• For more information on how to avoid pop-up ads and still support SkiTalk click HERE.

Keep repairing 2002 Honda CRV vs buy new car now?

Philpug

Notorious P.U.G.
Admin
SkiTalk Tester
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
42,624
Location
Reno, eNVy
I would get a second opinion from your local guy before investing tht much and also what amout of time it will buy you. IMHO, I would not put $7500 into it...personally, my cut off would be 3500-4K...but only IF I was assured that it would buy me close to another year. $4K is still about 300/mo for a year which is still less that most car payments would be. I agree with others, 150K is not a lot for a CRV which are usually pretty bulletproof and have a reputation for longevity.
 
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
I would get a second opinion from your local guy before investing tht much and also what amout of time it will buy you. IMHO, I would not put $7500 into it...personally, my cut off would be 3500-4K...but only IF I was assured that it would buy me close to another year. $4K is still about 300/mo for a year which is still less that most car payments would be. I agree with others, 150K is not a lot for a CRV which are usually pretty bulletproof and have a reputation for longevity.
My dad and I were discussing this yesterday, and he was saying that for his 2002 Toyota Camry, his limit right now for repair costs vs buying a new car is about $2000. The difference is that he doesn't drive that car on long trips (they take my mother's car), and they could pay cash for a new car.

The car payments are what I'm trying to avoid. I'd like to save enough to be able to keep the payments to a minimum, without buying a used car. Since my daughter is just finishing college, I'll need at least six months to do this.

I am going to wait until I can get a quote from my old mechanic next week, but will start looking at new cars this weekend.

Thanks for the advice and thoughts here, all. It's great to get others' thoughts on this. ogsmile
 
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
Your first post lists $7441 in needed repairs.

Kelley Blue Book trade-in value for 2002 Honda CRV EX, 150K miles, gray exterior, standard equipment, Good condition, in Denver ... $1683

Same specs, but Excellent condition ... $2152

Fair condition ... $1371

If the vehicle dies on you, you will likely lose the majority of its trade-in value, have a towing bill, have a Lyft/Uber bill, and incur cost for a rental car.

Those numbers say you should replace it now.

However, you mentioned the cost of registration and insurance. Registration now vs next February is basically a wash, since it's a one-time charge. If you have annual personal property tax, you are looking at one additional year of that. Same with the higher insurance premiums. If the additional cost of those is greater than $7441, get all of the repairs done and Drive On. If the vehicle makes it past the one-year mark, you could break even, bearing in mind that it will depreciate a little more during the year. [That is not what I would do. But I don't like to gamble on vehicle reliability.]
I'm hoping I'll get a lower total repair cost with an independent mechanic. And I probably won't do everything on the list.

The funny thing is: I live in a college town and have, more than once, found a note on my windshield saying that I should call if I ever want to sell the CRV. So I think it makes sense to get it repaired if I can get it done for less. Especially if I can avoid car payments for 6 months to a year.

Luckily I have AAA Premium (or whatever the level with longer towing distance is called) and a sister who has an extra car, so I'm not spending extra money on transportation while my car is in the shop.
 

Philpug

Notorious P.U.G.
Admin
SkiTalk Tester
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
42,624
Location
Reno, eNVy
My dad and I were discussing this yesterday, and he was saying that for his 2002 Toyota Camry, his limit right now for repair costs vs buying a new car is about $2000. The difference is that he doesn't drive that car on long trips (they take my mother's car), and they could pay cash for a new car.

The car payments are what I'm trying to avoid. I'd like to save enough to be able to keep the payments to a minimum, without buying a used car. Since my daughter is just finishing college, I'll need at least six months to do this.

I am going to wait until I can get a quote from my old mechanic next week, but will start looking at new cars this weekend.

Thanks for the advice and thoughts here, all. It's great to get others' thoughts on this. ogsmile
Talk to your local repair guy and tell him you are trying to buy 6-12 months. This gives you time to shop and buy on your terms. You can keep an eye out for used and if something falls into your lap, you will be in a position to jump on it.

While it is there, have him give you a bill of health for the car which will make the car more sellable in that 6th-12th month so you can sell it privately with confidence and a clear conscience. It will be a good father-son/daughter pronect car.
 

tball

Unzipped
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
4,362
Location
Denver, CO
Luckily I have AAA Premium (or whatever the level with longer towing distance is called)
Awesome. I was just about to suggest exactly that.

I like your dad's $2000 limit. Also, consider certified pre-owned rather than new.
 

Philpug

Notorious P.U.G.
Admin
SkiTalk Tester
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
42,624
Location
Reno, eNVy
With the travel we do, I keep reminding myself we need to get AAA for the Yukon.
 

Snowfan

aka Eric Nelson
Skier
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Posts
1,459
Location
Here and there.
... I have been told I need a new catalytic converter, but if I use premium gas, the light doesn't usually go on, and the car passed California smog tests last February (the check engine light has been going on and off for at least 4 years). Replacing the catalytic converter at the dealer would be $3119.

A catalytic converter for your CRV at RockAuto...

lul.PNG

Any decent muffler shop will install it for 100 bucks max. They will keep your old one and sell it for 50 for the precious metals inside. The price you were quoted for a new catalytic convertor is atrocious. Highway robbery. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...4,exhaust+&+emission,catalytic+converter,5808
 
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
A catalytic converter for your CRV at RockAuto...

View attachment 69590
Any decent muffler shop will install it for 100 bucks max. They will keep your old one and sell it for 50 for the precious metals inside. The price you were quoted for a new catalytic convertor is atrocious. Highway robbery. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...4,exhaust+&+emission,catalytic+converter,5808
I hope so, though I'll likely not replace it unless I really have to. I haven't received a quote from my independent mechanic on the catalytic converter, but today he replaced the radiator fan motor and Ac condenser fan motor for $698 vs the $1245 the dealership quoted!

Thanks all for the solid advice.
 
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
Update:
Thanks everyone for your advice/opinions on what to do with this car. I just picked it up from my independent mechanic. I had the radiator and condenser fan motors replaced, drive belt replaced and suspension work done (struts and mounts and bearings, and alignment) for $2000. The mechanic remembered me from when I used to take my '88 VW Fox to him when he first opened his shop. I'm optimistic that this car will make it until next winter, when I'll buy a new car.
 

VickieH

Contrarian
Skier
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Posts
1,928
Location
Denver area
Great! Getting the car stable again gives you time to decide if you even want a new car, or if you'd rather get the remaining repairs done and roll on for a few more years.

I had a 2005 RAV4 that suited me perfectly. Except. It was front wheel drive. Had it been AWD, I'd probably still be driving it today.
 

Philpug

Notorious P.U.G.
Admin
SkiTalk Tester
Joined
Nov 1, 2015
Posts
42,624
Location
Reno, eNVy
Update:
Thanks everyone for your advice/opinions on what to do with this car. I just picked it up from my independent mechanic. I had the radiator and condenser fan motors replaced, drive belt replaced and suspension work done (struts and mounts and bearings, and alignment) for $2000. The mechanic remembered me from when I used to take my '88 VW Fox to him when he first opened his shop. I'm optimistic that this car will make it until next winter, when I'll buy a new car.
You should be able to get that $2k and then some in resale then you go to sell it..plus you bought another year of ownership. A win/win.
 
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
Curiously, this mechanic did not mention an oil leak in his recommended repairs. That, and the catalytic converter were the only things on the dealership list that I didn't have addressed.

It would be really nice if this car would last a few more years! I see quite a few first and second generation CRVs around town, so who knows. This one is AWD, and I love the cargo space. I can put my mountain and my road bike upright and side by side in the back (with front wheels off and back seats folded forward). My next car will likely be a little smaller for fuel efficiency.
 

François Pugh

Skiing the powder
Skier
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
7,617
Location
Great White North (Eastern side currently)
Curiously, this mechanic did not mention an oil leak in his recommended repairs. That, and the catalytic converter were the only things on the dealership list that I didn't have addressed.

It would be really nice if this car would last a few more years! I see quite a few first and second generation CRVs around town, so who knows. This one is AWD, and I love the cargo space. I can put my mountain and my road bike upright and side by side in the back (with front wheels off and back seats folded forward). My next car will likely be a little smaller for fuel efficiency.
Oil is cheap. Just keep an eye on the dipstick (not the idiot light) so you don't run out, and watch for big oil stains under the car which will embarrass you into fixing it long before it becomes a mechanical problem.
As to the converter, you were never sure it was a problem in the first place; worry about it when you notice a problem with no power being delivered by the engine when it should be delivered (as per your experience with the car).
 
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
Oil is cheap. Just keep an eye on the dipstick (not the idiot light) so you don't run out, and watch for big oil stains under the car which will embarrass you into fixing it long before it becomes a mechanical problem.
As to the converter, you were never sure it was a problem in the first place; worry about it when you notice a problem with no power being delivered by the engine when it should be delivered (as per your experience with the car).
I've never noticed any stains. I'm pretty bad about checking the oil level, but I'm good about getting oil changes. Hopefully it's a slow leak, if there is one.

I agree about the converter. That check engine light has been going on and off for years now, and even the dealership has told me it's not necessary to change the converter at this time. Usually if I fill up with premium gas, the engine light won't go on. But twice now since November, the light has gone on after an oil change. Coincidental?
 

François Pugh

Skiing the powder
Skier
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
7,617
Location
Great White North (Eastern side currently)
Borrow a code reader and read the code the next time the light comes on.
After an oil change you say?
Anecdotal story:
The check engine light came on in my car (2009 Pontiac Wave 5-door) on a 4 and 1/2 hour trip over night. The next morning the light was off, and the stealership service rep said they couldn't properly diagnose the reason for the code unless the code was active (light still on), but said it was most likely because my injectors needed cleaning. They charged $80 bucks for the diagnoses and $120 for the injector cleaner (probably $10 worth of solvent). On the way back home, you guessed it, the light comes back on. I read the stored (not active, but still there in the computer memory along with a bunch of other info) code with my code reader. Looked up the numbered code and found it meant "Lean burn". I was busy at work, and had a 3rd degree separated shoulder, so no time or desire to work on the car. Local stealership said they couldn't look at it until next Tuesday, by which time the light had gone off so I cancelled. Light comes on again, new appointment for a week later. Light goes off and I cancel (no point being charged another $80 to be told they can't diagnose without an active code).

Light on, light off, light on light off......Then I remembered the other local stealership that I had written off for getting the firing order wrong on my other car (Caprice wagon with 305 Chevy V8), was at least able to look at a car on short notice when a trouble light was on. After an hour waiting in their shop they came and told me my engine cooling radiator fan is burned out and that's what the code said. Sure enough my engine cooling fan was burnt out, lots of burnt wiring smell, fan not working. They estimated about $560 IIRC to fix it. I said no thanks; it's cold enough outside for me not to need a fan yet. Got home and checked the codes. I had checked it every other time the light had come on and it always said the same thing, but hadn't checked the code that morning. Bad news, the Stealership had erased all the codes, including the half dozen times the lean burn was on.

A month later with my shoulder feeling a bit better, I replaced the radiator fan with my daughters help, and thoroughly inspected the car. The plastic/rubber air intake hose between the air filter and the intake manifold had a couple of big holes deep in the pleats. Apparently the stealership may have just bent this hose every time they checked or changed the air filter instead of disconnecting the hose clamp. The way the system works is that air leaving the air filter box goes by a mass air flow sensor that tells the computer how much air is coming so it can tell the fuel injection how much fuel to give it. The oxygen sensors in the exhaust then tell the computer if it needs to make a correction (too much oxygen in exhaust means too much air for amount of fuel injected). This correction is called trim. If the trim is more than something like 25% then the light comes on. Well all this air was coming through the holes and not being measured by the mass air flow sensor, causing the lean burn.

Not one of the three stealership mechanics who inspected the car for "lean burn" thought to look for a hole allowing extra air to enter the engine. :nono: At least the first two didn't "discover" an unrelated problem and erase my codes.

Just one of the many reasons this ex GM fan will never buy another GM.
 
Last edited:
Thread Starter
TS
luliski

luliski

Making fresh tracks
Skier
SkiTalk Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2017
Posts
2,557
Location
California
^^^At least you understand something about cars. I would like to learn more, but I can't learn it by reading.Sometimes I can understand what the mechanics are saying, but not always. At the Honda dealership, the service advisors are hard to follow (sometimes I'm not sure they understand the mechanics. I would have to learn by doing, which I don't think is going to happen.
 

Ogg

Skiing the powder
Skier
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Posts
3,484
Location
Long Island, NY
Borrow a code reader and read the code the next time the light comes on.
After an oil change you say?
Anecdotal story:
The check engine light came on in my car (2009 Pontiac Wave 5-door) on a 4 and 1/2 hour trip over night. The next morning the light was off, and the stealership service rep said they couldn't properly diagnose the reason for the code unless the code was active (light still on), but said it was most likely because my injectors needed cleaning. They charged $80 bucks for the diagnoses and $120 for the injector cleaner (probably $10 worth of solvent). On the way back home, you guessed it, the light comes back on. I read the stored (not active, but still there in the computer memory along with a bunch of other info) code with my code reader. Looked up the numbered code and found it meant "Lean burn". I was busy at work, and had a 3rd degree separated shoulder, so no time or desire to work on the car. Local stealership said they couldn't look at it until next Tuesday, by which time the light had gone off so I cancelled. Light comes on again, new appointment for a week later. Light goes off and I cancel (no point being charged another $80 to be told they can't diagnose without an active code).

Light on, light off, light on light off......Then I remembered the other local stealership that I had written off for getting the firing order wrong on my other car (Caprice wagon with 305 Chevy V8), was at least able to look at a car on short notice when a trouble light was on. After an hour waiting in their shop they came and told me my engine cooling radiator fan is burned out and that's what the code said. Sure enough my engine cooling fan was burnt out, lots of burnt wiring smell, fan not working. They estimated about $560 IIRC to fix it. I said no thanks; it's cold enough outside for me not to need a fan yet. Got home and checked the codes. I had checked it every other time the light had come on and it always said the same thing, but hadn't checked the code that morning. Bad news, the Stealership had erased all the codes, including the half dozen times the lean burn was on.

A month later with my shoulder feeling a bit better, I replaced the radiator fan with my daughters help, and thoroughly inspected the car. The plastic/rubber air intake hose between the air filter and the intake manifold had a couple of big holes deep in the pleats. Apparently the stealership may have just bent this hose every time they checked or changed the air filter instead of disconnecting the hose clamp. The way the system works is that air leaving the air filter box goes by a mass air flow sensor that tells the computer how much air is coming so it can tell the fuel injection how much fuel to give it. The oxygen sensors in the exhaust then tell the computer if it needs to make a correction (too much oxygen in exhaust means too much air for amount of fuel injected). This correction is called trim. If the trim is more than something like 25% then the light comes on. Well all this air was coming through the holes and not being measured by the mass air flow sensor, causing the lean burn.

Not one of the three stealership mechanics who inspected the car for "lean burn" thought to look for a hole allowing extra air to enter the engine. :nono: At least the first two didn't "discover" an unrelated problem and erase my codes.

Just one of the many reasons this ex GM fan will never buy another GM.
I hate GM dealerships but every mechanic I know drives a GM truck because they're easy to fix and the problems are pretty consistent as opposed to Ford or Dodge/Ram where weird problems with electronics and major catastrophic failures are much more common. I'm convinced my mechanic is going to put his kids through college and buy a new house with money he makes fixing Ford 6.0 and 6.4 diesels that the dealer can't/won't.
 

scott43

So much better than a pro
Skier
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Posts
13,549
Location
Great White North
Just throwing it out there...codes aren't always an easy fix...some are very vague...it's just one diagnostic tool..
 

François Pugh

Skiing the powder
Skier
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Posts
7,617
Location
Great White North (Eastern side currently)
^^^At least you understand something about cars. I would like to learn more, but I can't learn it by reading.Sometimes I can understand what the mechanics are saying, but not always. At the Honda dealership, the service advisors are hard to follow (sometimes I'm not sure they understand the mechanics. I would have to learn by doing, which I don't think is going to happen.
I'm lucky that way. Despite having some experience with old junkers and no money to pay for mechanics and being no dummie, I bought a book that got me started when I was in graduate school. It was "Auto Repairs for Dummies", by Deanna Sclar. Probably not up to date on latest computer diagnostics, but as @scott43 points out, you have to know the basics first. I highly recommend it.
 

Sponsor

Staff online

  • Dwight
    Practitioner of skiing, solid and liquid
Top