binding position

[armed&dangerous]

Thanks, I am now armed and dangerous! with this information I will redo the mount 20mm back. This works out great as the track will still cover the holes so it won't look crappy. The people I got them from said they will give me 50 bucks towards the remount or take them back. Ill remount them myself and pocket the cash. Life is good.

 

[Eleeski]

Wait! Ski the ski before you drill anything. And do the edges as well. The recommended settings are not perfect for everybody. You might like the skis as mounted.

Eric

 

[François Pugh]

Wait! Ski the ski before you drill anything. And do the edges as well. The recommended settings are not perfect for everybody. You might like the skis as mounted.

Eric

This thread has too easy a solution.
This ought to complicate things up a bit. http://lous.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/nordicareport.pdf

 

[Doug Briggs]

Wait! Ski the ski before you drill anything. And do the edges as well. The recommended settings are not perfect for everybody. You might like the skis as mounted.

Eric

From the OP:

When the binding is set for the correct sole length the center mark on the boot is 25mm forward of the mark on the ski. Even moving the binding all the way to the rear of its travel the centerline is forward by about 5mm.

Moving it to where it belongs will still allow him a very large range forward and back of the BC (boot center) mark. As they are mounted the best he can get is 5mm forward of center.

Thanks, I am now armed and dangerous! with this information I will redo the mount 20mm back. This works out great as the track will still cover the holes so it won't look crappy. The people I got them from said they will give me 50 bucks towards the remount or take them back. Ill remount them myself and pocket the cash. Life is good.

Why 20 mm when according to your original post they appear to be off 25 mm?

 

[armed&dangerous]

The distance is approximate. I took the bindings off one ski and measured with templates. It looks to be around 20mm or so. I can get an exact measurement but I don't think it matters much, Put on template, drill holes mount bindings, go skiing. The idea was what Eleeski said, moving the binding, which will take all of about 10 minutes on my milling machine, would allow me to go forward and back with a greater range. I wish Eleeski did not send that link. That level of technicality is way beyond my scope. I'm 66 years old and pretty much suck at skiing anyway, so a few mm will not matter all that much. It just pissed me off that the lines didn't line up. Now I am way overthinking this and my head is going to explode. Poof.

 

[Doug Briggs]

I understand. Mount close to the correct location and all will be good. You'll get full range of fore and aft location and you'll cover the old holes.

Good luck.

 

[Noodler]

This thread has too easy a solution.
This ought to complicate things up a bit. http://lous.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/nordicareport.pdf

Wow, pulling the Campbell Dynamic Balancer into this discussion is certainly "ballsy".

I actually got a chance to use one of these things way back at an ESA (I think either Lou or Bud H. brought it). It seems like a sound theory until you start considering what it actually does to determine the placement. There isn't a skiing "movement" that uses a "see-saw" motion, so what would putting a ski on something that is basically a see-saw going to prove? The weight balance between the fore and aft of the ski equipment is fairly irrelevant when we're sliding along a surface with most of the ski contacting the snow.