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Uncle-A

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Most people recommend a 10 inch double cut file, I like to use a 12 inch double cut file because it is just a slight bit flexible and you can get a half to one degree base bevel at the same time you are doing the bottom of the edges. Then all you have left to do is the side edge angle.
 

Doug Briggs

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Most people recommend a 10 inch double cut file, I like to use a 12 inch double cut file because it is just a slight bit flexible and you can get a half to one degree base bevel at the same time you are doing the bottom of the edges. Then all you have left to do is the side edge angle.
Most people want a single specific base bevel. Trying to get a consistent base bevel by flexing the file will be just that, trying. Before we had guides, sure, bending the file was about as good as it got.

I'd recommend investing in a base bevel tool. Some are adjustable, some are fixed. More important than the actual accuracy within a tenth of a degree or so (using an adjustable, instead of a fixed guide) is getting the bevel consistent and reproducible from tip to tail each time you set the bevel. Plus after you've set the bevel with any guide you can follow up with stones at the same bevel with the same guide rather than 'free handing' it.

Unless
you have some flexible 12" stones to match the bending file. ;)
 

Scruffy

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That is all you need. In fact if you don't have the sidewall trimmer, you can get away without it for a year or so if you skis are new.
However I must admit, it became so much easier when I got a ski vise.

Sidewall trimmers are cheap, why not get one. The sidewall can really affect your filing.
 

Doug Briggs

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Sidewall trimmers are cheap, why not get one. The sidewall can really affect your filing.

One reason not to get a sidewall planer is they can be exceedingly difficult to use and get the desired results. It is one tool to DEFINITELY use on test skis first. Setting the depth, angle, type of blade, etc. is different for every ski depending on the sidewall characteristics and material of each ski. We use a GrindRite belt edger set a couple degrees higher than the edge bevel in the shop. Fast, easy and pretty much guaranteed NOT to ruin the sidewall. An at home solution that I like 1000 times better than a sidewall planer is using a panzer in a file guide that is a few degrees more than the edge bevel you are going to set.
 

François Pugh

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If your file or your stones do not touch the sidewall while filing, then your good, otherwise you need one. On most new skis he sidewall is far enough back that the files don't touch for quite a while, but they eventually do. Cheap? Not here. Up hear they cost more than two cases of beer:eek:.
 

Scruffy

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Home tuners tend to be perfectionists, but you can do a pretty good job with an incomplete set of tools:
  • one dedicated edge guide at your preferred angle (recommend 3 degrees).
  • a spring clamp.
  • a coarse diamond stone for touch ups and to remove impact-hardened rock hits before filing
  • a fine file
  • a fine diamond stone
  • a way to pull back sidewall that keeps tools off the edge [buy a tool or MacGiver something]
More tools are always better, but that is enough.
If you want to fix base damage, you can get by with ptex candles but soldering iron is better. Then add big box cutter (disposable razor knife) and metal scraper to flatten patches.

Assume you already have waxing tools.

This

Pretty frustrating trying to do a decent job without a bench and a ski vise. These are often the biggest hurdles, especially for people with limited space.

and this.

The handful of tools mdf mentioned are really not that expensive. Go for it, you'll be happy you did. The vise is paramount. I see you said you had one, good. Make a dedicated bench if necessary, again, small investment for not only saving money on tunes, but knowing you can tune at will, and keep your skis in shape. There's also something to be said about being independent. And, the zen of tuning ( I'd rather tune than wax ), and skiing the product of your work.
 

Doug Briggs

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If your file or your stones do not touch the sidewall while filing, then your good, otherwise you need one. On most new skis he sidewall is far enough back that the files don't touch for quite a while, but they eventually do. Cheap? Not here. Up hear they cost more than two cases of beer:eek:.

That really depends on the ski and the type of sidewall they use. Some are sloped from the top of the edge back to the topsheet. Others are more traditional and are a lip of plastic that is essentially an extension of the edge. Others are sloped a little then become a vertical sidewall.
 
Last edited:

James

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Yeah every ski I’ve ever had needed the sidewalk pulled. Not planing sidewall can lead to huge frustration in tuning.
 

oldschoolskier

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To be truthful, I don’t use a sidewall planer or back bevel my setups (though I like this idea better than planing).

I treat it as part of the exercise and it limits your cuts on the edge on each pass.....longer edge life. As to reduced file life, come on, file right the files last. Part of this is to use file caulk, the second is not to cut in the wrong direction as this wears out (destroys) the teeth on the file. Cut, lift, reset, repeat. Remember LIFT before RESET, don’t drag back!!!

Remember, just a 0.001 or two needs removing to sharpen, not 0.020 or more like some do. Generally I take about 0.003-5 off (because I don’t practice enough to get away with less) and touch up with a diamond to clean up
 

KingGrump

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Probably the most cost effective way to do side wall is with a panzer file and a file guide. Shim between the file and usual guide on the outboard side with a emery board (nails). Clamp the entire assembly with a spring clamp and you are good to go. Not enough angle. Add another piece of emery board.

You can get panzer file cheap by buying a CPO Swix plastic scraper sharpener from Amazon for $11.20. Just put the panzer file back when you are waxing. Two bird with one stone.
 

James

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Probably the most cost effective way to do side wall is with a panzer file and a file guide. Shim between the file and usual guide on the outboard side with a emery board (nails). Clamp the entire assembly with a spring clamp and you are good to go. Not enough angle. Add another piece of emery board.

You can get panzer file cheap by buying a CPO Swix plastic scraper sharpener from Amazon for $11.20. Just put the panzer file back when you are waxing. Two bird with one stone.
Good idea. That’s a “refurbished” Swix scraper sharpener. Lol. Whatever that means.
Thought it was cheap, normally near $20.
 

Wilhelmson

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Good advice but OP is better off starting with a good shop tune at the beginning of the season and then maintaining the edges with a couple diamond stones and maybe a second cut file. IMO there's no need to bother with the sidewall at this stage in the game when the shop can do it.

By next season he'll be ready for a 3 page discussion on panzer files, base guides, etc.
 

mdf

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Good advice but OP is better off starting with a good shop tune at the beginning of the season and then maintaining the edges with a couple diamond stones and maybe a second cut file.

Yep, that is why I did not recommend a coarse file to start.
 

Doug Briggs

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Good advice but OP is better off starting with a good shop tune at the beginning of the season and then maintaining the edges with a couple diamond stones and maybe a second cut file. IMO there's no need to bother with the sidewall at this stage in the game when the shop can do it.

By next season he'll be ready for a 3 page discussion on panzer files, base guides, etc.

I agree.

But the caliber of the shop matters. Not all shops will pull back the sidewall by default. You need to be sure to the sidewalls will be planed/pulled back by asking. Another thing that might occur is that the bevels the shop puts on don't match the tools the OP purchases/uses.

Vision is one of the most important 'tools' when tuning. Make sure that your tools are actually doing the work you expect. I use magnifying glasses to check that bevels are being worked/set on the 'working' part of the edge; where the base edge meets the side edge. Going through the motions of tuning won't make a difference to the actual tune if your tools provide a 2.1* bevel and your shop set a 1.9* bevel until have worked the 1.9* bevel to a 2.1* bevel. It is easy to see, with good vision or vision enhancement (magnification) when the tool is getting the job done vs when it is just window dressing.
 

EricG

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Uncle-A

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Jacques

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jmills115

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At some point you need to file side edges. Stones can't do it all. You should get a 7 degree guide and a panzar file to prepare the sides for filing.
The link I posted are for the 4” files. Thinking I have been using stones the same size for the past few seasons so moving to files may have been easier.
 

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