March 7th - 9th
Time to finish off the writing for this blog. I'm back safe in Denver after a long journey back. It was a longer than usual return trip: after the flight from Srinagar back to Delhi (delayed due to snow, so nearly 4 hours as we had a stop in Jammu), then the flight to Newark was also delayed for 2 hours, so we didn't end up leaving Delhi until after 1am. The flight was also diverted to Frankfurt so they could avoid flying over Pakistan and that meant 10 hours flying to Frankfurt, 1.5 hours to refuel and change crew, then 8.5 hours to fly to Newark. Then it was straight onto the flight back to Denver and another 4 hours. That was the longest flight I have ever done I think at over 28 hours in the air, not including transit time......
Anyway, back to the blog. On the 7th, I had to say goodbye to my group and head down to Srinagar with my guide Jeremy and two of his guests. Jeremy had not stayed on the houseboats before and my group wanted to stay in Gulmarg for one more night, so they stayed up and I had one of our local guides Ahanger, guide the group for one extra day of skiing. I had organized transport back to the airport, for people needing it on the 8th.
It was hectic drive down to Srinagar, as it usually is. We stopped at Dal Lake at Stream restaurant, for lunch and some more Butter Chicken. Then we headed across to the houseboats by Shikara (water taxi) and it was time to unwind. It was a much needed getaway, time to de-stress from all the tensions of the past week with the India/Pakistan. It's a great way to unwind, chilling out on the houseboats and watching the world slowly pass-by. This was exactly what I needed.....
We were up early at 630am to visit the floating vegetable markets on the 8th. This is behind the houseboats in a clearing about a 30 minute paddle away from our boat. Here the vegetable growers on Dal Lake sell to market stall owners, houseboat owners and anyone else needing to buy bulk quantities of veggies. It's always a fun time watching the traders do their business. Then it was time to paddle back to our boat for a shower and breakfast. Then around 9am it was time for the two guests to head off to the airport. Then it was just Jeremy and I.
Rather than just sit around, we decided to call up my friend and local guide Asil, to take us around touring for a couple of days. The first day we focused on the Dal Lake area and the newer parts of Srinagar. We visited a Buddhist/Muslim shrine on a hilltop above Srinagar (Shankaracharya temple, but you couldn't take photos as it is also a military area, but the views of Dal Lake were great) and then headed to the Royal Srinagar Golf Club and then to Pari Mahal (an old center for astronomy and a library, with a lovely garden and views of Dal Lake).
Then we headed into the new part of the city. Asil took us to an amazing restaurant, Ahdoos Restaurant in Lal Chowk. They serve the best Kashmiri Wazwan (small, multi-course dishes that are very tasty) and have been operating since 1918. It's an awesome place and well-worth checking out if you are in the area. We finished the day with a nice walk along the Jhelum river and a walk over bridge 1, a pedestrian only bridge that is a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. That was it for the day and we headed back to the houseboat for a relaxing evening.
The next day (9th March) we headed into the Old City with Asil. We started in the Mughal Fort (the Zaberwan Fort) with amazing views of Srinagar and Dal Lake. We had some Led Zeppelin playing (the song Kashmir) as we drove around the city, that was pretty cool. Then he took us into the Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in Kashmir which can accommodate up to 30,000 worshipers with way more outside. Then we wondered the streets of Old Srinagar, spending some time watching workers nickle-plate copper plates and dinning ware in dingy backstreets. That was really interesting and we met plenty of friendly locals. Then we had lunch at Goodfellow's restaurant, a place popular with young Kashmiri students. They were playing some live music and we were warmly greeted. We had a nice tandoori chicken lunch and listened to a few songs before heading back to the houseboats. The houseboat has a small boat and we took that for a spin around the lake and through the canals. The locals got a kick out of that and it was a great way to finish the day.......
Heading to Stream restaurant for some awesome Butter Chicken..... yep, I do enjoy me some Butter Chicken!
Chilling out in the living room of the houseboats. A great way to relax and unwind after a trip to Gulmarg.
Evening over Dal Lake....
Awesome, a little eveing snack of chicken tikka, cooked right in front of us.
400 rupees for 4 skewers.
Dal Lake life....
The sunsets. It's hard to take a bad photo with this backdrop...
The Zaberwan fort.
Up at 6:30am for a visit to the floating vegetable markets.
Vegetable trading
Myself and Jeremy enjoying the views from Pari Mahal
This was a center for astrology and they had a library here
Lovely gardens getting ready for spring
Hole #1 at the Royal Srinagar Golf Club
Asil taking is to Ahdoos restaurant for some "baby Wazwan."
Love the fresh lime (lemon) soda.
A newer mosque on the banks of the Jhelum river.
The Jhelum river flows all the way to Pakistan.
Tuk-tuk ride through Srinagar. Lot's of fun!
The Zaberwan fort
Amazing views over to Old Srinagar.
Amazing views of Dal Lake
The Zaberwan fort from the Jama Masjid
Old City architecture
Rolling the dice with some street food in the Old City. These are fired potato slices and onion. They were quite good and we didn't get sick!
Nickle-plating copper items in the backstreets of Old Srinagar.
Copper salesman. He was a nice guy and we chatted for a while.
Jhelum river flowing through the Old City
One of many bridges that cross the Jhelum river
Stopping in at Cafe Liberty, very popular with students but they didn't have room for us so we went to Goodfellows.
Taking the small boat out for a spin and it was literally a spin. It took us a while to figure out how to make it go straight.
Heading back to the airport
We had amazing views of Gulmarg (the center mountain) which are rare from Dal Lake. This photo doesn't do it justice unfortunately.
- Matt