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David

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So would I really be better off taking a chunk of my home wax and rubbing it on and then using a cork when travel or just need 1 more day?
 

cantunamunch

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Than using a paste?
For most of the scenarios I can picture, yes.

The immediate exception is a sudden warm spell at your destination, warm in the context of soaking rain or gloppy spring snow.

In difficult snow like that, make absolutely sure you scrape and brush everything off the bases, no matter what you are using.
 
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If OP was using Betamix at saturation levels, he wouldn't be having the problems he is.
I haven't had any problems. But I don't want to going forward. What's Betamix?
 

cantunamunch

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I haven't had any problems. But I don't want to going forward. What's Betamix?

Holmenkols mid-range training wax. It gets better the more you use it, staying slippy way beyond the nominal temp range.

It is not a budget wax, tho, and it won't stave off base burn in aggressive snow.
 

KingGrump

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So would I really be better off taking a chunk of my home wax and rubbing it on and then using a cork when travel or just need 1 more day?

The short answer to your question is "yes."
Beside cork, you can also use the SkiMD Pro Glide for a better looking finish.

The long answer is if you are only getting max 3 days out of a wax job. Your skis are not prep well enough.
Examine your base prep process and see where the holes are.

For mid winter snow, I usually get 5 to 7 days on a wax job. About 3 to 4 days in the spring.
 
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The short answer to your question is "yes."
Beside cork, you can also use the SkiMD Pro Glide for a better looking finish.

The long answer is if you are only getting max 3 days out of a wax job. Your skis are not prep well enough.
Examine your base prep process and see where the holes are.

For mid winter snow, I usually get 5 to 7 days on a wax job. About 3 to 4 days in the spring.

Okay the SkiMD Pro Glide looks really slick! If we have fresh soft snow I can get a couple weekends but with our man made icy snow only a couple days. If I have a day or 2 left on the skis I don't remove the remaining wax and redo. Depending on which skis I use, snow and timing this would work great.
 
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Okay the SkiMD Pro Glide looks really slick! If we have fresh soft snow I can get a couple weekends but with our man made icy snow only a couple days. If I have a day or 2 left on the skis I don't remove the remaining wax and redo. Depending on which skis I use, snow and timing this would work great.

I just watched the video instructions for the SkiMD Pro Glide and he uses a vise. Has anyone used it in a hotel room without a vise?
 

Jacques

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"If your skis change that much after a few runs that should tell you something about the quality of waxing you are doing."
Well there are specialty fluoros that are good for about 100 meters but it is a very good 100 meters.
The older I get, the more I just keep them saturated with Holmenkol Red and let them run.

I think you are taking about pure fluoro overlays. Fluorocarbon's
Most of us may use some fluoro waxes. Fluoro-Hydrocarbon's

A fluorinated hydorcarbon wax can last quite some time as they can penatrate the base material unlike a pure fluorocarbon.
 

Eleeski

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Has anyone (including a manufacturer) measured the frictional coefficient of various waxes? Where's the data to support the wax claims? Is the tune more important than the wax to the feel of the ski? And how much does skill trump wax?

People who stress over wax seem to complain more on those weird grabby days that affect EVERY ski - even properly waxed ones.

Eric
 

Jacques

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Okay the SkiMD Pro Glide looks really slick! If we have fresh soft snow I can get a couple weekends but with our man made icy snow only a couple days. If I have a day or 2 left on the skis I don't remove the remaining wax and redo. Depending on which skis I use, snow and timing this would work great.

For man made snow you need a harder wax than called for. One with graphite would be a must. A touch of fluoro would not hurt either. Just a touch though.
Man made snow is very aggressive (sharp) and usually contains minerals that are not present in natural snow.
 

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I'm told that when the guys from the Swix factory show up they bring some things that mere mortals cannot access.
This is more true in XC but they do have very short lived fluro overlays that get you from 0 to 30 like mad then wear off.
 

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Has anyone (including a manufacturer) measured the frictional coefficient of various waxes? Where's the data to support the wax claims? Is the tune more important than the wax to the feel of the ski? And how much does skill trump wax?

People who stress over wax seem to complain more on those weird grabby days that affect EVERY ski - even properly waxed ones.

Eric

The wax companies do a great deal of instrumented sled testing.
Waxing at the highest level involving several layers could never be figured out without testing.
When someone like "Tom from Dominator" posts I pay a lot of attention.
He was on the old Epic board and his now lost posts are the gold standard.
 

Jacques

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Has anyone (including a manufacturer) measured the frictional coefficient of various waxes? Where's the data to support the wax claims? Is the tune more important than the wax to the feel of the ski? And how much does skill trump wax?

People who stress over wax seem to complain more on those weird grabby days that affect EVERY ski - even properly waxed ones.

Eric

Yes, there comes a time when conditions will cause any ski to feel the "grab".
That said, when it happens I don't complain. I still out glide most all, then quit until the next day.
Obviously well tuned edges are always a good thing.
Base structure also plays a huge part in good glide for a given condition.
By nature all waxes from any company have different frictional qualities due to the hardness of the wax vs the snow condition.
And yes, skiing skill goes a long way assuming the rest is in order.

You don't need to wax your skis as long as you are happy and having fun.
For many of us not waxing is not an option. It's mandatory.
 

Jacques

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I'm told that when the guys from the Swix factory show up they bring some things that mere mortals cannot access.
This is more true in XC but they do have very short lived fluro overlays that get you from 0 to 30 like mad then wear off.

That is the nature of pure fluorocarbon as it stays at the surface of the base. These overlays are only good for the start of a race.
Because most of us are not racing, we don't use those.
 

Jacques

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So would I really be better off taking a chunk of my home wax and rubbing it on and then using a cork when travel or just need 1 more day?

Ditch the "H" word wax. Then any wax can be rubbed on. The ones that say rub or iron may be a bit better for rubbing on though.
Any rubbed on wax will only last for a short time. Buffing it with cork or anything else will help a little bit, but not too much.
Then you only need to rub it on again.
How many times can you do that and still have a good time is up to you.
 

Eleeski

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Aren't bases made from polyethylene? Hydroflouric acid, one of the strongest acids, is stored in polyethylene containers. How do waxes penetrate such an inert material? Or is this another myth?

The wax companies do a great deal of instrumented sled testing.
Waxing at the highest level involving several layers could never be figured out without testing.
When someone like "Tom from Dominator" posts I pay a lot of attention.
He was on the old Epic board and his now lost posts are the gold standard.

I don't debate that wax can make a difference to a racer. But if you are traveling to ski without your ski tech and race coach, will you notice? And will a top racer feel the difference or just note the times?

I certainly understand if someone like @Jacques is a wax connoisseur. Cool! And you will outglide me - even if we switched skis. I wonder if the OP will notice? I doubt I could.

Note that I am a competitive waterskier who builds and evaluates his own skis so I do have pretty good sense of what is on my feet. Wax is very hard to feel - including trying one waxed and one not. I guess I'm just a wax skeptic.

Eric
 

Jacques

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Aren't bases made from polyethylene? Hydroflouric acid, one of the strongest acids, is stored in polyethylene containers. How do waxes penetrate such an inert material? Or is this another myth?



I don't debate that wax can make a difference to a racer. But if you are traveling to ski without your ski tech and race coach, will you notice? And will a top racer feel the difference or just note the times?

I certainly understand if someone like @Jacques is a wax connoisseur. Cool! And you will outglide me - even if we switched skis. I wonder if the OP will notice? I doubt I could.

Note that I am a competitive waterskier who builds and evaluates his own skis so I do have pretty good sense of what is on my feet. Wax is very hard to feel - including trying one waxed and one not. I guess I'm just a wax skeptic.

Eric

Ha ha! Eric, if we switched skis............then you would understand.
It 's like one can't really explain an acid trip, although many have tried. It's something one needs to experience.
Like Jimmy said "Have you ever been experienced? Will I have"
 

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