Gear Mounting Bindings

[Mister Mann]

I've never mounted bindings before, but would like to try. I'm not especially handy, but not a total klutz. Is mounting relatively straightforward, or should I just bring it to a shop? Ski shops around here don't really sell or work with AT gear.

I'm awaiting my Fritschi Tecton bindings, which I plan to mount on my Salomon Q98s which currently have an alpine binding mounted. Are there any good how-to posts or videos you could share? Any specific, non-standard tools or bits or other equipment I need?

 

[headybrew]

First you need to build a heated pole barn for your drill press, I heard it's pretty easy after that.

 

[Josh Matta]

First you need to build a heated pole barn for your drill press, I heard it's pretty easy after that.

Drill press? umm really.

 

[jmeb]

I've never mounted bindings before, but would like to try. I'm not especially handy, but not a total klutz. Is mounting relatively straightforward, or should I just bring it to a shop? Ski shops around here don't really sell or work with AT gear.

I'm awaiting my Fritschi Tecton bindings, which I plan to mount on my Salomon Q98s which currently have an alpine binding mounted. Are there any good how-to posts or videos you could share? Any specific, non-standard tools or bits or other equipment I need?

1. In general, AT binding mounts are less friendly to slight imperfections than alpine mounts. So in ideal world, you'd learn to alpine mount first, then try your hand at AT. You definitely want to do a practice mount on a 2x4 or old skis. And figure out a system to ensure proper toe/heel alignment. G3's Zed mounting video is an example.
2. Proper mounting tools cost approximately as much as a mount. You need the specific bits (3.6mm for most, 4.1mm for those with a metal top sheet), a 12 AB tap, a drill guide (or drill press), waterproof wood glue, and a template. @SlideWright is a source for these -- and a great resource in general. Yes -- you can get away with a 4mm bit without a shoulder using some tape/cork etc as a stop. Yes you can not tap your holes since ski binding screws are self tapping. Yes you can not use a drill guide if you can drill a hole perfectly vertical. No I wouldn't recommend skipping any of them.
3. Mounting a set well w/o a jig is all about measuring carefully, marking accurately and precisely, and working methodically. It's not rocket science, but it does require patience.

This is the best thread on the internet related to mounting skis (in English) https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/232898-PSA-Mount-your-own-fucking-skis

 

[jmeb]

Oh, and never tell your friends you can mount skis. Else you'll have a never-ending pile of skis to mount, people who fail to get their bindings release checked, people who need skis mounted last second, and people who don't bring you enough good beer.

 

[JPM]

Which boot are you planning to use with your Tecton and what year is it? Have a shop mount them.

 

[JPM]

Have a looksee.

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.c...-pdfs/checked_compatibility boots_2017-18.pdf

 

[Analisa]

We've only mounted my old roommate's frame bindings ourselves since it's hard to mess those up. I go to the shop for all of my tech bindings, and even with touring being so popular in the Seattle metro area, techs still manage to make mistakes outside the margin of error (which, to the techs' credit, is much smaller than an alpine mount). I've seen a lot more issues with tech mounts than alpine, and since it's backcountry, it's a lot more inconvenient. Nothing like watching your partner constantly releasing out of his bindings, looking them over, digging for a screwdriver, adjusting some of the settings, and then just having to lock his toe piece in and cautiously-yet-quickly try to get down safely before the park gates closed.

Do the due diligence of learning what the process entails and what a correct mount looks like. Either you'll feel a little more confident about doing the mount yourself, or it won't take you 3 weeks to notice that the tech set the bindings for 2 different boot sizes (guilty). Either way, it pays off.

 

[Joel]

I have always mounted my bindings myself. The issue is you will not likely have a jig which makes things more precise and easier. I have always used a paper template. First thing to do after making or printing it is to make sure it really matches the binding. Then getting an accurate centerline down the ski. After that it's a matter of knowing where you want the binding to be. I've always just used a hand drill and a bit with a collar on it I can set to the right depth.

I've mounted four skis now with AT bindings and never had a problem.

I've gotten my templates from here

https://www.wildsnow.com

They have been correct and work well, again, compare to actual binding.

 

[pchewn]

You will need a Pozidriv screwdriver #3 like those shown in this thread: https://www.pugski.com/threads/pozi-drive-bit-or-screwdriver.10510/

 

[Primoz]

Mounting bindings is not such big deal as most of people imagine. I have mounted probably 1000s of skis until now when I was in my previous job (xc or alpine), but I admit until about month ago, I have never mounted Dynafit bindings. But as my new touring skis were waiting in basement and Dynafit bindings were sitting in box on shelf I had to do something about this. And I certainly didn't have slightest intention to take this stuff elsewhere, especially as noone of my friends had mounting jigs for Dynafit stuff. As I wanted to try first, I took some old plank, "draw ski" there and mount bindings there. First try was with paper template of internet and luckily I did that on wooden plank and not skis, as template was way off and heel was some 3 or 4cm to far back.

So after that I just used pen, meter and some patience and less then 10min later my skis were mounted

You don't really need any special tools to do this. Normal drill is good enough, but you need to be a bit careful not to go too deep (read: through the ski and base ). For size of drill it depends on skis and bindings, but if it says 4.1mm, I can guarantee 4mm will do just fine (same goes for 3.5mm instead of 3.6mm drill). Normal phillips screwdriver is good enough (ok in my case it was actually Torx T20), and instead of wood glue I have always used epoxy. After that, all you need is some patience, and maybe paper template which you can easily find on internet. But check first it's all good, especially when it comes to distance of heel from toe piece... in my case, and I have put it as it said, it was few cm off.

 

[Mister Mann]

Which boot are you planning to use with your Tecton and what year is it? Have a shop mount them.

La Sportiva Spectre. Says it's compatible with Tecton.

 

[Mister Mann]

Thanks, everyone. On the fence, but will likely wait until I'm in an area where there's a shop with experience with AT gear.

 

[JPM]

Thanks, everyone. On the fence, but will likely wait until I'm in an area where there's a shop with experience with AT gear.

Oh, forgot to mention, the pins on the Fritschi toes are adjustable, this is another another reason to have a knowledgeable shop mount the system. I have Techton's, Evo's and Vipec's on some of my skis and have had no issues with the systems other than stepping into the Vipec toe on occasion. You may also want to pick up a can of silicone and lubricate the ski-brake plate. If you haven't read this, give it a read and hope you have fun with the new gear.

https://www.wildsnow.com/23632/tecton-test-bindings-breakage/

 

[pais alto]

Oh, and never tell your friends you can mount skis. Else you'll have a never-ending pile of skis to mount, people who fail to get their bindings release checked, people who need skis mounted last second, and people who don't bring you enough good beer.

Quoted for truth. jmeb’s advice and link above are excellent.

OP, good plan to take ‘em to a shop. I worked in a shop, mount all my own bindings (and most of my friends’ it seems), and I’m here to say that mounting pin bindings is not the place to start.

 

[Lauren]

It's not rocket science...but it takes time, patience and trust in yourself. And if you don't do it often... x2 on all of these things. I'd practice a lot and get comfortable with the process with old skis or wood boards prior to drilling into my new skis.

I'd throw in the comment that if you mess up, the cost is on you. If a shop messes up (and they're a good shop), they'll help you out and replace the ski if it's that bad.