How about thoughts on dimensions and profiles for equal hard snow, ice, and moguls to help us understand why some of the suggested skis would be good for these conditions.
Width
Turning Radius
Camber (little, medium, lots)
Rocker (yes, no, maybe, front only)
Other (metal, carbon, tip/tail shape, etc.)
Some of the things that make a ski good in moguls sacrifice it’s edge grip and skis that grip ice well are usually tough to ski in bumps. You have to sacrifice performance somewhere and prioritize. Also, a comp mogul ski which is fantastic for a pro with perfect form to use is a very difficult ski for a rookie mogul skier to learn on as they usually don’t forgive mistakes in form.
Comp mogul skis are usually full camber for pop, absorption and edge grip, mid 60s mm in width so they are very quick edge to edge, longer(20m plus) turning radius as a deep sidecut would be too “catchy”, a bit of tip/tail taper to again prevent catching in the bumps and a stiff overall flex including stiff tail. Very fast and light through the zipper line of moguls but not that fun outside of a mogul field and not very forgiving. There are other dedicated mogul skis using similar shape to this but with a more forgiving flex like a Dynastar Twister/K2 244 that would be more accessible for less experienced mogul skis but again, limited in versatility outside of the mogul field. Perfect quiver skis but not One Ski Quiver skis.
Most of the all mountain skis listed are somewhat similar in shape to a mogul ski but wider for more versatility, with some tip/tail rocker and slightly shorter turning radius to make the more user friendly outside of the mogul field.
One of the biggest factors for ease in learning to ski mogul skiers is a ski with a forgiving tail flex. Getting “bucked into the backseat” because you don’t have your body centered and balanced with your legs absorbing is very common while learning bumps and a super still ski tail compounds this. A softer tail lets you get away with more learning errors in balance.
In a true mogul ski, a med-long turning radius and tip/tail taper prevents catching and that’s what most of current All Mountain type skis mentioned earlier in the thread also have which makes them great in bumps. A carving ski with it’s shorter turning radius, wide tip with no taper and the “snow scrapper” flared tail makes for fantastic grip on ice but makes them grabby in bumps and off trail. So tapered skis like the Brahma gives up some ice grip compared to a carving ski but are easier to ski in bumps and off trail.
Rocker makes it easier to pivot in bumps, so a bit of tip/tail rocker makes things easier especially if there’s lots of heavy crud amongst the bumps.
As far as metal/carbon etc goes, it’s really about what the skiers weight/ability etc are and what ski size they are choosing. For example, the Blizzard Bushwacker(non metal Brahma) is a fantastic bump ski due to its shape, light weight and flex but if the skier is heavier, that “forgiving flex for 160 pounds” might be a noodle on the sane for 220 pounds. That’s why for the OP, if they like the 174cm size of their current skis, a metal 173cm Brahma would be a better ski than a 173cm Bushwacker.
So forgiving(but not a noodle) tail flex, some tip/tail taper, bit of tip/tail rocker, medium turning radius and the appropriate stiffness/length for your weight/ability and you have a fun, accessible bump ski that’s going to be decent on groomers, great in bumps and even off trail. Btw-most of these all mountain skis are in the 80-90mm range but if you take wider skis with the same characteristics, they will also be fun in bumps too! They are just a bit more work but I LOVE my Enforcer 104s in bumps.
Long post but hope someone learned something! Lol