Canting question

[Beartown]

Hey guys. I have a pair of Nordica Cruise 110's from maybe 3 years ago. I have a small alignment issue in my right foot, and had some canting work done (1 degree). I'm not exactly sure what was done, but I believe my native sole was planed down medial (high) to lateral (low) and lifters were placed under the native sole for a flat surface to engage the binding and protect the cant. I admit, I may not be understanding the process correctly. This year, I went to demo skis in Mammoth and was told my boots didn't pass for demo ski fitting because the lifter plates had worn down to where they wouldn't be safe in the binding. I was wondering if this makes sense, and if I could just replace the lifter plates or if something needs to be done under them (epoxy maybe?) to maintain the cant and have them ski like they have been. Here are some pictures:

As you can see, the medial aspect of the native boot sole (under the black lifter plate) has not been ground (ridges present) and the lateral aspect has been ground (ridges absent). Any ideas about what to do? Thanks!

 

[Erik Timmerman]

Just replace the plates. You will probably need some epoxy too.

 

[Philpug]

Just replace the plates. You will probably need some epoxy too.

Looks like PPS 3MM plates.

 

[Beartown]

Thanks for the tips. What would be the purpose of the epoxy? Just to hold it together?

 

[Philpug]

Thanks for the tips. What would be the purpose of the epoxy? Just to hold it together?

The wear on the heel, it will fill the gap.

 

[Beartown]

The wear on the heel, it will fill the gap.

Do you mean at the back of the heel where the native boot sole is worn? Placed between the native boot sole and the lift plate?

 

[Philpug]

Do you mean at the back of the heel where the native boot sole is worn? Placed between the native boot sole and the lift plate?

Yeah, the soles should have been replaced before the lifters got to this point.

 

[Beartown]

Yeah, the soles should have been replaced before the lifters got to this point.

Interestingly, I did buy replacement soles from Nordica before I figured out that there were lifters there, so I do have brand new soles. I'd just have to have them planed again, which is kind of expensive, so I think I'll give the epoxy a try. Nothing to lose.

 

[razie]

If you knew the angle, you could order pre-canted lifters and not grind the soles. That looks like more than 1 degree to me...

Another option is to order pre-canted 4 or 5 mm lifters and then router the tops again, instead of grinding the new bottoms.

They don't look worn as much as not to work in bindings though - I've seen worse.... you could explain to those people that the boot is supported by the brakes pad, which supports it from the middle of the plates, so the chipped area doesn't serve a big role in keeping the boot in.

The top looks a bit rounded off though, maybe that's a bigger issue? There are some metal lugs you can order to rebuild that part, or just get 5mm lifters, leave the old soles and re-router the tops to make them flat again - that would be also cheaper.

Cheers

 

[Erik Timmerman]

You should just replace the 3mm lifters with 3mm lifters. You will have to use a bit of epoxy to fill the gap. The reason you have 3mm lifters and not thicker is probably because the lugs of your boots are hollow and you can't cut them deeper than they already are.

 

[Beartown]

You should just replace the 3mm lifters with 3mm lifters. You will have to use a bit of epoxy to fill the gap. The reason you have 3mm lifters and not thicker is probably because the lugs of your boots are hollow and you can't cut them deeper than they already are.

This is true. Bootfitter at Taos told me as much. He had 5mm lifters on hand and offered to try them, but warned that he might destroy the boots if we tried.

Today I dropped off my boots at the shop that did my canting, just to get bindings put on some new skis. I mentioned the wear, and they're just fixing them for me, no charge. All's well that ends well!

 

[razie]

probably because the lugs of your boots are hollow and you can't cut them deeper than they already are.

Is this typical with rec boots? Do you know of any race boots with the same issue? Is there some generic way to recognize it, or is it a dealer/manufacturer question?

 

[Erik Timmerman]

Is this typical with rec boots? Do you know of any race boots with the same issue? Is there some generic way to recognize it, or is it a dealer/manufacturer question?

It's very common. I'd be suspect of any boot that has replaceable sole parts. I think as far as race boots go, it depends on how you define race. You certainly won't see that on a plug boot, but you could see it on the boot that is one step down like a Nordica GPX or Lange RX. I'm not saying either of those is hollow, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are.

 

[Noodler]

It's very common. I'd be suspect of any boot that has replaceable sole parts. I think as far as race boots go, it depends on how you define race. You certainly won't see that on a plug boot, but you could see it on the boot that is one step down like a Nordica GPX or Lange RX. I'm not saying either of those is hollow, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are.

Very true. My Head Raptor Overkill shells are built on the same last as the 130RS, but the lugs are not solid. You can tell by either looking in the shell with a bright light or tapping the lugs.