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Mike King

AKA Habacomike
Instructor
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Posts
3,386
Location
Louisville CO/Aspen Snowmass
Lots of misery there and many lessons. A group of friends and acquaintances have been considering a Haute Route trip. I ran into a former colleague of mine who's attempted the Haute Route twice and not completed it due to the difficulty and he's a world-class mountaineer. The skiing can be tough and the weather is a huge factor. I've decided I'm out on that route.

Thanks for posting this.

Mike
 
Thread Starter
TS
Nobody

Nobody

Out of my mind, back in five.
Skier
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Posts
1,277
Location
Ponte di legno Tonale
That's the spirit with which I read the piece I linked to. Even small mistakes, done at the wrong time, can be fatal. As my (flight) instructor used to say: "Up there, even 2+2 almost never equals to 4"
 

karlo

Out on the slopes
Inactive
Joined
May 11, 2017
Posts
2,708
Location
NJ
Here's a slightly less sensationalized account.

I like the first article, in the OP, for its discussion about communications and decision making.

I now better appreciate our guide's, in a tour last month in Argentina, decision to turn back. Photo of the decision point here,

https://www.pugski.com/threads/photo-of-the-day.2083/page-35#post-272195

The valley we climbed up from had cleared. The skies above us were clearing. All was going as weather-forecasted. BUT, the opposite valley was still totally blanketed by cloud and fog. By the time we had to drop in to make the next hut at a reasonable time, it had not cleared. To get down to the valley, traverses across hardpack and rocks with crampons would be needed by those, including me, new to using crampons. Then, of course, me and my demonstrated slowness. I am less experienced and would have gone along with whatever the guide decided. But, I was sure relieved he decided to turn back, even though I'd have to make the tough climb back to this ridge again the next day.
 
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NZRob

Skiing the Rock
Skier
Joined
Oct 8, 2017
Posts
407
Location
New Zealand
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