Help With Sram Guide Rs Brakes

[Slaverson]

So last night I was working on my derailleur and I was listening for any grinding or rubbing of sorts and I took off my brake caliper just to make it a little quieter.

I forgot that I had taken off the caliper and after I got my wheel spinning fast I pressed the brake lever and realized it did nothing.'

I managed to put the pistons back in place on the caliper and fit my pads back inside, but now when I press down my brake lever, nothing happens. I can easily push the lever to the handlebars and nothing is happening. The pistons do not move at all and the pads do not stop the rotor.

How do I fix this?

Do I need to "burp" or bleed the brakes again? (I sure hope not because they were bled a few weeks ago)

Anything will help

Thanks

 

[scott43]

Yup time to bleed them. Welcome to hydraulic brakes. They're great until they suck.

 

[Erik Timmerman]

Yeah, you're gonna need to bleed those. You probably need new brake pads too. Make sure you clean that rotor really, really well.

 

[Slaverson]

@scott43 Thanks man, I was thinking about it and I realized when one of my pistons came out a lot a bunch of air got in there.

 

[Wilhelmson]

Similarly, I was changing a tire and my kid squeezed the brakes with the wheel out. The piston pushed out too far so I had to open the bleed valve and push the pistons back in. It just about fixed the problem but they still rub a little.

 

[EricG]

I’m late to the party. But feel the same way as the others. But make sure that piston seal didn’t get damaged when you put the piston back in the housing.

 

[blackke17]

yeah these brakes work great but not easy to mess with . i loosened up one screw due to rubbing and my brakes disappeared on me - 70 bucks later i got front brakes again!

 

[Ross Biff]

These are not the easiest brakes to work on and are not very tolerant of worn pads, especially if you need to re set the pistons in their bores after an accidental lever squeeze with the wheel out. The pistons can also get contaminated with dust and dirt if they are pushing way out to compensate for worn pads so they need to be thoroughly cleaned before they are re set. I've worked on quite a few sets that also seemed intolerant of temperature and altitude changes but they do work very well with a fastidious set up. When in doubt, new pads, brake bleed and fresh fluid!

 

[EricG]

After the last iteration of Guide brakes I stopped being s SRAM/RS dealer. I spent way too much time warrentying brakes. There were plenty of SRAM dealers around to refer folks too.

 

[ZionPow]

I have SRAM Guide ultimate and I had a similar situation. I took it to my LBS and they checked it and said there is a warranty issue with the Guide brakes. It has to do with the tolerance designed in the piston in the brake lever mechanism. The shop ordered the parts and replaced them at no cost. They work great now.

 

[Erik Timmerman]

I had to bleed some Guide RS the other day. What a pain, the service video showed the wrong kind of strings and bleed nipple. It was pretty confusing! Got an OK bleed from it, but Shimano and Hope are both way easier.

 

[EricG]

I had to bleed some Guide RS the other day. What a pain, the service video showed the wrong kind of strings and bleed nipple. It was pretty confusing! Got an OK bleed from it, but Shimano and Hope are both way easier.

They are such a PIA to bleed. I’ve never gotten more than an ‘OK’ bleed from them no matter what technique I tried with the factory bleed kit. I’ve got Magura Trail MT carbons on all my stuff and Shimano on the gravel. Hope is easy to bleed too.