Mounting my own skis, Should I do it?

[pchewn]

The screw head takes a #3 Pozidriv bit...but a #3 Phillips works if one is careful. Note the line between each of the 4 slots in the screw head...that identifies it as Pozidriv, not Phillips.

I don't recommend a #3 Phillips driver to be used on ski binding screws.... It's a recipe to really mess up the screw head. Use the Pozidriv bit and get the proper fit of screw head to driver bit.

See here: https://www.pugski.com/threads/pozi-drive-bit-or-screwdriver.10510/post-257008

 

[Noodler]

Using masking tape on a bit as a "stop" is a recipe for a disaster for skis that have a titanal layer on the top of the layup. Some of these sheets are thick enough that it takes some serious downward force to get through the layer. Enough force that layers of masking tape would be meaningless. Don't ask me how I know...

 

[crgildart]

^^^Ya, and better hope the drill stops spinning quickly. Those bits are designed to pull down like a screw when spinning. Trying to stop when the tape line is reached is a lot easier said than done. At least put a wood block on the bit if you can't get a proper bit.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Using masking tape on a bit as a "stop" is a recipe for a disaster for skis that have a titanal layer on the top of the layup. Some of these sheets are thick enough that it takes some serious downward force to get through the layer. Enough force that layers of masking tape would be meaningless. Don't ask me how I know...

If you need that much pressure to to get through “Titanal” (the fancy for for aluminum similar to the 7000 series aluminum) you need new drill bits or maybe the drill that turns in the right direction .

 

[Noodler]

If you need that much pressure to to get through “Titanal” (the fancy for for aluminum similar to the 7000 series aluminum) you need new drill bits or maybe the drill that turns in the right direction .

Maybe you should hold your comments until you try drilling a "real" ski, like a Stockli Laser series. I love how people assume that I wouldn't think of such obvious things. You clearly still don't know me (given my thousands of posts between Epic and here).

 

[Eleeski]

I "liked" @oldschoolskier 's post before seeing the response. While I stand by my like of his post, I understand that things can go wrong. There are many mistakes one can make. Of course, the worst case of drilling through the ski just requires some epoxy and ptex - it does not a destroy a ski.

If you pay attention, mounting skis is not difficult. Mistakes do not guarantee ruining the ski.

There are many right ways to mount a ski. Sometimes we are just too uptight about things.

Eric

 

[dovski]

Maybe you should hold your comments until you try drilling a "real" ski, like a Stockli Laser series. I love how people assume that I wouldn't think of such obvious things. You clearly still don't know me (given my thousands of posts between Epic and here).

That’s a trick question, if you buy your Stockl

Maybe you should hold your comments until you try drilling a "real" ski, like a Stockli Laser series. I love how people assume that I wouldn't think of such obvious things. You clearly still don't know me (given my thousands of posts between Epic and here).

That's a trick question/scenario. If you buy your Stockli's from @SkiEssentials they mount them for free

 

[oldschoolskier]

Maybe you should hold your comments until you try drilling a "real" ski, like a Stockli Laser series. I love how people assume that I wouldn't think of such obvious things. You clearly still don't know me (given my thousands of posts between Epic and here).

Did you not notice the smiley with a wink????

Seriously I have mounted more than my fair share of real skis. Additionally for work drilled, deburred and tapped over a 1000 holes in high strength aluminum in an 8hr span this past week. Scheduled to do 3000 next week (more complex setup and different sizes that must be located with +/- 0.001 of each other so these will take a little longer). This past year in excess of 10k, I also design and build the fixtures to do so. For a particular drill size I generally get about 2-3000 holes before replacement is required because of the lubrication used).

So if its not drilling your drill bit is dull and/or clogged with smeared aluminum, its really that simple. Also add a touch of wax to the bit for lubrication prior to starting. If you are still having issues wax before every hole, final solution is that there are specific bits for aluminum that may help you. They do cost a bit more but are difficult to find.

Aluminum smears which is what cause the issues (this is why a lot of machinists hate working with it as they don’t control the smearing. Basically it becomes plastic and sticks to the cutting edge there by making it appear dull). I could recommend other cutting fluids fir aluminum but am concerned on the potential issues on the core.

 

[François Pugh]

Clearly there is a vast range of mechanical aptitude out there. Some people can do it with a hand drill, a magic marker, tape measure, centre punch, pilot drill bit, drill bit (sharp high quality drill bits) and some masking tape. Other's should not attempt it with a jig and a computer controlled drill press. If you have to ask, then I suggest you go get a pair of junk old straight skis, ones with metal layers, and test it out first.

 

[pchewn]

Just follow the simple 1st rules of Mechanical Engineering:

Measure it with a micrometer.
Mark it with chalk.
Cut it with a chainsaw.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Ah chainsaw, one of my favorite tools.

 

[crgildart]

I remember Tyrone Shoelaces/ron talking about what it was like to drill in to Atomic Speed skis, the 240cm ones.. Several layers of metal in them. He said he burned up several metal specific bits on that project. I'd be willing to bet he was pushing down on the drill with some elbow grease when trying to get those holes dug..

 

[Rod9301]

I need canting plates under my bc bindings, and i only trust one shop in the entire Tahoe area to do it right.

So yeah, i would do it myself

 

[mikes781]

@Noodler sorry for resurrecting this but I have 2020 Stockli Stormriders coming in and was considering mounting the bindings myself. Not so much to save money but more for the enjoyment. You mentioned not to ask about your hard lesson but I’m going there. Was it your Stormriders that you ran into an issue with and does that titanal topsheet present any challenges? I’ll be sure to punch, drill a pilot hole and use a proper bit. I also have a drill press. I’ve been reading up on how to do it but then saw this thread and it made me pause lol.

 

[SSSdave]

Interesting that the OP never later re-posted that tends to show he did it himself with an embarrassing result haha.

 

[James]

I remember Tyrone Shoelaces/ron talking about what it was like to drill in to Atomic Speed skis, the 240cm ones.. Several layers of metal in them. He said he burned up several metal specific bits on that project. I'd be willing to bet he was pushing down on the drill with some elbow grease when trying to get those holes dug..

That’s some rockin’ PPE.

Skis w/metal top sheet- nice to have a countersink, a hand one is fine. Gets rid of the little raised burr that can happen.

 

[KingGrump]

@Noodler sorry for resurrecting this but I have 2020 Stockli Stormriders coming in and was considering mounting the bindings myself. Not so much to save money but more for the enjoyment. You mentioned not to ask about your hard lesson but I’m going there. Was it your Stormriders that you ran into an issue with and does that titanal topsheet present any challenges? I’ll be sure to punch, drill a pilot hole and use a proper bit. I also have a drill press. I’ve been reading up on how to do it but then saw this thread and it made me pause lol.

Rather making a simple matter complicated. KISS.

One of these in the correct size - dependent upon your binding and ski.



A countersink like @James mentioned.



#12AB Tap.



Waterproof wood glue.



A decent #3 pozidrive screwdriver.



You are all set. If you have issues drilling through a thin piece of titanal (aluminum) then your drill bit is either dull or loaded.

Worth repeating - KISS.
It ain't rocket science.

 

[Doug Briggs]

@Noodler sorry for resurrecting this but I have 2020 Stockli Stormriders coming in and was considering mounting the bindings myself. Not so much to save money but more for the enjoyment. You mentioned not to ask about your hard lesson but I’m going there. Was it your Stormriders that you ran into an issue with and does that titanal topsheet present any challenges? I’ll be sure to punch, drill a pilot hole and use a proper bit. I also have a drill press. I’ve been reading up on how to do it but then saw this thread and it made me pause lol.

IIRC, @Noodler mentioned his problem when someone was discussing using tape as a 'stop' for the drill. When you punch through a layer of metal, the drill can penetrate faster and harder than a piece of tape can stop it. Tape is more a reference than an actual stop to paraphrase Captain Barbarossa:


If you are using a drill press, you will need to allow for the changing thickness of the ski to insure proper hole depth. Too deep a hole and you have obvious issues and not so obvious ones. You can penetrate the p-tex. It is not unusual for an un-stopped bit to go clear through the p-tex. Not deep enough and may cause the screw to push the material towards the base which can cause a raised area (pimple) of the p-tex and possibly delaminate the ski.

It is best to use a ski specific bit that has the stop built in. The stop may have a slight counter to it to counter sink the hole a touch; at the least it will remove any material that is in excess of the actual topsheet. Countersinking isn't usually essential in binding mounts, but removing material above the top sheet is. A file, metal scraper and sandpaper can be effective for that.

Are you mounting traditional alpine bindings? Tele? AT Frame? Pin (non-frame AT)? They all have their idiosyncrasies. A mm of variance in a pin or frame binding can cause the binding/boot or frame/plate interface respectively to fail.

 

[mikes781]

Thanks @Doug Briggs! I’ll be mounting traditional alpine bindings, Head Attack2 13 gw’s. I was planning on waiting until the skis arrived to see what bit is recommended, Didn’t realize that they had stops built it.

 

[Doug Briggs]

Thanks @Doug Briggs! I’ll be mounting traditional alpine bindings, Head Attack2 13 gw’s. I was planning on waiting until the skis arrived to see what bit is recommended, Didn’t realize that they had stops built it.

You are welcome.

Bits come in two diameters: 4.1 mm for metal topsheets, 3.5 or 3.6 mm for non-metal. You only have to tap metal topsheets, but where I work, we tap all holes as this helps reduce volcano-ing: where the topsheet bulges up from being displaced by the screw.

Almost all adult skis recommend a 9 mm or 9.5 mm long bit. Junior skis are usually 7 mm or 7.5 mm. Some Kastle skis are thinner and require a shorter bit and shorter screws.

There is only one size tap for regular screws. I don't know the dimensions, but if you do tap, don't go more than three full revolutions. Doing more revs risks pimpling the base.