Long-Term Review: Head Raptor 140 RS

[Brian Finch]

What about the tractor AFD, I wonder how they match up.

I bet they would be fine; raises another question: what is stopping binding companies from certifying?

I for one was really supprised how the GripWalk “pad” almost misses the AFD..... it’s the front 2mm out of 20...

 

[markojp]

Thanks Marco for saying their not a real warm boot,,,,,,,,,,,, I can stop daydreaming about them now !!

Boot heaters.

 

[James]

How does the B3, that's the softer plug?, compare. Have a pair in the box.

 

[markojp]

Stiffer.

 

[James]

Stiffer.

So it's Raptor 140, B3, B2 in order from soft to stiff?

 

[markojp]

Yes. The plastic in the plug boots is much thicker. (The B5 isn't a true plug).

 

[Philpug]

OK, I had to do one more punch on the left styloid and now the boot is dialed. After a couple of days with the GripWalk soles and just walking around, I am liking them. I m still concerned with the compatability to all bindings, so when I go to ski test this year I will still bring along my regular soles to make sure I can try everything. I should know by the time I hit the snow and it is any easy switch over. The on snow is the one place I would like to have the GW's just because of the amount of walking that is done.

I am not sure if I posted earlier on but I did install the Thermic IC1200 heaters in these now. While it was not a real cold day, it was in the upper 20's, the boots stayed warmer than I recall my Lange/Boot Doc's woudl have. I am still inpressed with the Thermic's both for their warmth and efficiency in size. I did nto go with the @Jed Peters upside down mount on these, but just put the battery on the strap..and the inside part (5:00 on the left boot and 7:00 on the right) and had no issue of them getting in the way, because of Thermic's compact battery design.

 

[Captain Furious]

I'm wondering if I can take one of the bolts out of my Raptor RS to start the season with. I've been skiing these boots for 2 years now and I love them. However, the first couple days of the season are always really rough and I'm wondering if I lighten up the stiffness of the boot a bit if that will help early on in the season. I've never tried to reduce the stiffness of my boots early in the season as it's never occurred to me so I'm wondering if there's any benefit to that. It usually takes me about 6 or 8 days of skiing before I'm back in ski shape and skiing well.

Can I just remove the bolt and if so, will that loosen up or make the boot less stiff? Do I need to stick something in the open hole where the boat was? Thanks.

Bill

 

[Philpug]

I'm wondering if I can take one of the bolts out of my Raptor RS to start the season with. I've been skiing these boots for 2 years now and I love them. However, the first couple days of the season are always really rough and I'm wondering if I lighten up the stiffness of the boot a bit if that will help early on in the season. I've never tried to reduce the stiffness of my boots early in the season as it's never occurred to me so I'm wondering if there's any benefit to that. It usually takes me about 6 or 8 days of skiing before I'm back in ski shape and skiing well.

Can I just remove the bolt and if so, will that loosen up or make the boot less stiff? Do I need to stick something in the open hole where the boat was? Thanks.

Bill

Taking out one won't make much of a differece. but if you do, make sure there is at least one bolt in it thought..

 

[Captain Furious]

So, I only have 1 in now. Are u saying I should leave it as is at 130? I'm good with that if that's the case.

Question for springtime... In April, the boots are too soft and I'd like to bump it up to 140. How do I do that?

Thanks!

Bill

 

[James]

Leave the bottom bolt in. - softest. You can tape or squirt some silicone caulk in the hole to keep snow out. Or not bother.
Stiffest is bottom and top plus middle. Not sure middle matters that much, but if you want the max I guess.
Medium stiff is the bottom two holes.

 

[oldschoolskier]

If I recall correctly (from a previous posting somewhere), the reason a bolt is left in is not for stiffness but rebound. Without the last bolt in place the boots rebound is adversely reduced.

I’ll leave it to those in the business to better explain and remind reads of this.

 

[Philpug]

If I recall correctly (from a previous posting somewhere), the reason a bolt is left in is not for stiffness but rebound. Without the last bolt in place the boots rebound is adversely reduced.

I’ll leave it to those in the business to better explain and remind reads of this.

Combinded with you have three screws holding the cuff to the clog, think of a three legged stool and remove one of the legs.

 

[Captain Furious]

Combinded with you have three screws holding the cuff to the clog, think of a three legged stool and remove one of the legs.

Yikes! Thanks for all of the responses guys! I'm glad I asked first before taking an action that I'd later regret.

Bill

 

[James]

The other reason for leaving at least one in is it limits the forward pivot of the cuff. If you take all of them out the cuff can (in theory) pivot until it's stopped by hitting the clog in front. This could have you overflexing and tearing your achilles. That's the theory. The person I know that tore their achilles skiing had all bolts in. Some people ski alpine with free hinging tele or AT boots for the balance training.

 

[markojp]

The other reason for leaving at least one in is it limits the forward pivot of the cuff. If you take all of them out the cuff can (in theory) pivot until it's stopped by hitting the clog in front. This could have you overflexing and tearing your achilles. That's the theory. The person I know that tore their achilles skiing had all bolts in. Some people ski alpine with free hinging tele or AT boots for the balance training.

Had a friend fold his boot in a Lange RS 130 with the pins removed... Torn achilles. Don't remove all the pins from a boot. If you feel the need, cut the plastic or get a softer boot.

 

[markojp]

Boots are ready! Vibram lifters, 1 degree taken off the medial side of the left boot sole, etc... only thing left are boot heaters. Want to ski things first.

 

[James]

Had a friend fold his boot in a Lange RS 130 with the pins removed... Torn achilles. Don't remove all the pins from a boot. If you feel the need, cut the plastic or get a softer boot.

Not good. Yes I should have been clear. You need to have at least one bolt in the spine. If that's too stiff, start cutting olastic. Boot fitters do this all the time, so let them at it.

Also, Lange plugs and the RS boots are notorious for spine (cuff) screws loosening and falling out. I've had this happen even after being sure they were quite tight several days before. They really need Loktite or equivalent.

Boots are ready! Vibram lifters, 1 degree taken off the medial side of the boot sole, etc... only thing left are boot heaters. Want to ski things first.

Do you have a photo of these Vibram plates?

 

[Captain Furious]

Well, I don't want to cut the boot b/c by the end of December I'll be skiing great. I was just hoping to ease into the season with something a little softer I guess.

Bill

 

[markojp]

The kiddo did the heavy lifting for the shoot.