- Joined
- Dec 29, 2017
- Posts
- 15
So you're saying just just a file on an angle to file down the side wall? Sorry just want to make sure I'm understanding
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Can't seem to get my edges sharp enough
- Thread starter Mike Faron
- Start date
No sidewall planer is foolproof and they are definitely can be challenge to use well. Using a Panzer file (Dual Vixen is the manufacturer's name for what is otherwise known as a Panzer) at a higher edge bevel than you are aiming for, 5* if you are going for 3* for instance, and until you actually file the metal edge is far easier and just as effective, if not as sexy, as a planer.
You need to insure that your file is removing edge to the 'working' edge. Using marker will help you identify how much and where you are removing material as will a 10x loupe or magnifying glass.
You need to insure that your file is removing edge to the 'working' edge. Using marker will help you identify how much and where you are removing material as will a 10x loupe or magnifying glass.
I bought a dedicated sidewall cutter. It works great on some skis, and on others I can never seem to get it adjusted right.
I'm becoming a convert to the seven-degree panzar file method. I think a full-length one would be difficult to use in this application, though. I have a short one that probably came as part of something else that I use. (Looks similar to the one in my scraper sharpener). That's pretty easy. I've even free-handed it for short sections that were dragging.
You can tell if the sidewall is dragging by looking for colored residue on a stone used in the normal edge-sharpening way. It's a little harder if the material is white, really easy when it is bright orange.
I'm becoming a convert to the seven-degree panzar file method. I think a full-length one would be difficult to use in this application, though. I have a short one that probably came as part of something else that I use. (Looks similar to the one in my scraper sharpener). That's pretty easy. I've even free-handed it for short sections that were dragging.
You can tell if the sidewall is dragging by looking for colored residue on a stone used in the normal edge-sharpening way. It's a little harder if the material is white, really easy when it is bright orange.
Actually, Vixen file is the recognized "trade name" across a broad field of metalworking industries.
I first encountered the file type by that name in the late 60s at the local CAT implement repair shops.
The file type is very popular in aviation modification and repair activities under the same name.
All of the auto body shops I've encountered recognize the file type by "Vixen" as well.
It seems only the ski industry uses the "Panzer file" moniker. perhaps it came over from Europe.
In practice, to remove edge material, I use the file end like a chisel and peel the plastic off in large curls. It takes a certain feel for the angle, but when you get it right, it's a simple method.
(looking for a demo video)
;-)
Thanks. A day I learn something new is a good day. I've also come across a 'Strawberry' file. It had straight, diagonal teeth.
Is this a good tool? Looks easy to use.
Sidewall Cutter SWIX Pro Planer TA103
Ski snowboard wax and tuning tools with video instructional help for the do-it-yourself tuner.www.racewax.com
NO! It's difficult to adjust the cutter so it hits the sidewall properly. I have this thing and regret buying it. What was the engineer who designed this thing thinking? The cheaper version looks more adjustable.
Definitely startup costs to an "easy" ski tuning DIY set up.
lathe file!
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2017
- Posts
- 15
So basically my best bet is to get a panzer file and use the short end (the end that's about an inch in length) at an angle like a chisel to "pull off" the side wall? or is there a guide I can buy and use to do this? Do they have a file like that in Home Depot I can get ASAP to do it?
You can buy a 7 degree side edge guide (built just like the 2 or 3 degree guide for sharpening). That is essentially what the tool Jacques recommends is. SVST makes a 6 degree guide. They also make a 3 degree shim, which would turn a 3 degree guide into 6.
Or, since the exact angle is not critical, you can jury-rig a shim to put under your file to turn your 3-degree tool into a more-or-less 7 degree tool.
Or this one goes to 6 degrees and comes with a short file:
https://www.slidewright.com/tools4boards-xact-3-in-1-ski--snowboard-base--side-edge-tool.php
I wouldn't use it for edges, but I would for sidewall.
I haven't tried hardware-store files. I suspect, but don't know, that they would be fine since it is not a precision job.
I wouldn't recommend free-handing till you have a better feel for it.
Or, since the exact angle is not critical, you can jury-rig a shim to put under your file to turn your 3-degree tool into a more-or-less 7 degree tool.
Or this one goes to 6 degrees and comes with a short file:
https://www.slidewright.com/tools4boards-xact-3-in-1-ski--snowboard-base--side-edge-tool.php
I wouldn't use it for edges, but I would for sidewall.
I haven't tried hardware-store files. I suspect, but don't know, that they would be fine since it is not a precision job.
I wouldn't recommend free-handing till you have a better feel for it.
I've got this. It's got a learning curve. If I were going to do it again, I'd go the 7° with a panzar file route. I use this thing, but with sidewalls other than plain sandwich it'll tend to skip unless you are really really patient and just ease into it slowly. Less potential for screwups with the panzar file method.Is this a good tool? Looks easy to use.
Sidewall Cutter SWIX Pro Planer TA103
Ski snowboard wax and tuning tools with video instructional help for the do-it-yourself tuner.
Is this a good tool? Looks easy to use.
Sidewall Cutter SWIX Pro Planer TA103
Ski snowboard wax and tuning tools with video instructional help for the do-it-yourself tuner.
I have this same Swix TA103 sidewall cutter, which I mistakenly ordered. It's very fussy as you can't set the cutting depth and location for the particular ski and get to work. The blade is just in a fixed location and depth. You have to modulate your pressure and the blade alignment as you go the length of the ski to take off the right amount of material and also get right up to the metal edge. I intended to get the TA101N, which seems to be more adjustable and cheaper to boot.
In a pinch you can do that, but I've seen a pair of SGs that have gouges the length of the sidewall from poor execution of that method. I wouldn't recommend it.
Getting a 3* shim to add to your existing tool is the best way to use a panzer/vixen as you would a normal file, just working the sidewall, not the edge.
We use our old belt edger at +2 or +3 degrees in the shop I work at. It is pretty much foolproof; we don't use sidewall planers because of the difficulty to get smooth, effective sidewalls on a wide range of ski sidewall shapes and materials. If we didn't have the belt edger, I'd use a panzer and a file guide.
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I had the red Swix posted above and regret buying it too.
Since I’m going to be doing my own tuning for a long time, I bought this one, but it is pricey. I’m sure I got mine on sale though. It has all the adjustment you need to do a great job.
www.racewax.com
Since I’m going to be doing my own tuning for a long time, I bought this one, but it is pricey. I’m sure I got mine on sale though. It has all the adjustment you need to do a great job.
Swix Sidewall Cutter Planer World Cup TA104
Ski snowboard wax and tuning tools with video instructional help for the do-it-yourself tuner.
www.racewax.com
Princess Auto sells the files relatively cheap. Bought 2, so I can cut them into short usable length for ski work.
www.princessauto.com
and
www.princessauto.com
Remember this is CDN$ so it’s about 30% less in US$.
Quality is ok, but for the price.
14 in. 12 TPI Curved Tooth File Blade | Princess Auto
14 in. 12 TPI Curved Tooth File Blade
www.princessauto.com
and
14 in. 9 TPI Curved Tooth File Blade | Princess Auto
14 in. 9 TPI Curved Tooth File Blade
www.princessauto.com
Remember this is CDN$ so it’s about 30% less in US$.
Quality is ok, but for the price.
Exactly.
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2017
- Posts
- 15
Hey everyone, I just wanted to update everyone. I know it's been a month but I ended up buying the Swix TA101 economy sidewall cutter. It worked pretty well. You have to apply a lot of pressure to really scrape the wall off and the planer gets hung up if you don't. I was just careful to set it correctly. the first run i nicked the top of the edge a little but I smoothed it out and it was fine. Picture attached.
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
The shot is a bit blurry, but it sure looks like you went too deep with the skyver cut. There's a bit of an "art" to adjusting the tool to cut only what you need from above the edge WITHOUT eating into the main part of the sidewall. You shouldn't have a "groove" of missing sidewall material running down the length of the ski.
I thought that groove came from the factory. I've had it on many of my skis.
Interesting. I have never purchased a new pair of skis that had a deep groove in the sidewall above the edge running the length of the ski. I'm talking about a true groove where the bottom of the groove is close to infringing upon the core. Sidewall material usually isn't all that thick, so a factory groove doesn't make much sense to me.
P.S. And don't confuse "groove" with the flashing that is normally above the edge that we're cutting back to have clearance to file the edge. I know you know you're stuff when it comes to tuning, so I don't think we have confusion there.
