Help me get my edges sharper

[skifastflylow1]

I am in New England-lots and lots of ice.
I have been tuning my family’s skis for 2 years and with 2 racers there is a need for consistently sharp edges.
GS skis are tuned to 1/3 and SL are .5/3.
I am using moonflex stones with bevel guides for the sides and a beast for the bases.
I tune from 400 grit up to 1500 to try to get them as sharp as possible, but it feels like I can do more.
I grew up on hockey skates, so I know what sharp edges can do and what they feel like.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[KingGrump]

If you are using only diamond stones then you are not really sharpening the skis. You are only performing deburring and polishing operation on the skis.

You nee to get a bastard file (or one of the new fangle edge grinders to get the skis really sharp again.

Here are couple of Toko videos on edge and base edge tuning.

 

[zeppo55]

Also taking down the sidewall is key.

 

[François Pugh]

My 2 cents were already spent above: 1 - make sure the sidewall isn't in the way; 2- Sometimes you need to file.
When you file, don't get alarmed at the amount of metal you take off; If the ski needs filing, some metals gonna go.

 

[James]

Don't touch the base edge unless it's damaged. - Other than remove the burr after you file. You do not have to "sharpen" the base edge.

No file, no sharp. Use a loop or magnifying glass to see what's going on with the edge. Chairlift footrests without rubber or missing rubber, damaged rubber cause lots of damage to a sharp edge.

1,500 grit for slalom or gs is overkill. If you're not filing sometimes, you're just polishing dull anyway.
Save time, no need to go that far with kids. Speed event, ok.
Otherwise, 400 is ok. When they get to the point they're doing their own sharpening they can take it further if they want.

 

[skifastflylow1]

This is all very helpful. Thank you!!
I do take care of the sidewalls with a tool.
What are the recommended files the side edges?

 

[otto]

This video has good info on side edging tools...

 

[oldschoolskier]

Consider bumping up the side to a 4.

Think of it as a net difference on the edge. a 1/3 is net 88 a 0.5/3 is net 87.5 so....a 1/4 is a net 87 and a 0.5/4 is a net 86.5.

Base has remained the same so the response of the ski should remain very similar, yet the net edge angle has been decreased (ie sharper) so the bit should be greater. If you find it too much it does not shorten the life too much as you only need to do one pass and take it back to 3.

 

[ScotsSkier]

Use an 8inch Swix file and then maintain with a 200 stone, using the file again every 5-10 days as required

 

[BGreen]

... and a beast for the bases.

I think I found your problem.

Do you have any suggestions?

Yep, throw those things in the trash. Side Of Beast is an excellent tool. IMO the best file guide available. The base guides are garbage. If you're not careful, you can get much more bevel than you think you're getting.

Next, buy an edger. The Swix or Razor Tune on the low end, Black Diamond Innovation or Snowglide on the high end. The amount of time you will save in massive, you will get a sharper edge than you can get by hand, and your skis will last longer.

 

[Primoz]

As few already mentioned... leave base alone. Unless you hit some rocks or damage edge otherwise, there's no need to file base. Also, forget about machines. If they are any good, they cost fortune, and they don't make skis any sharper then you can by hand. There are only 2 plus things with machines... edges last longer, as they take off less material then you would with hand, and sharpness last a bit longer then when you do it by hand.
Main thing is to use proper file, preferably fine one not bastard file as someone suggested, and file away. Bastard file is used to set edge, but once your edge is set, it doesn't have anything to do near skis anymore. After you are done with file, 2 or 3 passes with diamond stone (freehand) is all you need. There's no need for endless polishing (noone is doing that even on downhill skis for WC race), and there's also no need to file guide when working with diamond stones. That, if properly executed, should give you so sharp skis, you can cut your finger off with. And something that skates would be completely unbearable to skate with if they would be this sharp

 

[skifastflylow1]

Thanks to all for your guidance. I should have asked sooner!

 

[n black]

Great advice above. With pretty much all forms of sharpening, be it knives, chisels, skates or skis, the real sharpness comes from using a aggressive enough tool to establish the right geometry, and the finer grits are just for refinement, polishing and burr removal. They should be really sharp right after the initial filing is done - but perhaps still a bit "rough" - if that makes any sense at all. You can't get a dull edge sharp with 1500 or likely even 400 grit. (Yeah, and get that sidewall out of the way!)

 

[BGreen]

(Yeah, and get that sidewall out of the way!)

That needs repeating.

 

[James]

You should look at this thread. Just don't get lost in the diversions.

https://www.pugski.com/threads/main...e-edges-sharp-in-between-tune-ups.7852/unread