I haven't had it lately. Hugh is a good winemaker. But I've always felt that Sauv Blanc (along with Viognier and grenache blanc) are just not suited to most parts of California. People assume because it still has good acidity at 27 brix that "the riper the better". But it loses balance and character at those alcohol levels. Where its classically grown the best is continental and mild (Sancerre, for example). Viognier is at its best in the warmer and drier Rhone, but then they pick it at what California winemakers think of as "unripe". Same w/ grenache blanc.Talking of Dry Creek, the shop had a Quivira Sauvignon Blanc open for tasting. I have to admit that is a style I just don't get. Sure it's smoky and sure it has cat pee aroma, but there's no citrus and barely any acid
Best Sauv Blanc I know of around here comes from Santa Rosa Junior College's Shone Farm. Its an old "Musque" clone that has no officially recognized identity. Last I heard most of it goes into a large, mid-market "Sonoma County" blend that loses much of its character. Best tasting eating grape I've ever had too (if you don't mind the seeds).
EDIT: I should add that Shone Farm is in one of the coldest, foggiest parts of the Russian River Valley. Not someplace where California winemakers typically plant SB. Lake County, Napa, Dry Creek, Alexander Valley, those are some of the other places its commonly planted. Although I should add that Tim Bell at Dry Creek Vineyard also makes a real fun "Fume Blanc" after Robert Mondavi's lead that is partially barrel fermented. SB is so well suited to barrel fermentation, and so rarely done here.
Albarino is the counterpoint. When Markus Bokisch planted it in Lodi, everybody thought he was crazy. But its every bit as good there as from Rias Baixas, even at higher sugar/ripeness levels.
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