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James

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The only used ski I would recommend is a race ski. And then that could be pretty worn. At least it's unlikely to be ruined by tuning butchery.

The chances of a carving ski being seriously detuned is high. There's no point in getting a carving ski if the front has been butchered so much it won't bite and is unfixable. This is more common then you would think.

Get a model that's a few years old or on special sale. Don't get an old Volkl Rtm that has no camber.
 

LiquidFeet

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Thanks, Can you give me couple examples about your suggestion around 78mm?

There are too many suggestions already in this thread.

Tell the community what it is about your carving needs improvement. Here are some questions that, if you answer them, should give these people a better sense of what ski would suit you best as you work to improve your carving.

1. What movements do you use to start your carved turns? Can you be specific? If not, that's OK.
2. Are there movements that you are trying to purge because they mess up your carved turns? If you don't know, that's normal. If you do know, what are they?
3. Do you ever hang onto your carved turns until the skis are arcing uphill, with tails following tips? If yes, do you have difficulty starting the next turn when you do this? If yes, do you know what you need to work on to eliminate the hitch in that initiation?
4. Can you say something about how you handle the top half of your carved turns? That's the part where the skis continue across the trail in the old direction, but they are now on the new (downhill) edges. The top half ends when the skis point downhill. Do you do anything during this short phase of the turn that is specific to making a carved turn, instead of creating a non-carved turn?
5. Can you imagine terrain or conditions where short turns would be to your advantage? If yes, where would you use them?
6. You sound committed to speed and its thrills. Have you considered signing up for race training? Race courses are separated from the general public to protect recreational skiers from racers who miss a turn and go speeding off in unexpected directions. There can also be netting on the side of the trail to protect racers from trees when they miss a turn and head off towards the woods. Speeding down crowded trails can be a thrill all its own, but ....
7. Are there pitches or snow conditions that you are not sure you can carve yet? If yes, what are they? Do you know yet what you'd need to do to successfully carve these conditions? If you don't know, that's fine.
8. It sounds like, although new to skiing, you are passionately devoted to it. Welcome to the club! That's why the rest of us are here to talk about skiing, when for many of us the season's over. I'm jealous that you ski at Mammoth. Enjoy that long season.
 
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Marker

Making fresh tracks
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Did you read those Pugski Rossignol reviews? Please share your thoughts.

@Doug Briggs says the MT is as docile as an Experience 83, but can handle higher speeds. I've owned an E83 and it was fun and easy to ski as a low intermediate at the time. I now have a Hero Elite LT for hard snow, but use an Elan Amphibio 88 for my all mtn daily driver. The LT is a handful, but this year I finally felt like I could do them justice. If you are sold on the Rossi line, the MT sounds like a good fit for your stated needs.

I might have to demo the MT and Plus myself next year, I passed on them this year at Killington's free demo day because I was focusing on wide all mtn skis.
 
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rjski

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There are too many suggestions already in this thread.

Tell the community what about your carving needs improvement. Here are some questions that, if you answer them, will give these people a better sense of what ski would suit you best as you work to improve your carving.

1. What movements do you use to start your carved turns? Can you be specific? If not, that's OK.
2. Are there movements that you are trying to purge because they mess up your carved turns? If you don't know, that's normal. If you do know, what are they?
3. Do you ever hang onto your carved turns until the skis are arcing uphill, with tails following tips? If yes, do you have difficulty starting the next turn when you do this? If yes, do you know what you need to work on to eliminate the hitch?
4. Can you say something about how you handle the top half of your carved turns? That's the part where the skis continue across the trail in the old direction, but they are now on the new (downhill) edges. Do you do anything during this short phase of the turn that is specific to making a carved turn, instead of creating a non-carved turn?
5. Can you imagine terrain or conditions where short turns would be to your advantage? If yes, where would you use them?
6. You sound committed to speed and its thrills. Have you considered signing up for race training? Race courses are separated from the general public to protect recreational skiers from racers who miss a turn and go speeding off in unexpected directions. There can also be netting on the side of the trail to protect racers from trees when they miss a turn and head off towards the woods. Speeding down crowded trails can be a thrill all its own, but ....
7. Are there pitches or snow conditions that you are not sure you can carve yet? If yes, what are they? Do you know yet what you'd need to do to successfully carve these conditions?
8. It sounds like, although new to skiing, you are passionately devoted to it. Welcome to the club! That's why the rest of us are here to talk about skiing, when for many of us the season's over. I'm jealous that you ski at Mammoth. Enjoy that long season.

I took a lesson at the end of this season and it completely changed my turns, that was the first time I felt g-force while skiing, learned carving that way with an instructor.
1) I initiate it with knees and upper body almost opposite side.
2) I tend to not lean forward enough before the lesson, now I do.
3) Yes for the first one, and no I don't have difficulty about that.
4)Knees and upper body positions.
5)With narrow piste or to avoid the crowd.
6)My max speed is around 50-55 mph, not 90mph. I don't ski like kamikaze. If conditions are good enough, why not. No interest about racing right now.
7)I think, I need some time to start carving at fresh snow/powder with larger skis.
8)Thank you. I started skiing 15 years ago but every once in a while, then I became an advanced snowboarder in last few years but I want to carry my skiing game to different level.
 
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rjski

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Advanced snowboarder changes everything. Go ahead and get an advanced or expert only ski. Something mid 70s mm waist should be good for where you ski. Something with a smaller waist (e.g. Stockli SX, Fischer Curve, or RC) will be less fun in the snow, but a better teacher; up to you to choose.
I didn't mean that, was just giving information about myself.
 

mister moose

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The only used ski I would recommend is a race ski. And then that could be pretty worn. At least it's unlikely to be ruined by tuning butchery.

The chances of a carving ski being seriously detuned is high. There's no point in getting a carving ski if the front has been butchered so much it won't bite and is unfixable. This is more common then you would think.

Get a model that's a few years old or on special sale. Don't get an old Volkl Rtm that has no camber.

That hasn't been my experience at all. I have bought lightly used skis that had a handful of days on them and were in great shape, and moderately used skis that tuned up and ski great and I can ski them on weak base powder days or thin cover spring days with abandon since I paid so little for them. I've bought year end demos for 1/3 the price of new that had 5 days if that on them.

I've also bought new never used skis that were leftovers, and 2 model year old brand new skis that were decent but not the hot model. I demo a lot on free demo days and sometimes trade friend's skis for a run, so I have a fair idea of what I'm looking for when I'm on the hunt for a pair of skis.

I don't doubt you on some carving skis being heavily detuned, but the number of lightly used pairs that can't be brought back isn't that high, YMMV duly noted. I'm not advocating buying worn skis - skis with lots of topsheet scratches, noticeable binding heel release wear, or suspect looking bottoms, all of which indicate wear. In other words, don't buy a used ski from me, buy it from the statistical 5-10 day a year skier that didn't abuse his equipment. These skis don't just fall into your hands, you have to go out, look under rocks, and kiss a lot of frogs on the way to finding a pair.

A lot of this comes from experience, I know. But you have to start somewhere.

(And who detunes carving skis? I know it happens quite a bit, but if you can't keep up with the ski, maybe it's the wrong ski for you. /rant)
 
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surfsnowgirl

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I snowboarded for 8 years before I learned to ski. I think it helps a lot. Ski Essentials is great, check their website, shoot them an email. My first pair of skis cost $225 shipped from ski essentials. I don't recommend spending too much money because you don't know what you like yet. Get a pair of one of the recommended skis at a cheaper price, ski the hell out of them, take lots of lessons, and have a blast.
 

dbostedo

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I didn't mean that, was just giving information about myself.

I think you did mean that, if I understand correctly.

There's a big difference between:

1) having 15-20 days as a skier, never having skied or snowboarded before at all, and
2) having occasionally skied over the years while being an advanced snowboarder, and taking ski lessons

I think folks were thinking of case #1 above, and were more worried that you were overestimating yourself and what skis would be good for you. That's not an uncommon/unheard of thing - that a relatively new skier makes some good early progress and goes straight to thinking they need world cup skis. Especially if they're athletic and young and think that making a few railroad tracks or being able to muscle down a tough run makes them an expert. (Not that that's you.) Folks like that are more likely to buy skis unsuited to them that actually hurt their progress, as mentioned above.

But with more skiing and snowsports background, and the talk about your lessons, it's more likely that a more advanced ski will work out OK. Personally, I still think you should demo a bunch of different skis and see what kind of variety is out there before you zero in on wanting a race ski. Demo days are great for that! And I think no matter what you should continue taking lessons (and ask your instructor about whether or not your turns should start with your feet, if you get the chance).
 

markojp

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Thanks all, I think maybe I made a mistake by saying I have 15-20 days total. Yes, that's all I have but some people are more talented than others.
I'm generally good with all kind of sports by genes. Don't get me wrong, maybe you guys are right but I've demoed Volkl RTM 84 and Blizzard Bonafide last season both with 130 Flex Nordica Speedmachine. I think both good skis but I want something around high-70s width to improve my carving.

Btw If you take a look at this video this guy looks like he knows what he is talking about. Especially if you listen what he says at 3:15.

Respect all opinions, please tell me if I'm wrong.

Also If you still think the same, please give me some advices about which skis I can get. I definitely don't want to spend $100 more to just demo.

I haven't read the whole thread, and I'm sure after page three, there's a lot of 'if it works for me, it'll work for you.' FWIW, for where you most likely are in your skier development, the Elite Plus Ti, while a very nice ski, IMHO probably isn't optimal for you just yet. I'd suggest a Head Supershape iRally, maybe even a Titan. Both are a bit more versatile and can be skied with less precision than the Rossi (yes, they're a bit more forgiving, but can also make very high performance turns). The Plus really does feel like a wide race ski, but it's pretty stiff for off piste if that's in your program at your weight. If you're not going off piste, why not go narrower? As nice as this ski is, I still couldn't understand why I wouldn't want a FIS SL or something like a Hero Master, but I digress..... Anyhow, even if you showed up for a carving clinic on say a Nordica Navigator 80, you'd have a great ski to start on that can certainly tip and rip, and keep as a really nice bump ski when you eventually do get a higher performance carver. And of course, this is going with the assumption your boots and alignment are sorted out.
 
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rjski

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I haven't read the whole thread, and I'm sure after page three, there's a lot of 'if it works for me, it'll work for you.' FWIW, for where you most likely are in your skier development, the Elite Plus Ti, while a very nice ski, IMHO probably isn't optimal for you just yet. I'd suggest a Head Supershape iRally, maybe even a Titan. Both are a bit more versatile and can be skied with less precision than the Rossi (yes, they're a bit more forgiving, but can also make very high performance turns). The Plus really does feel like a wide race ski, but it's pretty stiff for off piste if that's in your program at your weight. If you're not going off piste, why not go narrower? As nice as this ski is, I still couldn't understand why I wouldn't want a FIS SL or something like a Hero Master, but I digress..... Anyhow, even if you showed up for a carving clinic on say a Nordica Navigator 80, you'd have a great ski to start on that can certainly tip and rip, and keep as a really nice bump ski when you eventually do get a higher performance carver. And of course, this is going with the assumption your boots and alignment are sorted out.
Head iSupershape Titan is what I'd buy but there's not a great deal online right now for this one. Another suggestion like Titan?
 

eok

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A lot of great suggestions here. Looks like you could end up with a fairly long list of possibilities.

From year to year, I try and stay informed on the kinds of skis that fit my skiing goals. Specifically: frontside skis that are biased for carving. And the thing is: for that category almost all those skis are good. Seriously, just about every manufacturer nowadays has their frontside carver designs well dialed and these are truly good times if that's the kind of ski you're looking for.

Anyway, I read reviews, get 1st hand feedback from other skiers and I sometimes demo. So, I've always got an up-to-date mental list of skis I'm interested in. This comes in real handy at the pre-season ski swaps or post-season clearances.
 

Tony S

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Wow.
 

markojp

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Head iSupershape Titan is what I'd buy but there's not a great deal online right now for this one. Another suggestion like Titan?

Are you looking for a 170?
 

Cheizz

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I suggested the Speedzones somewhere on page 1 of this thread.

I am really surprised bij the suggestions of the Titans, Curvs (unless you mean the Curv TI) and other quite stiff and high performance skis. I cannot imagine someone with 20 days of ski experience on those, to be hounest.
Then again, it seems that most Americans ski, like and suggest much burlier skis than Europeans would... I hounestly wonder why that is.
 

Tony S

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Tails following tips carving, high speed, long turns and good genes :)thumb: :thumb: on the excellent choice of parents) means only one thing - a pair of FIS GS ski.

Race Place have a pair of Atomic men's FIS GS 193 cm R>30 at a decent price of $649.
That would be my ski choice for the speed course below Cornice at Mammoth.
Mammoth gondola laps never sounded so good.

Unrepentant instigator. :nono::roflmao:
 

Tony S

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I suggested the Speedzones somewhere on page 1 of this thread.

I am really surprised bij the suggestions of the Titans, Curvs (unless you mean the Curv TI) and other quite stiff and high performance skis. I cannot imagine someone with 20 days of ski experience on those, to be hounest.
Then again, it seems that most Americans ski, like and suggest much burlier skis than Europeans would... I hounestly wonder why that is.

+1
 

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