Mounting my own skis, Should I do it?

[Ogg]

I paid about $300 I think for the Jigarex, pivot plates and shipping. It’s expensive, but if you take your time, it’s hard to screw up a mount with it. Plus I live in the burbs of NYC - taking skis and bindings to a shop to be mounted when you didn’t buy them there is $80 to $100 per mount, so the Jigarex feels a bit more of a value here than it probably does elsewhere.

You don’t need a drill press. I never used a drill press free hand mounting either and never ran into a problem. The Jigarex though has bushings on the plates to keep the drill bit vertical.

I just saw a used one that was posted a couple of days ago on TGR with 3 plates for $200. It sold quickly but I wouldn't be surprised if you watched their classifieds for a few weeks another one would pop up. It's a specialty tool so you're going to pay a premium but I've paid over $100 for a router bit I needed to use for a total of half an hour on numerous occasions.

 

[surfandski]

It's really not difficult at all if you are even remotely mechanical. I've mounted all of my family's bindings (maybe 20 or so) with paper templates and never had any issue at all. I use calipers and measure several times from all sides to make sure they are centered. CalG is right about punching the hole locations as I had bits walk on me the first time I tried. If you don't have a punch, you can get by with a screw but you may pinch your fingers so spend a few bucks and get a punch. Are my holes 100% perfect compared to a jig, no but I've never had one off more than a mm or 2 and doubt anyone here could tell if one hole was off by that amount when skiing. For the first dozen I didn't even use a collared bit but just wrapped duct tape around a regular bit at the depth I wanted (use those calipers again) and it worked fine but it's such cheap insurance to spend a little money on the right bit. If I lived out West I may not bother but we don't have many shops in Florida and I at least know that if I do it, I'm not stoned and I care more than the shop tech about the end result so mine may only be 99% perfect but they'll never be way off.

 

[Alexzn]

I mounted my own bindings before. These days I only mount to pre-drilled plates myself. Paying $40 to a good shop with a jig seems like a no-brainer in all other cases.

 

[jmeb]

I've personally seen plenty of messed up (mis-aligned or mis-centered) mounts come out of shops, jigs aren't pure magic and they can and do wear out. I've also seen a friend blow a mount on his skis after too many brews. With a shop, you've got recourse. With yourself, you don't. It comes down to who you want to trust.

I've done dozens of successful mounts with templates, patience, a beer, and ski films on. It's a nice ritual. The only fuck up was the one time I put an extra hole in an STH heel that was a 4-screw rather than the beefier 5-screw model. One non-impactful extra hole in 50+ skis is acceptable to me. May not be for you.


But for goodness sake, get them tested by a shop for release characteristics. It's like $10, takes 2 min and ensures you're good to go. That is something you can't do at home unless you happen to have a very equipped ski shop (then you wouldn't be asking this question.)

 

[jmeb]

Templates are not good enough, you actually want a custom jig made for that specific binding otherwise you will never get the correct mount.

This is simply not true. Tech bindings require much more accurate mounts than alpine bindings and regularly don't even have jigs made for many models. A paper template in careful hands can create just as accurate a mount.

 

[oldschoolskier]

Well.....can’t screw up with a jig. Look up the threads where the shop has messed up that it happens more often than one thinks. All the jig does is shorten the time required to locate the holes, the same care must be take be it jig or not.

its really about the skill and care of the individual doing the work. And here a litlle skill and a lot of care is what matters.

 

[Josh Matta]

This is simply not true. Tech bindings require much more accurate mounts than alpine bindings and regularly don't even have jigs made for many models. A paper template in careful hands can create just as accurate a mount.

I base my binding buying habits on whether or not their are jigarex plates for the binding.

one thing about the jigarex is it can sometimes be off center by a mm or two, its an easy fix with shims if you looking for it.

IMO the best thing about jigarex is I can remount and do thing basically in 30 minutes meaning I dont have to deal with shop wait times. I can also do things like machine inserts with out paying others to do it.

 

[Scruffy]

I mounted my own bindings before. These days I only mount to pre-drilled plates myself. Paying $40 to a good shop with a jig seems like a no-brainer in all other cases.

$40 is very reasonable. Shops around here charge 3Xs that. esp. if you don't buy the skis and bindings from them. Not that I'm saying money should be a factor in your decision to do your mounts. If in doubt, have the shop do it. If you trust yourself and have the skills it's really not that hard to get it right.

 

[crgildart]

why wouldnt you use stepped drill bits?

Drill Bits for Mounting

The original inserts for skis, made in america and the best option for getting the most out of your skis and bindings. We also offer Jigarex and any tools you could need for traditional mounts as well.

www.bindingfreedom.com

Why wouldn't you use a jig?? Because they don't have one. Why wouldn't they take them to a good shop? Because they don't have one.. Try to keep up Josh.

Anyway, you can use little wood blocks to make any bit stepped and stop at any depth.. Learned how to do that working as a cabinet maker for a few years in my 20s.

 

[Uncle-A]

why wouldnt you use stepped drill bits?

Drill Bits for Mounting

The original inserts for skis, made in america and the best option for getting the most out of your skis and bindings. We also offer Jigarex and any tools you could need for traditional mounts as well.

www.bindingfreedom.com

The drill bit in the photo doesn't look like any bit I ever used when mounting, the bits with stops never had any grooves in the upper part of the shaft. The one in that photo looks like the bit used when drilling a pocket joint hole from Kreg with their jig I have one out in my shop/garage. I would never use a aggressive bit like that for skis.

 

[Ogg]

I was thinking of these. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-P...VkZ-fCh0WmgRLEAQYASABEgKfRPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[CalG]

Vix bits work OK

I use these because I have a bunch of them ;-)

Drill Stops | Aircraft Spruce

Drill Stops Lock on drill with set screw. Regulate hole depth, cushion the - break through. Eliminate surface marks and reduce drill breakage.

www.aircraftspruce.com

 

[pais alto]

The drill bit in the photo doesn't look like any bit I ever used when mounting, the bits with stops never had any grooves in the upper part of the shaft. The one in that photo looks like the bit used when drilling a pocket joint hole from Kreg with their jig I have one out in my shop/garage. I would never use a aggressive bit like that for skis.

I’ve used bits exactly like that, in 3.5x9mm and 4.1x9mm, for years on many dozens of mounts, first in a shop and then in my home mounts. Both slidewright.com and tognar.com sell that type of bits for drilling holes for mounting bindings. The groove on the upper part helps with countersinking.

I’m pretty confident they’re commonly used in many shops.

 

[mdf]

I have the same bits.
You drill with the small part and just barely kiss the topsheet with the large part to guard against mushrooming.
I did put tape on the tap for depth.
Plugs for previous holes, plastic usually but wood if drilling nearby.
The blue fixture is for vertical holes -- so far I've always had a drill press available and haven't used the fixture.

I use a micrometer caliper as a square to bring the locations of the edges up to the top, so I can find the true edge-to-edge center.

 

[jmeb]

I base my binding buying habits on whether or not their are jigarex plates for the binding.

Would sadly take out a lot of great lightweight options like G3s and ATKs.

The drill bit in the photo doesn't look like any bit I ever used when mounting, the bits with stops never had any grooves in the upper part of the shaft. The one in that photo looks like the bit used when drilling a pocket joint hole from Kreg with their jig I have one out in my shop/garage. I would never use a aggressive bit like that for skis.

My bits have the upper groove. Better to have them then not in my experience as they act as an automatic countersink which saves a step.

 

[Crank]

I've done most of my own through the years. Sometimes used a template, sometimes not.

Tape on drill bit for a stop guide and you won't drill through if you are paying attention. All the tools you really need are a drill and a screwdriver.

IMO, if you can drill a hole where you want it and how deep you want it then you can mount bindings.

 

[CalG]

I have the same bits.
You drill with the small part and just barely kiss the topsheet with the large part to guard against mushrooming.
I did put tape on the tap for depth.
Plugs for previous holes, plastic usually but wood if drilling nearby.
The blue fixture is for vertical holes -- so far I've always had a drill press available and haven't used the fixture.

I use a micrometer caliper as a square to bring the locations of the edges up to the top, so I can find the true edge-to-edge center.
View attachment 87374

What is a "micrometer caliper"?

Pick one

 

[mdf]

What is a "micrometer caliper"?

View attachment 87384

View attachment 87385
Pick one

The second thing. There is probably a better name for it. I had a heck of a time explaining what I wanted when I bought one.

 

[oldschoolskier]

I use masking tape as a depth stop. Cheap quick and easy.

Come on, mounting bindings is not like setting up the airlock on a spacecraft or is it (for some).

I’ll bet that @Jacques mounts bindings wearing a onesie while eating poutine and doing 360’s.

Merry Christmas @Jacques haven’t had a good chance to get a fun dig in.

 

[Henry]

If one is handy with tools and works carefully, it's easy to correctly mount the bindings. I do all my own. If you don't have a template, make one. Test mount the bindings on a 2x4, check the boot fit, especially the correct forward pressure of the heel binding, then make your cardboard template. The 2x4 may end up looking like Swiss cheese, but that's what it's for. The problem with holding the bindings against the skis to mark the holes is that some ski top sheets are so slick that it's too easy for the binding to slide off center.

Make the template with the boot in the binding on the 2x4 so you can mark the boot's sole center mark on the template. Mark the template with a longitudinal center line. Line the template up on the ski (get the direction right!), centered and over the ski's mark for the boot center mark. Tape or clamp the template in place. Pin prick or center punch the hole locations. For a child's ski use a 3.5 mm bit and drill 7 mm deep. For an adult ski without metal, use a 3.6 mm bit 9 mm deep. Use 4.1 mm x 9 mm deep for a ski with metal. You can find the fractional or number equivalent to these drill bit sizes. The 4.1 is very close to a #20 bit. The 3.6 is close to a 9/64. I give the hole a light countersink. Metal should be tapped with a #12AB tap. It's a good idea to also tap fiberglass, but that's not often done. A drop of waterproof yellow carpenter's glue seals the hole. The screw head takes a #3 Pozidriv bit...but a #3 Phillips works if one is careful. Note the line between each of the 4 slots in the screw head...that identifies it as Pozidriv, not Phillips.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/drillsizeconvert.html