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International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) Japan 2020 - Hokkaido Trip Report
- Thread starter Mattadvproject
- Start date
Thread Starter
TS
Jan 19th – Kokusai for BC Skiing and Education
Next up was a drive out to Sapporo Kokusai for some backcountry skiing and avalanche education. We arrived at the resort around 9am and the carparks were almost full. Ruh roh! We changed into our boots in the carpark and then walked up to the ticket counter. The line was huge! We were only wanting to buy a 1 lift ride ticket (1,400 JPY plus 500 JPY deposit, about $17 USD) but it took about 45 minutes of queueing to be able to purchase our lift tickets.
That’s the biggest queue I’ve ever seen in Kokusai. I think it was the combination of it being a Sunday, the fact that Kokusai has some of the best snow in the Sapporo/Otaru area and I believe they had some kind of promotion on. Anyway, we bought the tickets and were straight onto the gondola. Then we walked over to the gate and then headed out into the backcountry.
One of the guys in the group is normally snowboarding with us, but he has switched back to skiing and was touring for the first time. I walked him through the process of getting into tour mode and using his Shift bindings. It all came very naturally to him as he’s a splitboarder also. Then we did some work on using our probes to feel for layers in the snowpack as we started to tour.
It wasn’t long before we heard the ominous braaaping of snowmobiles, snowbikes and ATV’s (with tracks on) heading up the mountain behind us. Snowmobiling is growing in popularity in Japan and this is becoming a very popular zone on the weekends. Thankfully it’s much quieter mid-week. Up in the alpine, we could see plenty of high-marking lines in suspect areas and we stopped to discuss their significance. If the snowpack wasn’t releasing under the weight of a snowmobile under and on top of steep, 45 degree plus convex rollovers where they had been riding, then the snowpack had been gaining some strength recently. That was promising news.
We took our time, working on some VAV/AVA turns and efficient skinning technique. We made it to the top of the ridge before traversing left to an open spot where we could transition and also dig a pit. It’s amazing how different the zone looks with more than a meter less of snow. It’s much flatter and there are a lot more bushes around. It didn’t even look like the same zone anymore and it didn’t look like potential avalanche terrain anymore as it was less steep. We found a nice spot to dig a pit, in an open area a way above a slight wind-loaded roll.
Snow depth was around 2.7m, a decent amount. We dug down about 1.5m and practiced our strategic shoveling techniques in the process. We didn’t race to make our pit but after about 30 minutes or so of digging, we had a nice 2m wide, 1.5m deep platform with room for everyone to observe. First up I showed the group how to use a crystal card to identify different layers in the snowpack and then followed that with a hand-hardness test.
Thankfully we found a snowpack that was typically “right-side up”, that is soft on top and getting gradually harder down lower. There was an area of concern with a layer of small facets (tending to rounds) about 105cm’s down with a 4 finger (4F) hardness sandwiched between two large layers of pencil hardness snow. That was an area of the snowpack that we thought might be reactive.
Everyone took turns at identifying the different layers with the crystal cards and performing the hand hardness tests. Then it was time to do some stability tests to test these layers. Time was getting on a bit so we had to pick up the pace. I cut out the sides for a shovel shear test and apart from the new snow on top (top 45cm’s of recent snow), nothing broke easily.
Then we did several CT (Column) tests and had no results. That buried weak layer 80cm’s down didn’t move. That was good. Unfortunately, we were out of time for the ECT (Extended Column Test) so we quickly filled the pit back in and got ready to ski one at a time down the face. We felt confidence in the stability of the slope below us and the somewhat mellow angle. We enjoyed nice soft snow with about 30cm’s of fresh snow on a soft base in about 20 turns or so. We regrouped at a wooded shelf before starting the long traverse back to our initial ridge. We made it without having to put skins back on and only a couple of quick walks.
We were at the skier’s left side of the resort and re-joined a groomer and took that all the way back down. The groomer was really busy and way scarier than being out in the backcountry. There were a lot of beginners and out of control skiers and boarders to avoid. It was after 3pm when we arrived back at the lodge and we enjoyed a late lunch. Then we had a 45-minute drive back to the hotel in Otaru. That night we went out to the Otaru brewery and then a couple of doors down to our favorite indoor BBQ place where you order uncooked seafood or meats and then grill yourself over your own charcoal fire. That was really tasty!
Hiking up the ridge to our zone
Digging our pit
This is only the 3rd time in 4 years I've seen the ocean from Kokusai
Hand hardness testing of the layers in the snowpack by @UGASkiDawg
Beautiful shot of Eric by Grant Nakamura Photography
Me - Grant Nakamura Photography
@UGASkiDawg by Grant Nakamura Photography
Grant Nakamura Photography
BBQ grilling time!
- Matt
Next up was a drive out to Sapporo Kokusai for some backcountry skiing and avalanche education. We arrived at the resort around 9am and the carparks were almost full. Ruh roh! We changed into our boots in the carpark and then walked up to the ticket counter. The line was huge! We were only wanting to buy a 1 lift ride ticket (1,400 JPY plus 500 JPY deposit, about $17 USD) but it took about 45 minutes of queueing to be able to purchase our lift tickets.
That’s the biggest queue I’ve ever seen in Kokusai. I think it was the combination of it being a Sunday, the fact that Kokusai has some of the best snow in the Sapporo/Otaru area and I believe they had some kind of promotion on. Anyway, we bought the tickets and were straight onto the gondola. Then we walked over to the gate and then headed out into the backcountry.
One of the guys in the group is normally snowboarding with us, but he has switched back to skiing and was touring for the first time. I walked him through the process of getting into tour mode and using his Shift bindings. It all came very naturally to him as he’s a splitboarder also. Then we did some work on using our probes to feel for layers in the snowpack as we started to tour.
It wasn’t long before we heard the ominous braaaping of snowmobiles, snowbikes and ATV’s (with tracks on) heading up the mountain behind us. Snowmobiling is growing in popularity in Japan and this is becoming a very popular zone on the weekends. Thankfully it’s much quieter mid-week. Up in the alpine, we could see plenty of high-marking lines in suspect areas and we stopped to discuss their significance. If the snowpack wasn’t releasing under the weight of a snowmobile under and on top of steep, 45 degree plus convex rollovers where they had been riding, then the snowpack had been gaining some strength recently. That was promising news.
We took our time, working on some VAV/AVA turns and efficient skinning technique. We made it to the top of the ridge before traversing left to an open spot where we could transition and also dig a pit. It’s amazing how different the zone looks with more than a meter less of snow. It’s much flatter and there are a lot more bushes around. It didn’t even look like the same zone anymore and it didn’t look like potential avalanche terrain anymore as it was less steep. We found a nice spot to dig a pit, in an open area a way above a slight wind-loaded roll.
Snow depth was around 2.7m, a decent amount. We dug down about 1.5m and practiced our strategic shoveling techniques in the process. We didn’t race to make our pit but after about 30 minutes or so of digging, we had a nice 2m wide, 1.5m deep platform with room for everyone to observe. First up I showed the group how to use a crystal card to identify different layers in the snowpack and then followed that with a hand-hardness test.
Thankfully we found a snowpack that was typically “right-side up”, that is soft on top and getting gradually harder down lower. There was an area of concern with a layer of small facets (tending to rounds) about 105cm’s down with a 4 finger (4F) hardness sandwiched between two large layers of pencil hardness snow. That was an area of the snowpack that we thought might be reactive.
Everyone took turns at identifying the different layers with the crystal cards and performing the hand hardness tests. Then it was time to do some stability tests to test these layers. Time was getting on a bit so we had to pick up the pace. I cut out the sides for a shovel shear test and apart from the new snow on top (top 45cm’s of recent snow), nothing broke easily.
Then we did several CT (Column) tests and had no results. That buried weak layer 80cm’s down didn’t move. That was good. Unfortunately, we were out of time for the ECT (Extended Column Test) so we quickly filled the pit back in and got ready to ski one at a time down the face. We felt confidence in the stability of the slope below us and the somewhat mellow angle. We enjoyed nice soft snow with about 30cm’s of fresh snow on a soft base in about 20 turns or so. We regrouped at a wooded shelf before starting the long traverse back to our initial ridge. We made it without having to put skins back on and only a couple of quick walks.
We were at the skier’s left side of the resort and re-joined a groomer and took that all the way back down. The groomer was really busy and way scarier than being out in the backcountry. There were a lot of beginners and out of control skiers and boarders to avoid. It was after 3pm when we arrived back at the lodge and we enjoyed a late lunch. Then we had a 45-minute drive back to the hotel in Otaru. That night we went out to the Otaru brewery and then a couple of doors down to our favorite indoor BBQ place where you order uncooked seafood or meats and then grill yourself over your own charcoal fire. That was really tasty!
Hiking up the ridge to our zone
Digging our pit
This is only the 3rd time in 4 years I've seen the ocean from Kokusai
Hand hardness testing of the layers in the snowpack by @UGASkiDawg
Beautiful shot of Eric by Grant Nakamura Photography
Me - Grant Nakamura Photography
@UGASkiDawg by Grant Nakamura Photography
Grant Nakamura Photography
BBQ grilling time!
- Matt
Thread Starter
TS
Your thirst for knowledge is immense @karlo ! These answers are somewhat easy though. Dave has been coming on our trips for many years now. He has always snowboarded during them until he did a skier improvement course with me in Chile this past summer. He used to race on skis as a child back in the day but then switched to snowboarding later on. He wanted to put the skills he learned in Chile, into the powder here in Hokkaido. He bought fat skis with touring bindings, specifically for this trip and has been building his confidence accordingly.
As for the backcountry run feeling flatter..... At the top of the ridge/face we were skiing, it normally gets a lot of wind-blown snow at the start of the leeward side. The top of the ridge collects a lot of snow and the height of snow is greater than down lower, so the top pitch gets steeper, with more snow on it. So it's really just the start of the run that feels steeper with more snow on it and that's also where normally you might be more concerned about starting an avalanche there.
- Matt
Oh, ok. I was wondering if he ditched his snowboard because it was too flat. If so, how snowfall can affect slope that much would have been interesting
Thread Starter
TS
Some video's from Kokusai on the 20th Jan......
- Matt
- Matt
Thread Starter
TS
Jan 20th – group went to Kokusai
Frustratingly for me, my back has gone out after skiing Kokusai the day before. I don’t think it liked skiing with a pack on and skiing in deeper snow. So, I couldn’t go out and play but I drove the group to Kokusai and then picked them up at the end of the day. The snow was starting to come in conditions were improving, but I don’t have any photos yet.
Jan 21st – group went to Tengu and I Explored Otaru
It had been snowing hard despite the forecast for only 6cm’s of snow overnight, so the group decided to go to Tengu, which is only 20 minutes away from the hotel. When we got up there, you could see that it was a lot more than that, most of the tracks off the groomers were filled in, so it looked like at least a foot. In Japan, that’s going to mean faceshots.
I dropped them off and headed back to the hotel to meet David who was taking the day off himself. He had strained a muscle skiing the day before and wanted to rest. So, we’d go and do some cultural stuff in Otaru. We took a taxi down to the canal district and checked out some of the old warehouses that have been converted into shops and restaurants. We found an amazing free electronic arts display in the annex of the Otaru museum and spent some time looking at the displays.
We then went to a small backstreet full of little 10-person restaurants and ate at a BBQ lamb place where you cook your own lamb on a little grill in front of you. That was something different and it was very nice. Then I got a call to go pick up the group from Tengu so we headed back to the hotel to grab the van. The group had had an amazing time with faceshots abound with all the new snow on top of the groomers. The sidecountry isn’t ready but the snow on the groomers was great apparently.
When we got back, I took David on a walkabout of the mall to show him all the nooks and crannies. There are all the shops, but then also a cinema, bowling alley, video game arcades, a big indoor climbing area, plus a sports club/fitness center. It’s a big place and easy to get lost in. That night, the group went out to a really nice steakhouse in Otaru town.
Thanks to Grant Nakamura Photography for the use of these photos:
Hopefully I'll get to sample some of this too, in the next few weeks.
- Matt
Frustratingly for me, my back has gone out after skiing Kokusai the day before. I don’t think it liked skiing with a pack on and skiing in deeper snow. So, I couldn’t go out and play but I drove the group to Kokusai and then picked them up at the end of the day. The snow was starting to come in conditions were improving, but I don’t have any photos yet.
Jan 21st – group went to Tengu and I Explored Otaru
It had been snowing hard despite the forecast for only 6cm’s of snow overnight, so the group decided to go to Tengu, which is only 20 minutes away from the hotel. When we got up there, you could see that it was a lot more than that, most of the tracks off the groomers were filled in, so it looked like at least a foot. In Japan, that’s going to mean faceshots.
I dropped them off and headed back to the hotel to meet David who was taking the day off himself. He had strained a muscle skiing the day before and wanted to rest. So, we’d go and do some cultural stuff in Otaru. We took a taxi down to the canal district and checked out some of the old warehouses that have been converted into shops and restaurants. We found an amazing free electronic arts display in the annex of the Otaru museum and spent some time looking at the displays.
We then went to a small backstreet full of little 10-person restaurants and ate at a BBQ lamb place where you cook your own lamb on a little grill in front of you. That was something different and it was very nice. Then I got a call to go pick up the group from Tengu so we headed back to the hotel to grab the van. The group had had an amazing time with faceshots abound with all the new snow on top of the groomers. The sidecountry isn’t ready but the snow on the groomers was great apparently.
When we got back, I took David on a walkabout of the mall to show him all the nooks and crannies. There are all the shops, but then also a cinema, bowling alley, video game arcades, a big indoor climbing area, plus a sports club/fitness center. It’s a big place and easy to get lost in. That night, the group went out to a really nice steakhouse in Otaru town.
Thanks to Grant Nakamura Photography for the use of these photos:
Hopefully I'll get to sample some of this too, in the next few weeks.
- Matt
Thread Starter
TS
Some images and video from Otaru from yesterday, with @UGASkiDawg
Apologies for the selfie..... the Otaru canal on a cold day.
Here's something new. A complete, dried squid (thinking it's basically jerky) for sale in a tourist, tax-free shop.
Game ball machines. Japanese people love these!
Otaru warehouse district where many of the old warehouses are converted into shops, restaurants, etc.
@UGASkiDawg made some new friends
@UGASkiDawg opposite our favorite Otaru brewery
Cool old Hokkaido maps
Our lamb BBQ for lunch, with beansprouts and onion
Cool bookstore, nic-nac shop in the mall next to the hotel.
- Matt
Apologies for the selfie..... the Otaru canal on a cold day.
Here's something new. A complete, dried squid (thinking it's basically jerky) for sale in a tourist, tax-free shop.
Game ball machines. Japanese people love these!
Otaru warehouse district where many of the old warehouses are converted into shops, restaurants, etc.
@UGASkiDawg made some new friends
@UGASkiDawg opposite our favorite Otaru brewery
Cool old Hokkaido maps
Our lamb BBQ for lunch, with beansprouts and onion
Cool bookstore, nic-nac shop in the mall next to the hotel.
- Matt
Thread Starter
TS
Some images taken by Grant Nakamura photography for Kokusai on the 22nd January. Today we are off to Furano for the 2nd leg of our trip.....
Still plenty of shrubs sticking out, but knee deep and untouched where it was open!
- Matt
Still plenty of shrubs sticking out, but knee deep and untouched where it was open!
- Matt
Thread Starter
TS
I think it's all relative..... there's bad and then there's bad for Japan. This is considered to be a poor season by Japanese standards but it's still good skiing. I was reading a report (on Bloomberg) the other day and they were saying it's the worst season for 60 years, something like that. it's true, there are some resorts that are way, way down with snow but then there are resorts that are almost at the same snow depths as this time last year. I think if you are careful, do a little research and choose the resorts with the deeper bases, then you'll still find good coverage. Where we have been going, we've still been skiing some good snow, it's just a little brushier that usual. it's still a good time though. Furano was skiing really nicely today, great snow top to bottom and it's been snowing all day. Tomorrow should be good.
- Matt
There's no snow at the base in Hakuba. It's unusual. Very unusual we were told. It rained halfway up Happo-one yesterday. Unusual and leading to unusually bad conditions afterwards. It's actually bad on an absolute standard.
With that said, we did get one awesome powder day on this week trip. Hopefully more powder coming. In their worst season ever, there's good powder to be found. That says a lot for Japanese snow. I've been on many ski trips that have had bad snow weather and been nowhere near scoring one great powder day - on a trip where the weather was an all time worst. Japan rocks.
Matt's pictures however are from previous years or Photoshoped. Just kidding. Enjoy the snow!
Eric
With that said, we did get one awesome powder day on this week trip. Hopefully more powder coming. In their worst season ever, there's good powder to be found. That says a lot for Japanese snow. I've been on many ski trips that have had bad snow weather and been nowhere near scoring one great powder day - on a trip where the weather was an all time worst. Japan rocks.
Matt's pictures however are from previous years or Photoshoped. Just kidding. Enjoy the snow!
Eric
Thank you @Mattadvproject and @Eleeski for the encouragement about the snow situation! Departure for me is 12:30 tomorrow...Boston-->Tokyo-->Chitose. Talk about a long haul flight 
Thread Starter
TS
Thank you @Mattadvproject and @Eleeski for the encouragement about the snow situation! Departure for me is 12:30 tomorrow...Boston-->Tokyo-->Chitose. Talk about a long haul flight
Best of luck Lauren! Safe flight, might see you in Furano.
- Matt
Thread Starter
TS
Jan 22nd
Rest day, tried to rest in the hotel and not aggravate my back any further. I was only moderately successful at this.
Jan 23rd – Travel to Furano
It’s about 3 hours to get to Furano from Otaru up the Hokkaido Expressway and it was a beautiful day for a drive. The sun was shining and the roads mostly clear and dry. We turned off the Expressway at Mikasa and then took smaller roads to Furano. We had some amazing views on the way. We arrived in Furano around 12pm but we were 3 hours early for check-in and the hotel was still cleaning our rooms, so we had to wait. Dave went riding, Eric did some work and David and I went to Furano town to check out a new hotel (the La Vista, which looks amazing, think we will add that as an accommodation option for 2021).
After the tour around the hotel, I took David for lunch at the Furano Cheese Factory. That’s a must visit in Furano, if you like dairy. They have great cheese and ice-cream (with some funky flavors) and you can have as many samples as you like. Then we went downstairs for one of their great pizzas (we had the Furano cheese pizza, very tasty). Then we headed back to the hotel to check-in early around 2:30pm. At 5pm we left early to go to the Kaiten Topical Sushi (sushi train in Furano town) and we had some lovely sushi. That place is getting very busy and you definitely need to go early. By 5:30pm it was full and by 6:10pm, people were queueing out the door. Crazy times.
Jan 24th – Skiing Furano
Finally my back had calmed down enough that I could try to ski again. It was snowing hard and 5cm’s had already fallen since the lifts opened. We hit the Furano ropeway (tram) around 9:30pm. I bought a 5-hour pass for around $50. We took the tram up high and then took the double chair up to the high point. We skied several laps in that zone, with soft snow starting to accumulate on the groomers and some deeper (knee deep) piles in the trees. I started off easy and then by a couple of hours, was skiing in the tree again. It was a great feeling to finally be skiing powder again.
Then we headed towards the Premium Zone and took the (pretty flat) trail that took us over to the Kitanominae side and skied a couple of laps via the gondola. We ducked into the trees a few times and found some nice untouched lines. Then it was time to head back to the Furano side and ski the line underneath the tram (it wasn’t roped). That was the deepest snow yet and we enjoyed some quality turns there. We finished with a stop in for noodles near the ropeway for a late lunch. It was crowded in there but by 2pm, it emptied out.
We finished a fun day back in town at the Masaya Tepanyaki grill, one of our favorite restaurants. We were warmly received by the chef/owner who speaks excellent English and he made some great food. I had some gyoza, extra-large fried noodles with pork and a fried egg and a ginger ale to drink, all for about $20. It was a fun day. I skied for 4 hours straight and I’m really sore now, but the pain was worth it. Great to be skiing again finally.
- Matt
Rest day, tried to rest in the hotel and not aggravate my back any further. I was only moderately successful at this.
Jan 23rd – Travel to Furano
It’s about 3 hours to get to Furano from Otaru up the Hokkaido Expressway and it was a beautiful day for a drive. The sun was shining and the roads mostly clear and dry. We turned off the Expressway at Mikasa and then took smaller roads to Furano. We had some amazing views on the way. We arrived in Furano around 12pm but we were 3 hours early for check-in and the hotel was still cleaning our rooms, so we had to wait. Dave went riding, Eric did some work and David and I went to Furano town to check out a new hotel (the La Vista, which looks amazing, think we will add that as an accommodation option for 2021).
After the tour around the hotel, I took David for lunch at the Furano Cheese Factory. That’s a must visit in Furano, if you like dairy. They have great cheese and ice-cream (with some funky flavors) and you can have as many samples as you like. Then we went downstairs for one of their great pizzas (we had the Furano cheese pizza, very tasty). Then we headed back to the hotel to check-in early around 2:30pm. At 5pm we left early to go to the Kaiten Topical Sushi (sushi train in Furano town) and we had some lovely sushi. That place is getting very busy and you definitely need to go early. By 5:30pm it was full and by 6:10pm, people were queueing out the door. Crazy times.
Jan 24th – Skiing Furano
Finally my back had calmed down enough that I could try to ski again. It was snowing hard and 5cm’s had already fallen since the lifts opened. We hit the Furano ropeway (tram) around 9:30pm. I bought a 5-hour pass for around $50. We took the tram up high and then took the double chair up to the high point. We skied several laps in that zone, with soft snow starting to accumulate on the groomers and some deeper (knee deep) piles in the trees. I started off easy and then by a couple of hours, was skiing in the tree again. It was a great feeling to finally be skiing powder again.
Then we headed towards the Premium Zone and took the (pretty flat) trail that took us over to the Kitanominae side and skied a couple of laps via the gondola. We ducked into the trees a few times and found some nice untouched lines. Then it was time to head back to the Furano side and ski the line underneath the tram (it wasn’t roped). That was the deepest snow yet and we enjoyed some quality turns there. We finished with a stop in for noodles near the ropeway for a late lunch. It was crowded in there but by 2pm, it emptied out.
We finished a fun day back in town at the Masaya Tepanyaki grill, one of our favorite restaurants. We were warmly received by the chef/owner who speaks excellent English and he made some great food. I had some gyoza, extra-large fried noodles with pork and a fried egg and a ginger ale to drink, all for about $20. It was a fun day. I skied for 4 hours straight and I’m really sore now, but the pain was worth it. Great to be skiing again finally.
- Matt
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