Indie Resorts: Who’s Left? (Part 1, West)

[Don in Morrison]

This coming season will be my third with a season pass at Granby Ranch. It's a sort of Mom and Pop destination resort. Me driving up from Denver makes me a local of sorts. Most of the people I ride the lifts with are from Somewhere Else, visiting for the week, or sometimes a weekend. It's a very family-friendly place. Sometimes it feels like there are more kids than adults there.

The owners put it on the market last year, but I don't know the status of that deal, except that it evidently hasn't sold yet. They completely revamped their website this season.

 

[pchewn]

Ski Bowl on Mt Hood is the "Largest Night Ski Area in the USA". It has some nice terrain, a great cozy mid-mountain eat/drink hut, and some of the oldest slowest lifts.

The "rope tow at Government Camp" you mentioned is gone. This is at Summit ski area. It now has a single chairlift. Bought this year by Timberline.


Top of night skiing at Ski Bowl


Mid Mountain hut at Ski Bowl

 

[wallyk]

@David Chaus....a very fine post and thank you for the time and attention to detail.......To me, the best aspect of this entire posting is the illustration that the independent owned and operated ski area is very much alive and remains an essential component of the US skiing experience. Obviously the 2018 represented an acceleration of alliances and mergers that was driven by the major ski publicly owned corporate entities who obviously feel the need to act before the rise in interest rates and borrowing costs. Nothing wrong with this type of corporate activity as modern risk management and balance sheets are delicate matters that demand professional attention to help smooth earnings, reduce volatility to create a type of experience that can be replicated and marketed to the upper middle class skier....Hello Vail Corp.

However, reading about the plethora of very fine ski areas that reside outside of this corporate managed areas, it seems that skiing's true soul and spirit is identified and located. Perhaps I'm being overly dramatic with this categorization, perhaps I'm not. To many, this writer included, skiing represents far more than the ability to link passes together. If the local hills have always been the base of the ski industry these larger independent areas appear to be the cousin of the corporate areas that cater to the upper middle class with a plethora of intermediate runs and the latest in on-slope dining and lift technology. This article was sent to my friends with the idea that for our "guys" ski trip in 2019 we follow Robert Frost's advice and "take the road less traveled." Hopefully that will make all the difference.....sorry Vail Corp.....

 

[David Chaus]

Yes, please add your favorites. As I noted in the article, what I wrote is not every ski resort, but rather destination trip options that are not currently part of Epic-world or Ikon-verse. So, looking at infrastructure, amenities, nearby accommodations; etc. I supose any mom and pop ski hill could meet that description depending on what kind of experience you’re looking for.

And, you may have noted that I subversively mentioned a few ski areas that are clearly not destination resorts, but I did it anyway?

 

[Sibhusky]

You notice I wasn't adding Blacktail and Turner. Neither could keep you happy a whole week. Turner because it's not open a full week. Blacktail because it's worth maybe a day. So they are not destination class.

 

[David Chaus]

Nice post @wallyk. I am motivated by many of the same things as you, and I’m pleased you’ve passed the link along to others. I am also motivated by minimizing the FOMO effect of the Epic and Ikon passes, and the tendency to worry about buying the passes before the price increase deadlines. I don’t always want to make my destination commitments in spring of the year before I take next vacation.

 

[Bad Bob]

David I did not give you the kudos you deserve for the guide you created. It really is very good.

Another trend that makes so much sense for the smaller areas are the loose associations they are creating. They are independent but offer pass holders from other regional independent areas some perks too. The Inland Northwest has created what they called "509" (don't know if they are staying with that name this year or not). Here is what you get for outside benefits at my little area with a $300 season pass, not a bad package....

"Other than an ENTIRE season of great skiing and riding at the best place on earth, 49° North Season Pass holders can cash on on FREE tickets at partner mountains as well as discounts at surrounding ski resorts! Show your Season Pass at the following resorts and receive these great discounts on day tickets!


$5 Off Mount Spokane, Silver Mountain, and Lookout Day Ticket

2 Free Bluewood Day Tickets Dayton, WA*
2 Free Loup Loup Day Tickets Twisp, WA, then 50% Off * (once before I die, I'm going to ski Loup Loup, got to do it.)
3 Free Mission Ridge Day Tickets Wenatchee, WA, then 50% Off lift tickets*
3 Free White Pass Day Tickets Naches, WA*

25% Off Big White Day Tickets Kelowna, BC, Canada
50% Off Eaglecrest Day Tickets Juneau, AK
25% Off Grouse Mountain Day Tickets North Vancouver, BC, Canada
25% Off Manning Park Day Ticket Manning Park, BC, Canada
25% Off Red Mountain Day Tickets Rossland, BC, Canada
25% Off Silver Star Day Tickets BC, Canada
25% Off Sitzmark Ski Area Day Tickets Tonasket, WA
25% Off Sun Peak Day Tickets Sun Peaks, BC, Canada
25% Off Whitewater Nelson, BC, Canada"

Wonder how prevalent associations like this are in other areas? It makes a pretty painless way for smaller independent areas to assist each other.

Long Live the GDI's (God D2#%*ed Independent)

 

[Jerez]

For the Southwest, you also have Sunrise Resort, Ski Apache, Mt. Lemmon Ski Valley, and Cloudcroft Ski Area all hanging on by the skin of their teeth. None of them will end up in Vail's portfolio thankfully but could easily be victims of economics and climate change. Ski them if you get the chance.
.

And Ski Santa Fe, along with Sandia Peak are still family owned.

 

[slowrider]

Last year trip was Targhee/Anthony Lakes. This year Mt. Spokane,ect.

 

[Joe Strummer]

A very well written and enjoyable read.

I got to think that Sun Peaks, Silver Star, and Big White have got to be of interest to Vail Resorts or Alterra. However all 3 are doing quite well on their own and may not be interested in selling or having to give up some day ticket sales to a Epic or Ikon pass' shared revenue. They draw mostly skiers form eastern Canada and internationally and especially Aussies. So they could remain independent for a while.

Revelstoke might be of interest to a very deep pocketed developer and it needs lots of infrastructure but has a deal killer of almost no intermediate terrain and a long way from anywhere. So it could remain underdeveloped with inadequate lift system (lift lines on powder days) and independently owned for a while. Nice that it is on the Ikon pass and I am 3 hours away with a truck camper and an Ikon pass.

Pretty sure my Whistler-Blackcomb season pass includes discounted tickets at Sun peaks. Maybe something's afoot already. My understanding is SPs is owned by some Japanese conglomerate.

 

[DanoT]

Pretty sure my Whistler-Blackcomb season pass includes discounted tickets at Sun peaks. Maybe something's afoot already. My understanding is SPs is owned by some Japanese conglomerate.

Sun Peaks is owned by a private company with deep pockets: NIppon Cable, one of the largest manufacturers of aerial cable in Asia. They also own 5 ski areas in Japan, 25% of Whistler/Blackcomb (and have for a few decades) as well as 40% of Dopplemayr Lifts. Ever noticed that every single lift at WB, including the $50M Peak To Peak Gondola is a Dopplemayr?

Prior to Vail buying 75% of WB, Sun Peaks had a 50% off day tickets reciprocal deal for passholders of WB and passholders of SP. Most of the other resorts in BC and some in Alberta have a 25% off deal amongest themselfs that has been in place for decades. Staff among these resorts get 50% off recip deal with staff pass and letter of employment confirmation.

The Epic Pass does not get a 50% off at Sun Peaks but the Whistler Pass does.

 

[New2]

Great article! One cluster you left out is Central California--generally dominated by local traffic, but worth a look in a good snow year (if such a thing ever comes again). China Peak and Bear Valley are good-size areas with at least a bit of lodging at the base. Dodge Ridge is mid-size and doesn't have slopeside lodging, but still might warrant a mention. Yosemite Ski and Snowboard Area bucks the locals-heavy trend, as its location in the iconic Yosemite National Park means more tourists visit. Small, but can be a lot of fun, and the park's scenery is spectacular.

Southwest
Colorado has the most ski destination resorts of any state. The destination resorts are either Vail resorts (or in the case of A-Basin is independently owned but included on the Epic Pass) or Alterra/Ikon resorts...

Telluride's in the same boat as A-basin... independently owned but included on the Epic Pass.

 

[4aprice]

Love this write up. There certainly are a lot of places that you touched on that I hope to get to see in the retirement phase of life.

As a native east coaster (still here for the time being ) and New England skier I look forward to your eastern segment. Several gems here that will deserve mention.

I want to point out that, while I am currently an Ikon Pass holder (it absolutely fits our current lifestyle to a tee), I want these places to succeed and feel they are an integral part of the sport. I love the concept of the Freedom Pass and would have no problems skiing on that pass for several seasons. I think it was Ski Cooper in Colorado that had an amazing amount of agreements with other areas that I could work out a whole season of good skiing both east and west.

Your post also points out that there are still many places that have good skiing not under the umbrella of Ikon and Epic "duopoly".

 

[David Chaus]

Love this write up. There certainly are a lot of places that you touched on that I hope to get to see in the retirement phase of life.

As a native east coaster (still here for the time being ) and New England skier I look forward to your eastern segment. Several gems here that will deserve mention.

Actually, @Jim Kenney is working on Part 2, which focuses on the eastern resorts, stay tuned.

 

[Pat AKA mustski]

This is a fantastic guide. Thanks!

 

[4aprice]

Actually, @Jim Kenney is working on Part 2, which focuses on the eastern resorts, stay tuned.

Jim K is a very good choice. Have been a fan of his work for years. Look forward to it. (Good photographer too)

 

[wyowindrunner]

Enjoyed the read. One left off is Red Lodge south of Billings, Montana -has some agreements with other mountains for season pass holders, (Homewood, Whitefish) for free days and some discounts,(50% off at Alta), but I don't think it has been conglomerated yet. On good snow years it has some great sking. A destination for central Montana skiers and folks from the Dakotas, but not high on other people's lists. 2012? I remember riding lifts with people from all over the country who had canceled Christmas trips to other snow starved areas to ride the 75 or so inches Red Lodge had before Christmas. Nice town too, a few miles down from the hill.

 

[Brian Likes Pow]

This was a fantastic read. These are the resorts we as consumers need to give some love. Buy a ticket. ..get a beer.

 

[rustypouch]

We have moved and Apex is now our home hill so I thought additional information regarding Apex Resort (Penticton) may be useful to anybody considering coming to the BC Okanagan. Sun Peaks (Kamloops), Silver Star (Vernon), and Big White (Kelowna) can be considered genuine destination resorts with lots of on hill accomodation, dining, etc.Sun Peaks and Big White are particularly family oriented ie intermediate hills and a family could happily spend a week at any of the three.

Apex is not like that. The hill is relatively small, the base area amenities are very basic and, with the exception of last season, it gets less snow than the other three. It is also steeper, bumpier and all round more challenging than any of the other hills. With local knowledge we can enjoy ourselves for an entire season but intermediate visitors would probably get bored in a few days. On the other hand expert skiers will find the hill very entertaining.
Most skiers are local and there are very few crowds even on weekends. The base elevation is 5000 feet and Penticton is only 35 Km away at 1200 feet so the road goes up quickly.

This map shows lots of genuine blacks and double blacks

Mt Baldy wasn't mentioned and it is about 75 minutes south and east of Penticton near Oliver. It is a funky throwback hill whose main claims to fame are Powder Thursdays because it's closed Tuesday and Wednesday and the fact it has the highest base elevation in Canada at 5600+ feet. It also has some on the best glade skiing in the Okanagan

PM me if you are thinking of coming my way and I will give you a no BS snow report.

Another vote for Apex. I worked there as a liftee back in the day. Even though I haven't been there for years, I still think of it. I was living in the Hot tubs, and my friends were in the Tea House. Some interesting times.

 

[marjoram_sage]

I have nothing to add but wanted to say that this was a very informative piece.