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Mountain biking 2019

AmyPJ

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My ONLY gripe with the Top Fuel is the two-position remote. Either open, or fully locked.

Now that my racing days are over, I find I ride a lot in the sort-of-firm middle position in the rear, especially when climbing. Conversely, it's great in the front. I either run the fork open or locked, finding the middle position relatively useless.

I may be looking into a "regular" rear shock, but will wait awhile longer, in case it turns out that I come around to loving it.
Keep me posted on your thoughts. I use the middle setting on my shock primarily also. The Fuel EX went on its maiden voyage this morning. It's a LOT more bike. The feedback was it's not as quick to maneuver but made the rock gardens WAY smoother. Makes sense. He climbed a lot slower than he has been, but it's hard to say if it was the bike or the 28 degree temperature when we started. :eek: I'll be really tempted to swap the tires out for 2.4s from the get-go.

Saw a bull moose all of a few feet off the trail munching on scrub oak. He couldn't have cared less that we were there. We've seen moose on every ride lately. Very cool but also can be scary!
 

Josh Matta

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My guess its extremely shock valving and lack of spacer in what is a very active suspension on the newest Fuel Ex. Spacers on mid travel bike can make a pedal better with out giving up much in "chunk"
 

Tom K.

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Keep me posted on your thoughts. I use the middle setting on my shock primarily also. The Fuel EX went on its maiden voyage this morning. It's a LOT more bike. The feedback was it's not as quick to maneuver but made the rock gardens WAY smoother. Makes sense. He climbed a lot slower than he has been, but it's hard to say if it was the bike or the 28 degree temperature when we started. :eek: I'll be really tempted to swap the tires out for 2.4s from the get-go.

It's definitely more bike now, sitting between the old FEX and the Slash, so perfect for me, since I've got a Top Fuel. But.....I'm not sure the new version will be a better OBQ for most people, unless you ride more at the rugged end of things.

You'll change the feel of the bike markedly if you swap the stock Line Carbon wheels for Kovee Pro 30s, and the 2.6s for 2.4s, and maybe even the Fox 36 for a 34. However, once you do all that, just buying a Top Fuel might be better (and certainly simpler).

And don't get me started on PB reviews, at least by the "Two Mikes". They ride at near-pro levels, and primarily up long climbs, then down chunky plunges. So I don't discount their reviews, but it's good to know from where they come. I think their other main reviewer, Daniel Sapp, provides a bit better review for the typical rider.
 

Josh Matta

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My issue with average "rider" reviews not that Dan is really one, is that most people are unable to express what they are feeling or know how to fix the negatives they are feeling and instead wrongfully blame themselves or the "new" piece of equipment.

Most people never touch their suspension besides setting factory sag,(which is not always right for everyone), let alone actually tune rebound knobs, LSC, HSC, and air volume. Not to mention changing oil weight and literally changing shim stack where applicable.

Basically I only linked to the review because it seems to jive with Amy is feeling and also how to fix it.......
 

AmyPJ

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My guess its extremely shock valving and lack of spacer in what is a very active suspension on the newest Fuel Ex. Spacers on mid travel bike can make a pedal better with out giving up much in "chunk"
So you're saying that there are no spacers in the 36? Because I ended up taking a spacer OUT of the 34.

And Tom, I most definitely will swap the tires. The wheels, I doubt I'll go to that hassle or expense. I am kind of bummed they made this bike so much burlier. BUT I need to get out and ride it before I pass too much judgement.

ETA I haven't ridden it yet, just the man. It was way more plush in the rock gardens, but felt slow to maneuver. Two thumbs up for the Shimano XT brakes, however.
 

Josh Matta

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I was mostly talking about spacers in the rear shock....
 

AmyPJ

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I was mostly talking about spacers in the rear shock....
I started to gather that after reading the comments under their reviews. I'm not sure I'm savvy enough, heavy enough, or crazy enough to notice the difference. ;)
@utskier won't care--he doesn't tinker with stuff and will just go ride like he always does.
 

Tom K.

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I started to gather that after reading the comments under their reviews. I'm not sure I'm savvy enough, heavy enough, or crazy enough to notice the difference. ;)

If you set sag where you like it, and don't use nearly full travel in the most extreme/chunky/rugged conditions you typically ride, either remove the rear shock volume reducer or install a smaller one, so that you can maintain good pedaling efficiency AND reap the plush benefits of using full travel.

On the 2018 version, this can be done with the shock still mounted on the bike, and takes maybe 10 minutes the first time (videos on how-to abound).
 
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AmyPJ

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If you set sag where you like it, and don't use nearly full travel in the most extreme/chunky/rugged conditions you typically ride, either remove the rear shock volume reducer or install a smaller one, so that you can maintain good pedaling efficiency AND reap the plush benefits of using full travel.

On the 2018 version, this can be done with the shock still mounted on the bike, and takes maybe 10 minutes the first time (videos on how-to abound).
If I set it that way, I use about 80% of the travel. BUT I run it at about 10psi lower than the "recommendation" is. Otherwise, it feels too firm/harsh.
I did remove one of the spacers on the fork for the same reason. Curious to see how it feels on the Fox 36. I'm beginning to wonder if I'm going to be "overbiked" on the new Fuel.
 

Tony S

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@Wending catches some deep woods air.
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AmyPJ

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If you set sag where you like it, and don't use nearly full travel in the most extreme/chunky/rugged conditions you typically ride, either remove the rear shock volume reducer or install a smaller one, so that you can maintain good pedaling efficiency AND reap the plush benefits of using full travel.

On the 2018 version, this can be done with the shock still mounted on the bike, and takes maybe 10 minutes the first time (videos on how-to abound).
Update on the new bike after a much longer ride yesterday with a lot of chunky downhill and climbing. Two BIG thumbs up! Can't wait to get mine!
 

Josh Matta

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Rode a new to me place on saturday, Cochrans. Stupid fun enduroesque trails lots of climbing in fact its by far the most climbing per mile I have ever seen. Even make @AmyPJ rides look flat. I was with my friends who just started riding this summer so I even tried to keep climbing down. Still 1600 feet in 6.68 miles...

https://www.strava.com/activities/2783780643

If your in this area and looking for a great place to check out I would recommend. The trails are really fun, and have nothing annoying or boring about them.

Sunday I rode my local haunt which is now leaves on top leaves, time to ride them in and create the loam for next year.

 

AmyPJ

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Love the sound of crunchy fall leaves. We've got lots of that going on here, too. Climbing=good prep for ski season!
 

nay

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I am kind of bummed they made this bike so much burlier.

This is the trend everywhere: slacker, steeper seat angles, and more “enduro” in components.

As somebody who is riding a 130mm bike with a Fox 34 in mostly technical terrain and who went 2.4 to 2.6 on said short travel bike, I have mixed feelings about trading off quickness for letting the bike sort out the terrain even though most chunky lines require the latter anyway.

I think we tend to get used to climbing what we ride and even so called “average” riders should be more focused on downhill performance for their preferred trails. Unless you are timing your climbs.

Which means the enduro design trend is in the right direction for most people with shorter travel bikes designed to be lighter and more poppy than their longer travel counterparts.
 

nay

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Rode Palmer Park yesterday. A lot of classic local canyon rim trail in here that is really technical as you ride the sandstone along the rim or drop what are inevitably washes back down.

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Techy wash drop. There is good trail building in here to prevent excess erosion.

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Nice views of Pikes Peak.

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Black diamond means it. Plenty of double black in here.

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A nice thing about the level of tech in here is the rock is mostly smooth, so seemingly gnarly lines have a bit less “just drop it” risk as they will generally roll if you commit, while being careful that some spots require air or you will drop the front too much over ledges despite good trail building to provide some rollout angle.

Fun stuff, I need to spend more time here.
 
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AmyPJ

Skiing the powder
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This is the trend everywhere: slacker, steeper seat angles, and more “enduro” in components.

As somebody who is riding a 130mm bike with a Fox 34 in mostly technical terrain and who went 2.4 to 2.6 on said short travel bike, I have mixed feelings about trading off quickness for letting the bike sort out the terrain even though most chunky lines require the latter anyway.

I think we tend to get used to climbing what we ride and even so called “average” riders should be more focused on downhill performance for their preferred trails. Unless you are timing your climbs.

Which means the enduro design trend is in the right direction for most people with shorter travel bikes designed to be lighter and more poppy than their longer travel counterparts.
It's funny you say that, because that's kind of where my mind has been going in the past few days. Climbing is climbing is climbing, and a slacker bike with big wheels should climb up and OVER crap even better. If I wanted to race seriously, I'd be on a bike that allows me to climb faster. I DO need more confidence on the downhill and would like a smoother ride in the rock gardens, so this bike might be just the ticket. I did get mine built yesterday and rode it around the neighborhood to bounce on the suspension, etc. It bunny hops way easier than my previous bike. :D With flats. The Fox 36 is overkill for me-I dropped 10 lbs off the recommended psi and am still not using but 2/3 of the travel, so I think the spacers will be coming out. I am also sitting more over the bottom bracket, which feels REALLY good for power. Wanted to take it out on the trails today but am feeling crappy, so will have to do it tomorrow. And the XT brakes are sweet.

Hopefully riding the "shorter" travel Fox 34 on a 130mm fork for the past 3 summers will have given me some good skills to build off of.
Next question is whether or not to cut the bars down. The bars have more sweep and rise, so despite the bike actually having more reach than I'm used to, it actually felt shorter and I was able to drop my chest and bend my elbows. We'll see. Riding the streets really isn't a good test.
 
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Josh Matta

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@AmyPJ my suggestion is to try as low as PSI as possible with the current spacers in it. you will get better small bump compliance and it should have better mid stroke/bottom out. To each their own but on 140+ forks I would rather have super supple and compliant first 3-4 inches of travel with a pretty aggressive end stroke ramp up for pumping and jumping.

one thing to note is that modern enduro Geometery climb better regardless of rear travel than even a trail/enduro bike from 4-5 years ago, and light years better than anything prior the 2013ish........... where they lack imo is nimbleness while seated pedaling, which is only really an issue on flatter rolling terrain you may find in flatter locales. I am not sure I would dig a modern bike riding many places I used to ride in pittsburgh.

Also some more truth. Learning to ride clipless, while make your climbing better than going from Fuel Ex to a new Fuel or top fuel. In fact depending on the climbing some of the real short travel rigs/hardtail actually lag behind more trail 110/120+ rig on some chunky climbs.

Talking about short travel enduro geo rigs. Ever since I got my Honzo and then test rode a Kona Process 111 I have wanted a short travel shedder, and Ill be honest I feel most people who lives with tons of elevation change should just buy a long travel rig and be done with it, I personally like short travel rigs because most of my riding with my wife is slightly to chunky for my hardtail, and my 160/140 trance is kind of overkill(but sometime fun for "jib" lines. This just released bike is ticking most of the boxes. My only hope is that it has ISCG05 tabs because modern low BB bike tend to bash chainrings around me. IMO short travel is just more pumpable.


hoping my local shop gets some in stock so I can demo the M and L and find out whats better for me. Plus I either buy the complete 2 or buy a frame. Both are my favorite colors.
 

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