Binding Remount Hole Spacing minimum

[morevert]

I want to remount different bindings on a Kastle TX ski. The new hole positions with Boot centered on ski will be barely a Hole dia. away from existing holes. This is a foam core ski without metal top layer. What is the general rule for new hole spacing from existing binding holes? My only option probably is to shift Boot of ski center & hopefully not enough to even tell the difference.
There has to be another thread with similar question, but find one.

 

[anders_nor]

What binding is on, what are you switching to?

 

[morevert]

Binding model isn't going to matter. They all need to secure the same load

 

[PinnacleJim]

Sounds too close to me. Hopefully someone with experience will chime in.

 

[Ogg]

Binding model isn't going to matter. They all need to secure the same load

I think he's asking because some bindings have a lot more adjustment than others. You also didn't specify if it's the heel or toe that is close. If it's the heel it shouldn't be a problem to move it but I'm assuming it's the toe.

 

[GregK]

The golden rule is 1cm/10mm between the center of old and new holes or about 6mm between the outside diameter of the old and new holes. Could maybe go a few mm closer if you had metal underfoot.

 

[cantunamunch]

Could maybe go a few mm closer if you had metal underfoot.

Filling the original holes with steel wool/epoxy mix helps.

 

[anders_nor]

I think he's asking because some bindings have a lot more adjustment than others. You also didn't specify if it's the heel or toe that is close. If it's the heel it shouldn't be a problem to move it but I'm assuming it's the toe.

correct

 

[Philpug]

The golden rule is 1cm/10mm between the center of old and new holes or about 6mm between the outside diameter of the old and new holes. Could maybe go a few mm closer if you had metal underfoot.

More of a guideling than a rule I have been very close on some remounts, much depends on the ski construction and if it is a load bearing screw.

 

[crgildart]

Epoxy and wooden dowels for wood core skis.. The steel wool and epoxy for other construction. Drilling and keeping the bit from wandering is the issue more than if it will hold later if the old holes are properly filled.

 

[GregK]

More of a guideling than a rule I have been very close on some remounts, much depends on the ski construction and if it is a load bearing screw.

The golden guideline then! Lol
Remember seeing a strength test done on how close you can go and there was noticeable drop off in pull out strength difference below 7mm off center and below.

 

[Noodler]

Filling the original holes with steel wool/epoxy mix helps.

If I have no way to avoid a new hole being within 10mm of an old hole (edge to edge), then I like using wooden plugs epoxied into the old holes. I feel the wood provides better support to the old hole to avoid potential problems with the new mount.

What exactly is the idea behind the use of the steel wool with what you suggested?

 

[cantunamunch]

What exactly is the idea behind the use of the steel wool with what you suggested?

Better tearout and crumbling resistance especially if the new hole has a partial overlap with the old one. Most especially if you are using a >5min cure epoxy and aren't waiting 24h between filling and new drilling. Also higher strength if any voids are likely (air bubbles during medium-liquid epoxy fill; settling of extremely liquid resin; or paste epoxy with inadequate punch-down). On foam-core nordic skis I also epoxy into the *new* holes and flip the mounted ski/binding upside down during cure - because voids and because settling.

 

[Noodler]

Better tearout and crumbling resistance especially if the new hole has a partial overlap with the old one. Most especially if you are using a >5min cure epoxy and aren't waiting 24h between filling and new drilling. Also higher strength if any voids are likely (air bubbles during medium-liquid epoxy fill; settling of extremely liquid resin; or paste epoxy with inadequate punch-down). On foam-core nordic skis I also epoxy into the *new* holes and flip the mounted ski/binding upside down during cure - because voids and because settling.

Thanks. So what exactly is the process? Is the steel wool crumbled into steel dust first? I don't think I've ever seen info on how this is done.

 

[cantunamunch]

Thanks. So what exactly is the process? Is the steel wool crumbled into steel dust first? I don't think I've ever seen info on how this is done.

Nah, just pick a bunch of filaments out of a 0000 pad, pack them into the hole like packing a wound, heat up your epoxy syringe so the resin's a bit runnier, and inject it into the hole. You can use a steel punch to press it all down, if you like.

 

[Dave Marshak]

The general rule is 3 diameters. The screws are 3 mm, so 10 mm is fine. I like to fill the old holes with bathtub caulk to keep the moisture out, but most guys use plastic plugs. I’m happy if the the 2 screws closest to the center of the ski are solid even if the others are sketchy, but a shop will want the right clearance on all of them.

dm

 

[Doug Briggs]

wood or plastic plugs in the old holes with waterproof glue or epoxy. I'd use helicoils for the new holes. I have more traditional construction skis with overlapping holes from 3 or 4 mounts. Non-overlapping with a helicoil is bomber.

You could also double the spacing by moving the binding 3mm off center. Modern race skis come with plates with 1 cm predrilled holes. They are up to 5 mm off of center depending on the BSL you are mounting on the bindings for. They manage.


These are DPS Lotus 138s


Atomic Bent Chetllers

Granted these skis are foam core but I don't think either have a metal mounting plate. I ski these skis hard and have not problems with screw retention.