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Ideas for New MTB Wheels

AmyPJ

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For my 29er. Running 2.3 tires currently, tubeless (is there anything else??! Love my tubeless.) Current wheels are Bontrager stock wheels that came with my 2014 Trek Lush S. Looking to lighten the load but have NO idea what the cost would be, and how much I would need to lighten it to have an appreciable difference in efficiency. There is a plethora of used stuff available here in UT, too, so ideas would be great because I can hunt around online, particularly since I'm in no hurry.
 

Ron

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Ok any budget??? You can get a good wheel with a very good hub just going with Stans Arch and then getting a nice hub. @dawgcatching can build you a set. I am really enjoying my I9 Torch hubs and they aren't crazy expensive but there are a bunch of very good hubs and I'm sure others will suggest. DT Swiss 240's are super solid and dependable but I do notice the difference especially in engagement (32 vs 120) . A set of stans should be in the mid-$600's,

Nox composites, American Classics are other brands that make carbon and Aluminum wheels that are excellent values too.
 
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AmyPJ

AmyPJ

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Hmmm, budget IS a factor, especially this summer. But, I could put them on my shopping list for next spring then keep an eye out over the winter. I think the amount of weight they'd save vs. cost is a big factor. They need to be worth it. Otherwise, I'll just consider it a better workout (my current bike, as it is, is NOT particularly light.)
 

Ron

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I'm not having good luck find specs on them but to "buy" weight savings you would probably have to look a set in the $1K plus range to get something with significant savings. You will get a faster rolling wheel, stiffer and more stable even with a Stans set. Have you weighed the bike? You can usually start to take off a decent amount of weight by replacing the bars, seat (I would say seatpost but you should be adding a dropper) and some of the key compnents (cranks, going to a 2x is better but wont save a lot of weight)

This is tough though because you can start to spend a lot of money fast. Best advice may be to keep the bike for another season or so and then look to buy a new bike that is the next step up for you. It seems that you may have out grown (ability-wise) your bike :) That lush is a solid bike though. SLX stuff is solid and performs well. I was just reading up on some very sweet new 9'rs coming out that have slacker heads and improved geo that looks very promising. I'm a 27.5 fan though.
 
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Ron

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I still like the idea of buying a frame and then having it built out to your specs. @GregMerz has done this a couple of times. He buys the components over the winter and then builds it out for the spring. I dont think you end up paying less, but everything on the bike is what you want.
 
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Erik Timmerman

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I'm a big fan of pre-built wheels such as Mavic's Crossmax wheels (now comes the part where people tell you why they are bad) which IMHO actually can be a good value for the money. I have two pairs, Crossmax SX and Crossmax SL. Depending on tires there is as much as a two pound difference between the two wheelsets. I have tried to quantify how much faster I am on the lighter wheels, and the conclusion I have come to is... that I am not faster on the lighter wheels. If I am faster on them, it is not by much. Not trying to be a wet blanket, but, there it is. I do think that things like semi-slick tires can make you faster going up hill, but do you want to make that trade-off on the downs? I decided that I don't.

Also, when it comes to building wheels, there are so many nice hubs out there. I love DTs, and the I9s are nice too, but they are so expensive now! I just build with Hopes and Shimanos now. I'm getting ready to build some new wheels now, not sure if I will use Saint or Hope, but it will be one of the two. Just bummed to see that Mavic no longer makes my favorite DH rim, the 823.
 

Ron

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good point on tires! I am a Nobby nic 2.35 fan for our not too technical stuff. A really good compromise of rolling, grip, puncture protection and weight.

Hope II's are nice hubs.
 

Josh Matta

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first IMO width is more important than weight for overall speed and comfort. I personally would rather run a heavier but wider wheel on any bike I own so a 2.3 ish tire is more squared off and I have more volume in the tire. I also run 1.5 ply DH tires for trail rides these days so my opinion is differently towards fun.

I would honestly be hesistant to buy anything for less than 25mm ish and would strive for 30mm in internal width. You bontrager wheels I think are decent enough wheels and unless you going to spend lots it would be hard to beat them.

on my 29er I run a Hope Pro 2 and Stans Flow Ex. stiff as all hell, 29mm internal, and mount non tubeless tires pretty easily.

if your itching to spend money Id go find a shop to put a dropper on your bike.
 
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AmyPJ

AmyPJ

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LOL OK, Josh! I actually appreciate that advice.
As for building a bike, one of my girlfriend's husbands is a pro racer. Pretty sure I could coax him (with beer??) into building me a bike. Bonus is he can often get the parts for a great price. I guess I should be asking him this stuff!

ETA this just popped up on my FB feed. Anyone heard of them? Can they provide that much different of a ride? http://nsmb.com/nox-farlow-carbon-wheels-reviewed/
 
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Monique

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I am no good with building bikes (yet?), but when I bought my bike years ago, it was at a shop where I bought the frame and then chose every single component individually. It was an exercise in hemorrhaging money, but I got exactly what I wanted. Certainly I could have saved a bundle by making some compromises. Anyway, wheels practically don't have an upper price limit, so you should probably give us an idea of your budget. On the flip side, I think manufacturers like Trek do a great job of bang for buck with fully built bikes.

Also second getting a dropper.
 

Philpug

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I am no good with building bikes (yet?), but when I bought my bike years ago, it was at a shop where I bought the frame and then chose every single component individually. It was an exercise in hemorrhaging money, but I got exactly what I wanted. Certainly I could have saved a bundle by making some compromises. Anyway, wheels practically don't have an upper price limit, so you should probably give us an idea of your budget. On the flip side, I think manufacturers like Trek do a great job of bang for buck with fully built bikes.

One bike=Complete Quiver of skis
 

crgildart

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Bike sits in the shed collecting dust while skis reside indoors getting dusted and fiddled with weekly. Now, skateboards?? They are getting some occasional summer attention. One day I will circle back to the bike, just not likely until fall... and that's if I don't end up coaching a U14 soccer team then. I will need something additional to transition back to ski legs though so the bike is an option if I'm not getting enough work with hockey and skateboarding and soccer.

As for new bike gear, I try not to look at it. Ignorance is bliss! Saving the money for skiing.
 

Monique

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scott43

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Especially when you are like "psssh X9, I want X0!"

Well at the end of the day, really, you still have to ride the bike no matter how much you spend on it. That's why I always say fit and feel and durability are more important really. You can blow your brains out on expensive stuff..but really..are you going to get up that hill much faster? Josh makes some good points..if you feel more comfortable, whatever it is, dropper post, more grip, better fit, lighter wheels that FEEL faster even if they don't really make you much faster at all..if you feel good about your bike, you'll be faster and feel happier. 14% grade still feels like 14% grade whether I'm on my MTB or my road bike...they're both tough! :D
 

Monique

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Well at the end of the day, really, you still have to ride the bike no matter how much you spend on it. That's why I always say fit and feel and durability are more important really. You can blow your brains out on expensive stuff..but really..are you going to get up that hill much faster? Josh makes some good points..if you feel more comfortable, whatever it is, dropper post, more grip, better fit, lighter wheels that FEEL faster even if they don't really make you much faster at all..if you feel good about your bike, you'll be faster and feel happier. 14% grade still feels like 14% grade whether I'm on my MTB or my road bike...they're both tough! :D

There is no substance on earth that will make me fast, or even appreciably faster, on a climb. But I do appreciate smooth shifting, which is theoretically what I was buying. As I recall. It was quite a while ago. Also ... it's all about budget. If it's not a big sacrifice in money to get the nicest stuff, and if (big if) the highest end components aren't so lightweight that they aren't durable ...

But the body is the great leveler. Plenty of people on much less expensive gear can climb like billy goats. So I might as well take solace in my fancy-pants stuff. Anyway, I think the components are like 6 years old at this point, maybe more, so they've amortized well. Aside from replacement for damage, which has been minimal, I've just upgraded to wider bars, shorter stem, flat pedals (yes that's an upgrade for me :) ), and a dropper. Oh and a free bash guard to replace the big ring. I did put them on a new frame, because I had originally gotten an XS to reduce pressure on my wrists, but as my wrists got better after a few years, I wanted a S. Ellsworth did me a solid on a "trade in" treated as a warranty, so I got a nice discount even though the frame was already several years old.

All of which is irrelevant, really, to Amy's query. You're absolutely right that I could have gotten components a few steps down and been just fine. Probably wouldn't have even noticed it when actually riding. But if I were to do that, well, as @Philpug will tell you, I have a self-imposed obligation to keep the outdoor equipment economy running.
 

Superbman

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Big fan of Spank rims right now...best Alu rims per dollar: check out Spike Race 33 rims or whatever 29er offer is with their 295 rims
 
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AmyPJ

AmyPJ

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Big fan of Spank rims right now...best Alu rims per dollar: check out Spike Race 33 rims or whatever 29er offer is with their 295 rims
Will check those out, thanks!
 

Ron

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LOL OK, Josh! I actually appreciate that advice.
As for building a bike, one of my girlfriend's husbands is a pro racer. Pretty sure I could coax him (with beer??) into building me a bike. Bonus is he can often get the parts for a great price. I guess I should be asking him this stuff!

ETA this just popped up on my FB feed. Anyone heard of them? Can they provide that much different of a ride? http://nsmb.com/nox-farlow-carbon-wheels-reviewed/

Yes, Nox Composites were one of the wheels I suggested. @GregMerz has a couple pair. They make a good wheel and you can select from several hubs. I totally agree that part of getting wheels is a wider internal rim as well as faster rolling and better engagement. Weight is part of it though. According to Enve, Renolds and Nox, for tires ranging from 2.3-2.4, the best width is 26mm, for tires 2.4-2.5, they recommend 30. http://enve.com/journal/is-wider-always-better/ On my I9 Pillars, they are 26mm wide and they make my 2.35's look huge. I def' noticed that they rolled better, with less deflection and just have an improved ride feel.
 

Superbman

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You should check out Dave Thomas at speeddream.com Dave has been building the best wheel sets at a very solid price (for the level of expertise) for decades. Check out the mtbr.com reviews of Dave Thomas and Speed Dream wheels.

In particular, he builds the Nox composite on an I9 hub at a fabulous price. FWIW-I have a set of 7 year old Stan Flow EX on Hope Pro 2 hubs that he built and they've never needed truing and still run well. He builds with Stans, Velocity, Enve and Nox rims on White industry, Ind 9, or King hubs. Can't recommend him enough.
 

Ron

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Just as an FYI- I9 changed the bearings and internal grease on the Torch. I am pretty sure they have a less high pitched, angry bee sound. I like it.

@AmyPJ just a note of caution, if you are planning on buying a new bike, I would hold off on the wheels since almost every new bike is now spec'd for Boost hubs.
 

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