How Wide Are Your Bars?

[Mike Thomas]

Nice Ripmo 4ster.

I run a 780mm bar, which seems fine. I wouldn't go any narrower, that's for sure. I am 6'3", so yeah... no issue with wingspan.

 

[ZionPow]

760mm. Why? Because that is what Norco thought was correct for a 120/110mm travel FS. Actually I don't think much about technical stuff. i just go ride

 

[firebanex]

I'm running 780 on my fat bike, the width helps quite a bit with counteracting the self steer of 5" tires in winter. Super helpful for following other tire tracks in snow. My wife is running 730 on her fat bike, they came with a 750 bar but we cut them down cause they were more comfy.

 

[Wilhelmson]

Do these people never ride tight trees?

If I had wider bars maybe I'd have less scratches on my shoulders.

 

[blackke17]

running the stock 720mm bars - feel perfect for my 5'9"self

800mm seems a bit overkill for a MTB. I run 811mm on my KX250F but thats a different animal

 

[AmyPJ]

If I had wider bars maybe I'd have less scratches on my shoulders.

Me thinks the scratches would be on other parts of you body instead! Might be bumps and bruises, too.

I get a lot of the comments of "just go out and ride", but, when something just isn't feeling right, or the same as it has in the past, and my efficiency is suffering, I absolutely want to get to the bottom of it. It's also something I've grown accustomed to--in the horse show world (that I no longer participate in) you'd be amazed at how different shoeing and trimming of hooves will drastically change the gate of a horse. More weight, less weight, toe weight, heel weight, rolled toe, raised heel, etc. etc. So, I'm used to tinkering.

I'll also touch on what @4ster said about his wider bars and climbing--I DO know that I felt a positive different while climbing, including easier lifting the bike up and over stuff, and tight switchbacks (although my speeds do not indicate any changes.) But it's not enough of a positive impact to outweigh the headaches and decrease in speed and comfort on descents. I've never struggled with climbing (relatively speaking.) Cornering and downhill is where I need all the help I can get.

Definitely curious about "wider wheels need wider bars" tidbit. If the physics of your BODY dictate that you are most comfortable and in control on "X" width of bars, but a wider wheel/tire combo dictates more control with wider bars, which wins out?

 

[Wilhelmson]

This is of particular interest to me since next year I plan on buying a new stem and bar. I have an older cross country bike with a long stem and 720 mm bar. Since 25 cm = 1 inch, we're talking small measurements making a big difference. By a crude measurement my shoulder bone width (not broad shoulder width) is about 18 inches. I would say my current 28 inch bar (720 mm) is about the minimum size. Considering previous comments and some other information online 30 inches (760 mm) is about the midpoint based on my shoulders and height (73 inches). I plan on consulting a shop and hope they can provide some insight into how a shorter stem, which most of you already have, will factor into the equation.

The people I know with long handled new bikes are considering going shorter. I haven't heard anyone mention going longer. Perhaps they are made long to be cut down since that's cheaper than buying a new bar.

RE Wider Bar/Wheel, it could be that a larger wheel would require more leverage. The body could dictate the perfect midpoint. This would assume that the bike and geometry are already perfect for your physique and purpose; I'm sure a professional would take a more holistic approach to overall bike fitting. Much is probably up to personal preference and trial and error.

 

[AmyPJ]

They are definitely meant to be cut down-the Bontrager bars on my bike have mm markings on them for just that reason. I'm assuming all makers do the same thing?

 

[Erik Timmerman]

My bars used to be longer. I found that for me it limited my ability to corner. I couldn't tip the bike far enough because my arms couldn't reach that far.

 

[EricG]

They are definitely meant to be cut down-the Bontrager bars on my bike have mm markings on them for just that reason. I'm assuming all makers do the same thing?

Yep. Most are. Mine started at 800mm and now at 750mm. I trimmed a set to 700mm and they just didn’t feel right, I should have trimmed of 10mm on each side instead of 25mm. Sucks when you waste a nice $100+ carbon bar. I think I’d be best at ~725mm but I’m too lazy to chop down a bunch of bars.

 

[Bruuuce]

Made me look. Mine are 760mm and they feel plenty wide (I'm 71"). At least for me, 800mm bars would feel really, really wide. I'd takem to a shop and get them fitted. They might be able to get all of the settings (stem, seat, bars) right so they all work together?

 

[AmyPJ]

Yep. Most are. Mine started at 800mm and now at 750mm. I trimmed a set to 700mm and they just didn’t feel right, I should have trimmed of 10mm on each side instead of 25mm. Sucks when you waste a nice $100+ carbon bar. I think I’d be best at ~725mm but I’m too lazy to chop down a bunch of bars.

You can test widths before cutting the bars (@Tricia, you might want to try this, too.) Just move the levers and shifters and grips in, measuring each side. Go ride, being aware that your bars are wider than your hands. Ride a trail with lots of turns/switchbacks if you can. This is what I did two years ago. Somehow, this year I got it into my head that I should try the wider bars, because I kept hearing "wider is better". I rode last night with them cut down to my happy 720mm, and cornering was SO much easier. All my tire "issues" were actually a bar issue. With the wider bars, I wasn't able to lean the bike into the turns like I needed to, which meant the tires weren't gripping how I was used to, and my center of balance was jacked up.

Another thing is my go-to move when I "get into trouble" is to drop my chest, elbows out while hinging from the hips. Well, with wider bars, my chest was already dropped lower so that go-to move wasn't as effective. I couldn't absorb terrain variations as well. I felt much more dynamic last night. Can't speak to speed, as it was a social ride, and we also stopped a lot for other riders.

Moving the grips can be challenging. We use an air gun at the shop when they're on the bike, then rubbing alcohol if they're off the bike and need to be put back on. So, if you can't get them to move, maybe hit up your local shop and ask if they can blow some air under them to move them for you.

 

[Wilhelmson]

I rode last night with them cut down to my happy 720mm, and cornering was SO much easier.

Not to beat this subject to death (but that's always fair game), but for other's reference could you share your height, bike type, and stem length? From what I gather these are some factors others might consider when choosing a size.

 

[Tricia]

Mine are 750mm. Around here you will get made fun of for anything less than 800 which is ridiculous. If you look at pro riders bike checks, very few of them run bars that wide so I really don't even understand where the 800 thing is coming from.

31 inches is 787 mm according to Google.

Mine are 31 inches and I considered shortening them

At 31 inches, mine seem to be 787 mm. That seems wide compared to what other are posting.
I'll have to double check. I was wearing my sunglasses when I measured. Need reading glasses.

Nice Ripmo 4ster.

I run a 780mm bar, which seems fine. I wouldn't go any narrower, that's for sure. I am 6'3", so yeah... no issue with wingspan.

760mm. Why? Because that is what Norco thought was correct for a 120/110mm travel FS. Actually I don't think much about technical stuff. i just go ride

You can test widths before cutting the bars (@Tricia, you might want to try this, too.) Just move the levers and shifters and grips in, measuring each side. Go ride, being aware that your bars are wider than your hands. Ride a trail with lots of turns/switchbacks if you can. This is what I did two years ago. Somehow, this year I got it into my head that I should try the wider bars, because I kept hearing "wider is better". I rode last night with them cut down to my happy 720mm, and cornering was SO much easier. All my tire "issues" were actually a bar issue. With the wider bars, I wasn't able to lean the bike into the turns like I needed to, which meant the tires weren't gripping how I was used to, and my center of balance was jacked up.

Thanks for starting this thread.
I really hadn't been thinking about the bar width much, especially since I found that I liked wider than what I was riding before buying the Trigger.
I have been having big issues on switchbacks, but I chalked that up to not being a very good rider.
Now you've planted the seed and I'm going to pay more attention when we ride.

Heck, look at all the measurements of bars for all the big guys,(quoted) and I'm running 787???
Here's a picture of me on my trusty steed. Now its looking wide to me.

 

[AmyPJ]

Not to beat this subject to death (but that's always fair game), but for other's reference could you share your height, bike type, and stem length? From what I gather these are some factors others might consider when choosing a size.

I'm 5'5", riding a Trek Fuel EX 9.8 which has 130mm of travel fork and shock. Stem length is...short. It's a Bontrager Line Pro, 35mm clamp, 0 degree. There are three spacers, I have two below and one above the stem. Stock photo:

 

[Wilhelmson]

Around here you will get made fun of for anything less than 800 which is ridiculous.

Safe to say many people in Vermont these days are quite opinionated to put it nicely.

 

[Primoz]

One of best options to see what size bar you really need (not what LBS or bike producer's marketing department is trying to make you think is best for you) is to get down in plank position (on hands not elbows) and when doing this, you automatically put your hands in position that's most comfortable. Well that's your mtb handlebar width (road is different thing). Just measure between outer side of hands on floor and you cut your handlebar to this dimension. Unless you are 3m high with 1+m over your shoulders (not many of us are giants like that), you will see there's no need for extreme stuff 75, 80cm or even wider handlebars.
I know this might give you handlebar that's narrower then latest fashion trends are, but at least I want to use bike for riding, and that means comfortable and fast, and not for parading around the city bragging that my handlebar is wider then anyone elses

 

[AmyPJ]

Thanks for starting this thread.
I really hadn't been thinking about the bar width much, especially since I found that I liked wider than what I was riding before buying the Trigger.
I have been having big issues on switchbacks, but I chalked that up to not being a very good rider.
Now you've planted the seed and I'm going to pay more attention when we ride.

Heck, look at all the measurements of bars for all the big guys,(quoted) and I'm running 787???
Here's a picture of me on my trusty steed. Now its looking wide to me.
View attachment 76409

Play around with it--move the grips and levers. 787 is definitely very wide. Some people like the wider bars. But there is definitely a balance point that can be messed up. Part of cornering, and being able to negotiate rock gardens and other obstacles, is being able to push down on the inside bar and stay balanced over the bike. (Helps avoid pedal strikes, too.) The longer bars were pushing me back, it felt like. Makes sense, as I had to reach further, so to counter balance, I would lean the rest of my body, especially my hips, back. Then I'd lose traction on the front tire.

I felt like the wider bars were a touch more stable on straight, fast sections, but I don't ride many of those. At all. I looked it up, and Trek specs the Fuel, with 130mm of travel, with 750mm bars, and the Remedy, with 150mm of travel, with 780mm bars. It seems that maybe a slacker bike with more travel plays better with wider bars? But again, the one-size-fits-all doesn't work for all, especially smaller people. They are definitely made to be cut down to size.

 

[AmyPJ]

One of best options to see what size bar you really need (not what LBS or bike producer's marketing department is trying to make you think is best for you) is to get down in plank position (on hands not elbows) and when doing this, you automatically put your hands in position that's most comfortable. Well that's your mtb handlebar width (road is different thing). Just measure between outer side of hands on floor and you cut your handlebar to this dimension. Unless you are 3m high with 1+m over your shoulders (not many of us are giants like that), you will see there's no need for extreme stuff 75, 80cm or even wider handlebars.
I know this might give you handlebar that's narrower then latest fashion trends are, but at least I want to use bike for riding, and that means comfortable and fast, and not for parading around the city bragging that my handlebar is wider then anyone elses

I tried this, and found that I can plank comfortably in a variety of positions. I put a tape measure under my left palm, and stretched it out and set my right palm on it with my eyes closed in what felt like a good plank position. I got several results. I think it's not a bad starting point, for sure. I will say, at 28.5 inches (which is 723.9 mm) I felt probably the most stable and strong through the core, too.

 

[Lauren]

I'm currently running 760mm on my trail bike (Scott Genius), and 800mm on my downhill (Scott Gambler). I've felt comfortable with both. I'm on my third season on the Genius, and second on the Gambler. I haven't experimented with anything else on these two bikes. The only experience I have with other bars would have been on different bikes. (I'm 5'5", for reference)

I would think there is so much that goes into the "best" width in regards to bike geometry. For instance, I ride a size small bike, but I could easily ride a medium based on my height and body geometry. However, I like the maneuverability of the small, with a short, wide reach. If I wanted a longer wheel base and went up to the medium, I'd probably have to cut the bars down a bit to keep a similar comfortable bend in my arms.

Similarly, the reach on my Gambler is shorter than the reach on my Genius...therefore I can run wider bars with keeping a similar comfort level.