International (Europe/Japan/NZ/Aus) Chile 2019 Trip Report - Nevados de Chillan

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Hola amigos,
Freshly back from NZ (and still jet-lagged, I think I feel worse after the return leg, rather than the outward leg? Just something I've noticed over the years), but it's time to head back down south and back to Chile, with 4 weeks skiing at Nevados de Chillan. This will be summer number 4 down in Chile and I'm looking forward to skiing some pow. We got the views in NZ, but we didn't get the snow. Hopefully this trip will make up for that.

So far, the southern resorts in Chile are doing really well this season. Admittedly, I haven't been keeping too much up to date with what's happening further north and the resorts closer to Santiago, but I don't think they are doing quite as well as the south. Nevados de Chillan has been having a great season with more than 4m of snowfalls and a great base established. I believe they have been a little busier this summer due to the north not having quite as much snow. Hopefully as August progresses, it will start to quieten down.

This season I have a couple of groups coming down. Most of my guests are from the US, but we have some from the UK and also Australia. I know most of the people on the trip already, only 1 person I have not met before. Should be a good crew. Fingers crossed there is a storm brewing for the second day of the trip (11th August). Would love to get some powder turns in early.

I think for this trip, given I did a lot of writing for the NZ trip and I've been reporting from N de C for a few years now, I think I'll be focusing more on photos and video's rather than copious amounts of writing. I will pick up the slack when I do the second trip report in September when I head down to Corralco and Antillanca. They will be new trips so I will give more focus to them. So, fingers crossed for a fun and safe time. The adventure starts tomorrow!

- Matt
 
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It’s been a week or so since I arrived in Chile, so what has been happening? Lets’ go through it all…… I arrived in Concepcion on the 9th August after a decent flight in from Denver, via Houston and Santiago. There were no problems to report during my travels. I headed straight to the Ibis Concepcion with one of my other guests, Bob, also from CO. My other guest and friend, John, his flight from Dallas was delayed so he did not arrive till the next morning, on the 10th. We also had Louise from the UK and Dr. Billy, from the US Virgin Islands arriving that afternoon too. Our local guide Manuel, arrived at noon and we went across to the Concepcion mall, to pick up some last-minute items. All the guests arrived safely that afternoon with all the luggage, so off we went.

First stop was the Motoneta 3 restaurant outside Chillan. That was really nice, we had a couple of BBQ meat platters and salads, that was a great way to start the trip. We arrived after 8pm, checked-in and then went straight through the indoor avi safety training. Our other guest, Dave, from the UK (he is skiing with Manuel) was already at the accommodation after arriving a few days earlier. That took until about 11:30pm and then I had to get my gear ready, so I didn’t get to bed until about 1am.

The next day, we were up early and headed to the mountain for about 9:30am. A storm had just started and it was snowing quite hard. We had a couple of runs to stretch the legs and check out everyone’s skiing with a nice lap in the Freeride Zone after traversing from the Nono T-bar. Then we had to start on-snow avi training. Everyone did a great job with their single burials and we enjoyed a nice beer to celebrate the start of the trip, at our usual watering hole, the hotel Alto Nevados. We had a really nice meal at Oliva’s Restaurant, just up the road.

The 12th August saw bluebird skies and more than 30cm’s of fresh. It was quite busy, all the locals were out and everyone was getting out after it, but we managed to ski plenty of fresh lines. Stability was great and all the steep runs were in play. We skied first tracks in the bowl above the Otto chair and then skied an awesome run down the skier’s right side of Tres Marias, with no other lines in there. That was the best snow and line I’ve had in Tres Marias. After lunch we did some more beacon training.

On the 13th August, it was a lot quieter, all the locals were happier with the previous day’s powder and we had the mountain to ourselves again. It was starting to warm up, but we had a great session skiing the bowls high above Otto into the Pirigallo Valley. We had a couple of people in the group who had not skinned before, so I went through a whole progression, to show them the skills necessary. There was a lot to go through, but there is great terrain to learn in a progressive way (putting all the gear on, push and glide, using the climbing aids, round turns, VAV/AVA turns, kick turns, downhill kick turns, downhilling on skins, transitioning back to downhill mode). It took an hour or so to go through all of that, before we got to the top of the run. We had some nice soft untouched snow on our run. We did one more after lunch.

On the 14th August, it was really starting to warm up (11 degrees Celsius at the top of Cornicia chair). The crew was keen to try and get up higher, but the winds were ripping (75kmph up high) and the Otto and Mirador chairs were closed. We took the Cornicia chair up and traversed across past Mirador chair, to start skinning up towards the Volcan Nevados de Chillan. We skinned for about 3 hours and then enjoyed a long run down. We stayed quite far right and came to the Refugio Gargantua Del Diablo, an old hut that people sometimes stay in. I have seen it many times but not been in there before. That was pretty cool to see.

We skinned again on the 15th August, with the plan to get up even higher. The winds had calmed down slightly and the winds had dropped a little, so we headed straight to the Volcan Nevados de Chillan. This time we got all the way up to the side of it and around the backside. We ended up on top of a secondary peak. We had amazing views of the upper Andes range, into Argentina. Then we had a massive ski down, back to the Tres Marias area, coming out near the Refugio again. It was a long day with a decent amount of effort, but very rewarding. We celebrated the day with a visit to a new BBQ Steakhouse, just down the road from our accommodation. I had a massive Tomahawk steak (for science) and everyone really enjoyed the food. That will have to be an addition to our favorite local restaurant list!

Today we are taking a break from skiing and will be taking our cultural day. A much-needed storm is due to hit tonight and tomorrow, so more fresh snow to finish off this first session.

- Matt
 
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Photos from the 10th and 11th of August.......

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Bob (left) and John, heading off from the Ibis Concepcion Hotel, ready to start our adventure.


20190810_143346.jpgPicking up the rest of the crew, Billy and Louise. CCP airport is being expanded and turned into an international airport. Great news for tourism for the region.


20190810_173919.jpgMotoneta 3 restaurant. Awesome place, time to get our BBQ on.....


20190810_180624.jpgThe crew with Manuel on the left. Salut!


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Lamb, beef, chicken, sausage.... we ordered way too much! But it was really good. We only had about half of it.


20190811_114329.jpgA little break in the storm. Time for a couple of laps to warmup the legs.


20190811_161149.jpgAvi training. Billy in the final stage of his rescue, bracketing.


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Another awesome meal at Oliva's restaurant. Steak, Roquefort sauce, vegetables, a lo pobre (potatoes with caramelized onion and a fried egg on top).

- Matt
 
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12th August - fresh pow and bluebird. Game on! Nevados de Chillan delivers the goods.....

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A little out of sequence, this shot should have been at the end. Our lines down in the Tres Marias area.


20190812_102048.jpgStarting the day with a little volcano fart.... welcome to Nevados de Chillan John!


20190812_111942 (2).jpgOur third run of the day. Awesome skiing above the Otto chair.


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20190812_111946.jpgLouise in deep


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20190812_112000.jpgJohn with the shot of the day.


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20190812_112018.jpgBob finding some room


20190812_131602.jpgTime for Tres Marias


20190812_132608.jpgDropping in at the start of a long off-piste run. This was about 7km's.


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Great day!

- Matt
 
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August 13th, skinning up from the Otto chair, high above the Pirigallo Valley

20190813_110058.jpgVolcanoes gotta vent! Bob checking to see if his marshmellows are ready....


20190813_114117.jpgFirst time skinning for a couple of the crew. Looking great team!


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20190813_122456.jpgLouise enjoying the views of the Las Trancas Valley.


20190813_122537.jpgReady to drop into our first line of the day.


20190813_144806.jpgSecond lap. Great views of the Volcan Nevados de Chillan


20190813_152911.jpgThe snow is settling quickly, still great skiing.


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Louise enjoying some nice turns. A great day of learning and backcountry skiing.

- Matt
 
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August 14th - Skinning towards the Volcan Nevados de Chillan

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Finding a nice sheltered spot out of the wind for some lunch


20190814_131940.jpgSkiing one of many wind-buffed faces, on the way down upper Tres Marias


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20190814_135355.jpgThe Refugio Gargantua del Diablo


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20190814_142346.jpgInside the Refugio, always a little disconcerting to see warnings about mice and Hanta virus....


20190814_142604.jpgSpot the Pugski sticker. I think that was @segbrown from last season.


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Nice standalone shot of the Refugio.


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Final pitch and then back into the resort. Cerveza o'clock.
 
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August 15th - Skinning up the Volcan Nevados de Chillan and finally getting the views of the Upper Andes and Argentina

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Our target, one of the lower peaks of the volcano. We skinned up through the gully and then ended up coming down to the left of the central peak.




20190815_142645.jpgSkinning around the backside of the volcano, with the active Volcan Nuevo in the background.


20190815_142708.jpgOur first views into Argentina and the higher Andes


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A big day of touring deserves a big meal. Taking on a Tomahawk steak at a new steakhouse, just down the road to our accommodation. I think we'll be back! (Vegetables not pictured to preserve caveman effect of photo....)

- Matt
 
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On the 16th August we headed off the mountain for our cultural day. We drove to Chillan and then not far from there down some dirt roads, we came to the Santa Berta winery. Susannah, our lovely English-speaking host, gave us our own private tour around the production facility, the grounds and then to the tasting room where we tried several wines, accompanied by a tasty cheese platter (please keep me away from that….). Next, we headed to San Carlos to meet with chef David at his charcuterie to try some of his meats and produce. Then we had a gourmet, multi-course meal at his restaurant, Casona Violeta’s. The food was amazing and we had way too much to eat. The photos show what we had to eat. Finally, we finished off the day with a quick walk and shop at the Chillan markets. This had been another awesome cultural day and much fine food and wine had been consumed. I slept well that night.

The next day, the weather started to change and the clouds rolled in. John decided to take the day off and Billy only stayed out for a couple of runs. The winds were quite high and it was borderline snowing and raining. The Otto chair was closed down so we had to stick to the Nono t-bar. We tried some skiing in the lower Freeride Zone but the snow wasn’t so great, so I had a technique afternoon with Bob and Louise, after lunch. We started with a quick rundown of efficient ski technique and then worked on some stance/balance drills, a progression on lateral balance with some rotary work thrown in. There was some solid progression with the drills that I ran the guys though. It turned out to be a positive day after all.

On the 18th it was supposed to clear up and be a nice bluebird day with fresh snow, but the winds were still ripping. It had gotten colder overnight, but the wind had compacted a lot of the upper snow and there was a lot of new wind-loading. The sidecountry looked dicey. I took John, Bob and Louise (Billy went heli-skiing) for a lap down Tres Marias. We had to traverse across from the top of the Otto chair to the lower cat track that cuts past the Mirador chair, which is pretty easy to do. We skied the skier’s left side of the Tres Marias run and it was untouched and skiing well. In the gullies, the snow was nice and soft. We ended up skiing two really nice laps.

After lunch, it looked like the winds were starting to drop and I was thinking we might take a look at the bowls high above the Otto chair but I was still feeling very uneasy about them with all the wind-loading that was happening and I was getting that feeling that going OB would be a bad idea. Then when we got to near the top of the Otto chair, I saw that a decent-sized hard-slab avalanche had ripped from a wind-loaded pillow, near the top of Otto down into the Freeride Zone, inbounds. They had also closed access to the top of the Freeride Zone and backcountry. My Spidey-sense was right, good call. That was it for the day, we took a run down lower, away from any loaded zones and then headed to the bar for an apres-ski drink or two. Sadly, Bob had to leave that evening so I helped organize his transfer back to Concepcion.

The 19th was a bonus half-day of skiing before we had to head back to Concepcion. Billy stayed back at the accommodation so it was just Louise, John and I. It was pretty overcast and the winds were still up. The sidecountry was still a no-go, so we stayed inbounds and went trying to find some hidden pockets of snow. Everything was wind-packed but there was a few nice soft-pockets around. We found a nice little lap that had an untouched face, then a really steep face and then down onto the fast groomers. I did some situational teaching with a focus on steeps and some jump turns. We did 3 laps working on technique, with a quick break after the first lap to get rid of our backpacks.

By the third lap, the guys had really improved and were making fluid, linked-jump turns on some pretty steep pitches. Then Otto shut down so we finished with a few laps on the Nono t-bar. The snow on the groomers was really nice, so we finished with some GS turns. We were picked up at 2pm and then had 2 hours to get packed and ready to leave. Juan came for us at 4pm and we drove to Concepcion. We stopped in Chillan to say goodbye to Francisco and then headed to Lenga for some fresh seafood. We had a nice meal and then headed back to the Ibis. The crew left the next day, that was a wrap for session 1.

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The Santa Berta winery, just outside of Chillan


20190816_122459.jpgThe tasting room


20190816_122949.jpgSusana talking about the Cabernet Sauvignon


20190816_132534.jpgSuccessful tasting


20190816_144743.jpgOn to the charcuterie to meet chef David and try some meats


20190816_153207.jpgDeli meats, empanadas on the left, sopapilla's, plus pisco sours to drink


20190816_160338.jpgMain course, slow-cooked beef, sausage and potatoes and some salad


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20190816_160448.jpgCheers! Or salut, as they say in Chile....


20190816_172058.jpgDavid in front of his 200 year old oven, his pride and joy.


20190816_172257.jpgCasona Violeta, the bomb-diggety,as Billy would say.


20190816_182049.jpgChillan markets


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Cute puppy shot!

- Matt
 
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Footage from the 13th August. In this clip we had hiked 25 minutes above the ski area into the sidecountry above the Pirigallo Valley. This was our second run for the day. I had to tiptoe through some rocks and then the bowl opened up infront of me, with a perfect fall-line, I could go really go for it. The snow was soft but not as deep as the day before, due to settlement in the warming temps and slightly higher wind.


- Matt
 
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Session 2

I had a couple of days to chill out in Concepcion before the start of the second session on the 22nd August. This was going to be a different kind of trip, the group had signed up to do a skier improvement session with me, something I had not run before. I had people coming in from the US and Australia for this group; Dave and Brian from LA who had done this trip before, but were usually on their snowboards and then John and his partner Melissa from Perth, WA, my old home. John had done a trip to Gulmarg with me before but Mel I had not skied with before. Mel was going to ski with Manuel and I would work with John, Dave and Brian.

Unfortunately, Dave’s flight out of Dallas to Santiago had had to turn around due to engine failure, so he was delayed a day, so I was just picking up John, Mel and Brian on the 22nd. They arrived as scheduled, with all their luggage and we headed up to the mountain, with a quick stop at the mall and then a nice lunch at Motoneta 3 again. Yum! It was nice not having to fit in an indoor avi safety presentation, we could relax a little and let the group settle in.

On the 23rd, we had a warm-up day and a ski around to show John some of the terrain. We worked on a little bit of technique (mostly edging drills) to help get a little more ski performance. That evening, as the guys were all on fat skis, we went across the road and hired some narrower-waisted skis so had more suitable equipment for working on the groomers. Dave arrived that night and we had the whole group together, now the proper learning could begin.

My goal was to take the group through a comprehensive progression to not only improve their skills and ability, but most importantly, their understanding of efficient skiing and the movements required. It had started with a theory paper I had written about the 4 skills concept that I had forwarded to the group well-before the start of the trip. Once they understood what the 4 skills were (stance/balance, rotary, edging and pressure control) then we could work through the skills in order. We had 8 days to cover all the skills and get plenty of mileage. We’d focus on working through a series of drills to improve kinesthetic awareness and get plenty of mileage to develop new muscle memory. That was the theory anyway.

I do love guiding, but I do also love to teach. I had been missing it and I was excited to go back to my roots. This was the first time I had a group that wanted to really focus in on their technique and I was keen to see how far I could take them. John was the catalyst for me putting this group together; he had come to Gulmarg the winter before and had struggled with the terrain and the deep snow. He was working way harder than he needed to and it didn’t look like so much fun. In Gulmarg it’s very hard to be able to step off the mountain and refocus on technique as there’s no groomed or easy runs to be able to change someone’s skiing. I always saw Nevados de Chillan as the perfect classroom to be able to work on technique and then challenge that in harder terrain.

Dave had grown up on skis and he had been part of a race-program at an early age, plus he even did a little ski instructing, but I had never seen him ski. Brian, I knew little about. He’s a busy guy and a little hard to track down when it comes to ascertain someone’s skiing background. So, we did have 3 different levels within the group, but with a small group like this and somewhat of a set progression, I felt it would still work. So, back to what happened on the snow.

On the 24th, it was a nice day and we started on our progression. Phase 1, was to discover an efficient stance and focus on fore-aft balance. We had to discuss the basic position and finding an initial, centered stance, feeling the whole of the bottom of the foot when straight running. Then we played around with what it feels to be out of balance to the rear and to the front and the effect it has on the skis. We discussed and played around with, ways of regaining balance when it is lost. We skied several laps with the tops of the boots undone to challenge the balance and improve feel.

On the 25th, it was time to move on to lateral balance and weight transfer onto the outside ski. We did a lot of drills: airplane turns; pole drag turns; tail taps; stork turns; the cage and then the good old Austrian torture rack….. By the end of that day, then the guys really understood lateral balance and when to transfer the weight to their new outside ski in their turns. It was a challenge at times to make the lightbulbs come on, but each person found a drill that made sense to them and a lot of progress was made.

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Lovely views from the lower chairlift at Tata Plaza


20190829_095041.jpgJohn, enjoying his surroundings after a long journey from Australia.


20190823_150305.jpgBrian, start of the run down to Tres Marias. It's a 10km long run and one of the longest in the Southern Hemisphere.


20190823_150318.jpgJohn


20190824_161945.jpgBeautiful late afternoon glow, hanging in front of the Otto chair. A storm is brewing.


20190826_130536.jpgEnjoying the markets in Chillan, sheltering from the rain.


20190826_131635.jpgThey definitely like their meat in Chile.


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20190827_103753.jpgThe sun is out so back to the skiing. Awesome views of the Volcan Nevados de Chillan behind, from the top of the Otto chair.


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Volcan Neuvo (the active one, on the left) and then Vieja, on the right.

- Matt
 
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Hey Matt, did the US Ski team arrive in Las Trancas?
Yes, along with the Norwegian and Swedish teams. They were doing Super G training above the Mirador chair, using snowmobiles to tow the athletes up high to the starting zone. They trained very early in the morning until the early afternoon.

- Matt
 
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On the 26th, a storm came in and the mountain was shut down. We spent the day down in Chillan with some shopping, lunch and a visit to the markets. On the 27th, the sun was out again and the mountain was open again, so we got back into the progression. It was a good thing to have had a day off to give the muscles and minds a chance to digest all of the previous day’s drills and theory. The next step was to really improve the understanding and ability to be able to turn the legs separate to the upper body. I also wanted to move the guys into steeper terrain and try some off-piste. We had a nice little pattern from the top of Otto, over to the top of Cornisia and then into a gully across from the Nono t-bar. The guys were skiing quite well, but there was still some upper body being used. So back to the groomers to work on improving the skill.

Again, after explaining and demonstrating how to do it, we went through a series of drills to help isolate the movement. We started with upper body isolation using the picture frame drill, then back into the cage to isolate the hips, then added in the stork turn again, before taking it all back into steeper terrain. Now the guys really understood how and why they needed to separate the upper and lower body; they just needed more mileage with it. After lunch, the snow was really soft, so I asked the guys to take off a ski and we worked on one ski skiing on the beginner run at Tio Willy’s. The guys did great at that. Unfortunately, the next day, it started storming again, so we didn’t go up to the mountain. John, Mel and Manuel went for a long drive over to the coast to check out the Ruka Antu Ecolodge and Dave and Brian stayed back to catch up on work.

On the 29th, the sun came out again but the snow was frozen up solid. We were back on our fat skis and it was definitely hard to hold an edge, so why not, edge release time! It was perfect conditions for practicing sliding. We could work on the basic position, upper/lower body separation at the same time, so furthering the development of those skills. This would help Brian and John immensely and give them that much-needed fine control over their skis. We went through diagonal sideslips, vertical sideslips, pivot slips, falling leaf and then falling leaf with a twist. That was great work. Then down lower, I taught them how to ski backwards and do 270’s and 360’s. We even tried grouping up and doing spins down the hill (the Spinning Wheel of Death). All good fun and great for developing fine control.

On the 30th, it was another nice sunny day, but the temps were low and the snow just wouldn’t soften. I had wanted to take the guys into the off-piste and maybe a little hike (we brought our avi gear), but conditions just didn’t want to improve for us, so we did a little more work on technique inbounds. This time it was trying to increase hip angulation in our turns and gain a lot more edge. We did some tug-of-war drills, both stationary and on the move. That was a great workout. Then we went for a couple of hot laps down the groomers in the Tres Marias area (10km long run). There the snow was softening up and we had some great high-speed runs. Fun times! That was our day and the end of the week for me.

On the 31st, Mel and John went skiing for the morning and I had to finish paying the bill and sorting out the rates for 2020. John and Mel came back at 2pm and decided they didn’t want to leave, so they changed their flights and extended their accommodation. Good on them! So at 4:30pm, I had to say goodbye and jump in the van to Concepcion by myself (Dave and Brian were staying on for session 3). It was an easy ride to Concepcion and the Ibis Hotel. I said goodbye to Carlos, our driver and then settled in for the night. The next day my flight to Santiago was on schedule for 3:15pm. That’s only an hour or so and then I had about 4 hours to kill in Santiago airport. There were many skiers heading back home.

My flight to Houston was easy, about 9 hours and then I had 2 hours to get to my flight to Denver. Again, no problems there, that was an easy 2.5-hour flight. Then I was home. Another great summer in Chile came to an end.

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Skiing some nice afternoon corn inbetween the old lava flows!


20190829_160254.jpgJohn showing greatly improved upper/lower body separation.


20190829_160302.jpgBrian


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Francisco, back at Cabanas los Hualles, with some fresh octopus he was going to cook up.


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Our dinner getting cooked up at the new steakhouse just down the road. This place was awesome, I hope it's there next year.


20190830_095550.jpgTeam Orange rocking it, last ski day of our trip!


20190830_104611.jpgI managed to get everyone together in this shot. Manuel and Mel are on the left, Brian and John are doing the tug-of-war drill to the right.


20190830_104622.jpgMel looking good on Mirador


20190830_104638.jpgTeam Orange working hard.


20190830_165318_001.jpgAnd that's a wrap! Session 2 is done and that's the end for me. Brian and Dave stayed on for another full session and John and Mel extended their stay for another week.


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The volcano giving us a proper send off! Thank you to everyone involved, another awesome season in Chile is in the books. We'll be back in 2020.

- Matt
 

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