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General European hut to hut tours

Slim

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@SkiFiore and I were discussing some ideas for hut to hut skitouring in Europe.

Hoping people can add suggested routes/areas and reviews here to help others.

I am most familiar with the Alps, but perhaps @Rod9301 can chime in with some Info about the Pyrenees.
@jmeb has a great trip report up on TGR:

Here are some articles and descriptions, giving an idea of different regions. Many of these a pages from guiding companies. I don’t have any experience with the specific guides, I am only posting them here as a general info about the tours.

https://alpsinsight.com/the-alps-hut-system/ mostly talks about Switzerland, but most of this is the same in all alpine countries.


http://www.mountainschool.com/europe-ski-tours good overview of some classic tours, listed with “best for” points.

https://www.proguiding.com/guided-trips/international-ski-tours.html a good overview to compare the different tours.


Austria has so many huts, that the different variations of multi day tours and traverses are nearly limitless.
Here is a trip resort from the Oetztal:

A less visited range known for it’s sunny weather and steep terrain is the Ecrins and Queras, in the southern French Alps:
 
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Slim

Slim

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For those not familiar with mountain huts in the Alps, let me give brief description.

All though there are unmanned huts in the Alps, most of the huts are staffed, meaning food prep and cleaning is taken care of. In winter some huts are closed but offer a ‘winter raum’: an unmanned section similar to American huts, where you heat with a wood stove and collect your own water and cook.

The manned huts can be thought of as ‘economy class hotels’. This makes multi day ski trips much more enjoyable, since you don’t need to carry sleepingbags, tents stove and food, resulting in a backpack you can actually ski with!

When you arrive, tell the guardian you are spending the night. They will then direct you to the overnight entrance to the boot room.
This is where you leave your ski-or hiking-boots. There will be crocs provide for you to use in the hut. You also leave crampons and ice axes here, they are not allowed in the sleeping areas!

Some huts have private rooms, some have a long row of matresses. Some have hot showers, some don’t have running water. Most have indoor toilets these days though.
Typically in the afternoon, the hut operates like a cafe, selling drinks and cake or snacks a la carte. Then at dinner time, everyone is served the same meal. Unlike a restaurant, you don’t get to choose. 3 courses are common, but 5 course meals also happen, especialy in Italy!

Unlike backcountry lodges in Canada, the buildings and furnature tend to be basic. You don’t usually find couches or such, just simple tables and benches, both inside and out.

Some people will stay awake after dinner, and buy drinks in the dining room, while others head to bed soon after, in preparation of an early start, known as an alpine start.
Most huts will have you settle your bill before you go to bed.
Because of this, you should have your gear for bedtime and the next morning all set out before dinner, so you don't have to go rustling around in your pack when someone else is asleep next to your bunk. Avoid plastic shopping bags for the same reason! And, as @jmeb mentioned in the packing thread, use a dim, red light on your headlamp.

Mattresses, pillows and blankets/duvets are provided, but you need to bring your own sleeping bag liner. I highly recommend a silk one, they are far lighter than cotton or polyester ones.

In the morning breakfast will be basic, often self serve. In huts that don’t have running potable water, there will be specific tea available to fill your water bottle for the day.
Many huts sell lunches to take along for the day, but not all, make sure to check this.
 
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charlier

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From my limited experience, many ski tours such as the Haute Route, require skiing/skinning almost every day hut-to-hut. With some cool and wonderful variations, based on conditions and experience, you are trying to cover ground each day.

Since 2012, my wife and I decided that we want more focused downhill skiing rather than the daily hut-to-hut experience. We usually, skin up to a hut/refugio that offers choices of terrain, with varying exposure, vertical, and conditions. We get up for an early breakfast and ski tour until mid-afternoon (depending on avalanche hazards) and return to the hut for an espresso and great food. After ~3-4 days, we ski down to town for showers, thermal springs (?), and great food. Afterwards, we skin up to a different hut, seeking better snow conditions (or lower avalanche hazards) elsewhere.

Consider, hiring an IFMGA guide. The guides really know where fine the best skiing and mitigate avalanche risk. If anyone is interested in suggestions for hiring a guide, send me a PM (I have zero financial interest here).
 

Mike King

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I know next to nothing about hut trips in general or in Europe specifically. But when a group of us were considering the Haute Route, my heliguide, an IFMGA full mountain guide who guides extensively in Europe, suggested the Silvretta instead. He said it had far fewer visitors, better snow, better huts, and better food.

Mike
 

James

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I saw a presentation by a couple in Dillon, CO who had done the Haute Route. I talked to one, and a few things were a little surprising. One, you have to budget water $, which is about 10€/liter. Two, it was always “go,go,go!” With the guide.

I remember thinking at the time how crazy the constant time pressure was. Then, like the next year, with a group of 3 and a guide in the Vallee Blanche, experienced the same thing. Basically had to take photos while moving. In that case the guide was trying to get us to another spot in the afternoon in Brevent. Talk about a crazy day. Rappelling into a couloir. “wait, did he say over rocks?” Yes.
 
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Slim

Slim

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@charlier raises a great point.

What are you looking to do? If you are moving to a new hut every day, like the clasic tours, That means there is less time to seek out good ski descents, especially if the daily distance between the huts is ambitious for your group.

So, if the skiing is your priority, rather than “traveling through the mountains”, it is wise to either do as @charlier says, or do a tour that has short daily distances between the huts, and has at at least two huts where you spend an additional night, rather than moving on right away every day.

So, it comes down to your goals, and knowing yourself.
 

charlier

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Great thread.
@Slim is on the mark. After many years, touring in the USA, Canada, and the Alps, my wife and I seek out a nice hut where we could have 2-3 days of great touring and skiing. If the conditions go south, we drive to a different region or take a day or two off and visit awesome mountain towns and relax. Also, similar to finding an exceptional ski instructor, use due diligence for hiring a IFMGA guide. Lastly, @MikeKing suggests, if you are interested in a week long, multi-day hut trip, there are many such routes and the Haute Route is one popular tour.
 

Choucas

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It all depends on what you are looking to do. The long, multi-day hut to hut trips get you maximum mountain time. Famous routes like Haute Route are spectacular, but the huts can be crowded, the skin tracks are often crowded and you really don’t get a lot of memorable downhill skiing. But the tour itself is memorable and a great experience. I would encourage any fit, advanced level skier to go. Fitness is more important than ski ability. It can be a go-go-go kind of experience. The guides need to move the group along to get from A to B on a reasonable schedule to insure the safety of the group. There always sees to be someone who is slow to get going in the morning, fumbles with his/her gear, gets distracted taking photos, drops stuff, forgets stuff, doesn’t pay attention.
Keep in mind that the weather can throw your plans out the window. I’ve done the Haute Route 3 times and it never went off as planned. The trips in Austria like the Oetztal, Silvretta, Grossglockner, the Ortler in Italy, the Oberland and Imperial Crown in Switzerland offer more summits than the Haute Route and can be technically more difficult, but you don’t get as many long days on the trail.
To me, the best options are ones that are hotel based and use lifts to gain altitude out of the valley. From there you can head for the best snow, put skins on when needed, and use the public transportation network or an occasional taxi to get you back to where you started. Accommodations are more comfortable, it’s warmer, your gear dries out, beds with sheets, running water, big breakfasts, great food. And if the weather craps out, you can still get out and ski something rather than being hut bound or forced to abandon the trip. I’ve often done this out of small areas where the price is right, the crowds are small, and the skiing is great as long as Mother Nature is mostly cooperative.
Agree that finding a good guide is key. There are plenty of on line resources on where to go, and guides offering their services. Where possible, use a local guide or better yet, an English speaking guide who lives and works in that area. Unless you have a lot of experience doing this, I would not recommend going on you own. It’s not that hard to do on you own when the snow and weather are nice, but when things start to go bad, the guide makes all the difference. OK to PM with questions.
 

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