Evo link to factory edge bevel levels

[GregK]

List of different manufactures and models with their factory edge bevels.

https://www.evo.com/guides/ski-edge-bevel

 

[dbostedo]

Interesting... thanks for the link.

 

[Noodler]

And once again, completely irrelevant. What a manufacturer recommends for bevels should have no impact on what your personal preferences are.

 

[jmeb]

And once again, completely irrelevant. What a manufacturer recommends for bevels should have no impact on what your personal preferences are.

Agree and disagree.

Yes it's irrelevant for what your personal preferences are.

But it is relevant for a lot of other things:

- A shop matching factory specs when tuning, if owner liked original tune.
- Or checking that skis are in spec to factory tune. (For example, I'm interested that some skis i bought came with a 1.3/3 tune supposedly...that's quite an interesting choice -- lots of bevel and aggressive side for an AM/powder ski.)
- Some manufactures specify differences because they design/expect their ski to ski the best at that tune -- for the general pop.

 

[GregK]

And once again, completely irrelevant. What a manufacturer recommends for bevels should have no impact on what your personal preferences are.

Sometimes yes and sometimes no.
Most manufactures you can tweak the edges to your preference but there are many skis like Moment and ON3P that usually ski best when you follow their factory levels and detuning practices. Got a pair of almost new Moment Bibby’s that the previous owner “didn’t get along with” and must have tweaked the edges to the settings of his other skis. Same levels as what I usually ski as well(1/3) so decided to try them out that way. They skied awful and were very catchy. Returned to factory settings and they were transformed.

I’d look at factory settings as a reference guide even if you usually like certain edge bevel levels. If the guide is showing a normal factory base level of 1.5 and you like 1, keep in mind you’re going to need a base grind to reset it to your levels. Gives you an idea of the factory is setting levels close to your preference and maybe a simple hand tune will be all you need.
Also if your preferred levels are different than normal factory ones and you’re ever getting them tuned, be sure to mention your preferred levels otherwise they may set to factory settings.

 

[GregK]

Agree and disagree.

Yes it's irrelevant for what your personal preferences are.

But it is relevant for a lot of other things:

- A shop matching factory specs when tuning, if owner liked original tune.
- Or checking that skis are in spec to factory tune. (For example, I'm interested that some skis i bought came with a 1.3/3 tune supposedly...that's quite an interesting choice -- lots of bevel and aggressive side for an AM/powder ski.)
- Some manufactures specify differences because they design/expect their ski to ski the best at that tune -- for the general pop.

Great minds think alike! Lol
Must have been writing my post when you sent your and you beat me by 5 mins.

 

[Noodler]

But both of your posts basically make an assumption that edge bevels are "part of the design" of a ski from the manufacturer. Nope. There is no such thing as the best bevel "for the ski". It's the best bevel "for you" when you ski those skis. Whether or not skis have screwed up bevels is a completely separate issue. Precision in edge bevels is critical; that I can agree with.

 

[DanoT]

Also if your preferred levels are different than normal factory ones and you’re ever getting them tuned, be sure to mention your preferred levels otherwise they may set to factory settings.

Whenever, in the west, that I have asked a shop what bevel they go with if the customer doesn't specify (shop should have asked or didn't or more likely the customer had no idea what he/she wanted) the answer that I have got is 1/1...can't risk having a customer catch an edge I guess.

 

[jmeb]

Nope. There is no such thing as the best bevel "for the ski".

Ok...well you can make the same exact argument for the mount point of a ski.

There is not "best". What is best is what you like the most.

That doesn't mean that a designer doesn't consider what they think will be a popular tune that matches the designed performance characteristics of a ski.

While a ski might have been designed around a -7 mount point, I might prefer how it skis at -6.

Similarly, a ski might have been designed with the grip/responsiveness (or lack thereof) of a 1/1 tune, but i like them at 1.5/3.

Reality check: 98% of skiers do not know what bevel and side angle is. 1% more know what they tune to. <1% know how various choices impact ski performance and have personal preferences for specific skis. Probably 1 out of 100 skis out of the box gets a tune right away.

As such, it makes sense for factory spec to exist and vary for the specific use for the vast vast majority of users.

 

[GregK]

Whenever, in the west, that I have asked a shop what bevel they go with if the customer doesn't specify (shop should have asked or didn't or more likely the customer had no idea what he/she wanted) the answer that I have got is 1/1...can't risk having a customer catch an edge I guess.

Agreed! All it takes is one caught edge at 50 plus mph on perfectly level and tuned edges that weren’t the same as Moment factory levels to let me know that MAYBE the factory was on to something....lol
Rental ski base levels are typically in the 2 plus range and heavily detuned throughout to avoid catching.

My edges and bases are tuned/waxed daily and touched up out West during the day and I was surprised how different all my pairs of Moments skis perform when you deviate from factory practices. All my other 28 pairs of the last few years from other companies I could adjust edges to my preference without issue.

 

[François Pugh]

No Fischer stats?

 

[GregK]

No Fischer stats?

Remember seeing on another site recently that listed Fisher as “All models 1/3”

 

[NE1]

Also if your preferred levels are different than normal factory ones and you’re ever getting them tuned, be sure to mention your preferred levels otherwise they may set to factory settings.

- or whatever "universal" bevel they use for all customers regardless of what was requested because they are too opinionated about one bevel, too lazy, or too incompetent to change it.

 

[Dwight]

Looks like a confirmation to have your skis ground to what you want brand new. The +- alone on some of these is kinda funny.

 

[Henry]

Looks like a confirmation to have your skis ground to what you want brand new. The +- alone on some of these is kinda funny.

And...sometimes the factory tunes the skis before the epoxy has cured completely. By the time we get the skis they're cupped and ski just awful until the bottoms are ground flat.

Set the edge angles that work for you with your skiing style and your expected snow conditions. I like my carvers at .7 & 3°. I do my powder skis at 1 & 2, 'cuz the less acute angle results in a small divot out of the edge when I hit a rock. My Stöcklis felt much better to me after the factory structure was changed.

 

[Jacques]

And once again, completely irrelevant. What a manufacturer recommends for bevels should have no impact on what your personal preferences are.

And what's more, is that many skis come with an inconsistent tune from the factory anyway. The tune may not match any spec. listed.
Best to always tune your skis to what you like. Do it yourself.
If you ask some shop for a given tune, you might not even get what you think you are getting.
Now you will only become more confused as to what you like or think you like.
Forget about "factory" tunes. Tune your own skis, then you will know.

 

[Marker]

Remember seeing on another site recently that listed Fisher as “All models 1/3”

When I asked about my Ranger 115, this is what I was told. I wondered why anyone would put that tune on a freeride/powder ski? When I checked the tune with guides and diamond stones, it appeared to be correct, but I'm not an expert tuner. I've only skied these several times at Killington in fresh snow, so haven't had to use anything other than stones so far.

My older model Hero Elite LT were also said to be 1/3 by the shop I purchased them from, and they also checked out. These don't have the R22 plate like in the Evo link, so maybe the manufacturers change their tuning specs over time? After skiing the Heros for awhile, I started tuning all my skis to 1/3.

 

[Noodler]

When I asked about my Ranger 115, this is what I was told. I wondered why anyone would put that tune on a freeride/powder ski? When I checked the tune with guides and diamond stones, it appeared to be correct, but I'm not an expert tuner. I've only skied these several times at Killington in fresh snow, so haven't had to use anything other than stones so far.

My older model Hero Elite LT were also said to be 1/3 by the shop I purchased them from, and they also checked out. These don't have the R22 plate like in the Evo link, so maybe the manufacturers change their tuning specs over time? After skiing the Heros for awhile, I started tuning all my skis to 1/3.

1/3 is generally only used for hard snow duties, so I am surprised to hear that Fischer puts that on the 115 FR; a ski that really only makes sense in deep soft conditions.

 

[Marker]

1/3 is generally only used for hard snow duties, so I am surprised to hear that Fischer puts that on the 115 FR; a ski that really only makes sense in deep soft conditions.

Mine are the 115 XTi, but I agree.

 

[mdf]

1/3 is generally only used for hard snow duties

I've never understood this. Why not put a real edge on a powder ski? It's not going to hurt on soft snow, and if you hit ice on the way back to the lift you will have something to work with.