Base Scrape/Gouge Question - Craigslist Purchase

[oswaldr2]

I was on Craigslist tonight and found a pair of Salomon QST 106 w/ Salomon STH WTR 13 bindings mounted exactly to my BSL/Mondo length for $350. So I panicked and bought them within 3 hours of them being posted....lol

Skis are literally like new, the guy probably only skied them 5 times. Except for one fairly decent blemish which I knew about from his listing (see photos).

Wanted to get your guys opinion on these before I take them to the shop. I’m not really super concerned about the color pattern, base is blue and orange. Seems pretty impossible to match that back up? I really just want them to get fixed right even if the color is an issue.

Do any resident subject matter experts think a repair is possible? Or should I try and dump them to break even on my money back?

 

[jmeb]

If that's a scar, I'm a freakin' zombie.

Seriously -- not much to worry about. I'd frankly scrape off any protruding bits with a sharp edge (utility knife, metal scraper, etc), touch up the base edge with a quick light file or rough diamond stone, a few passes with gummi stone, drop some wax into that and ski the crap out of it. From what I can see it's not even deserving of PTEXing yet.

It's not deep enough to worry about on a ski like the QST 106. Maybe if you were on a race ski etc. At the end of the season if it has a few more partners, get a tune (or at least base grind plus base bevel), and it'll be good as new.

If you don't own those tools yet -- good time to invest for modest touch ups like this.

 

[mdf]

^^ I agree.

 

[oswaldr2]

If that's a scar, I'm a freakin' zombie.

Seriously -- not much to worry about. I'd frankly scrape off any protruding bits with a sharp edge (utility knife, metal scraper, etc), touch up the base edge with a quick light file or rough diamond stone, a few passes with gummi stone, drop some wax into that and ski the crap out of it. From what I can see it's not even deserving of PTEXing yet.

It's not deep enough to worry about on a ski like the QST 106. Maybe if you were on a race ski etc. At the end of the season if it has a few more partners, get a tune (or at least base grind plus base bevel), and it'll be good as new.

If you don't own those tools yet -- good time to invest for modest touch ups like this.

I was a little concerned because of a couple white spots I could see through the blue base that seemed to possibly be the core. Hard to probably see in the photos. But sounds like I'm making a bigger deal out of it.

I've blown out an edge on an old pair of skis, so I understand the when it's actual functionality that becomes an issue. I realize that this is more cosmetic and aesthetic but just wanted to be sure.

 

[Philpug]

trash them, buy new skis.

 

[mdf]

I was a little concerned because of a couple white spots I could see through the blue base that seemed to possibly be the core. Hard to probably see in the photos.

I suppose that is possible, but I colored ptex often looks white when it gets scuffed up. If they are that deep, they should be fixed, but it would be a pretty small job for a competent shop. (Or you, if you want to invest in tools.) Seems unlikely to be a core shot, though.

 

[DanoT]

Those skis are toast but I will take them off your hands for the $350 you paid and ....er I will just turn them into fence posts or something.

 

[coskigirl]

Even if it’s a core shot it’s a minor one and easily repaired.

 

[KingGrump]

If the white spots are on the bottom of the scratch. It is probably the core. Get them fixed.
If they are to the side. That usually just mean the ptex just turned color when abused. Then do what jmeb said.

 

[oswaldr2]

Those skis are toast but I will take them off your hands for the $350 you paid and ....er I will just turn them into fence posts or something.

Haha, was waiting for this reply!

 

[oswaldr2]

So next question, since I know there are Denver locals on here. How do you guys feel about the work that Evo Denver does for repairs?

I took my soon to be rock skis (2008 Mythic Riders) in to have the bindings tested (some old PX 14's) and have them adjusted to my new boot. I bring them home and go to pop my boot in them and they were clearly not adjusted to my boot. Maybe somebody else had some XT 130's in the shop that were like a 25.5 or something. An easy fix obviously, but they aren't off to a great start in my book considering adjusting the boot has to be the simplest task.

 

[Philpug]

So next question, since I know there are Denver locals on here. How do you guys feel about the work that Evo Denver does for repairs?

I took my soon to be rock skis (2008 Mythic Riders) in to have the bindings tested (some old PX 14's) and have them adjusted to my new boot. I bring them home and go to pop my boot in them and they were clearly not adjusted to my boot. Maybe somebody else had some XT 130's in the shop that were like a 25.5 or something. An easy fix obviously, but they aren't off to a great start in my book considering adjusting the boot has to be the simplest task.

Bring them up to @Doug Briggs in Breckenridge, he will make them better than new.

Double check that PX14 that the heel is all the way open, it is prone to sit half way making it tough to get in. Push the heel down against the ski, then step in. I have seen it more than once. This is one of the reasons they evolved this heel to the newer SPX and changed the hinge point a bit, making it easier to get in.

 

[jmeb]

So next question, since I know there are Denver locals on here. How do you guys feel about the work that Evo Denver does for repairs?

I took my soon to be rock skis (2008 Mythic Riders) in to have the bindings tested (some old PX 14's) and have them adjusted to my new boot. I bring them home and go to pop my boot in them and they were clearly not adjusted to my boot. Maybe somebody else had some XT 130's in the shop that were like a 25.5 or something. An easy fix obviously, but they aren't off to a great start in my book considering adjusting the boot has to be the simplest task.

They still employ former edgeworks folks who I've always had success with. Good repair techs. Sounds like a simple mistake. Just last week they hooked me up with some hard to find binding screws gratis.

Or you just pitch the skis. I'm in Denver and will happily pick up. Or buy your son a simple tool kit for skis, come over to the gear shed and I'll teach him the basics.

 

[jmeb]

I've also had the problem with the px heel @Philpug notes

 

[oswaldr2]

Bring them up to @Doug Briggs in Breckenridge, he will make them better than new.

Double check that PX14 that the heel is all the way open, it is prone to sit half way making it tough to get in. Push the heel down against the ski, then step in. I have seen it more than once. This is one of the reasons they evolved this heel to the newer SPX and changed the hinge point a bit, making it easier to get in.

Okay I'll look into the heel a little more before I take them back.....Sounds like it could be more user error than anything Evo did. I was noticing an issue with the heel lever going past parallel with the ski to where it can basically touch the base of the ski.

 

[PTskier]

The shop will have something like this:
http://www.tognar.com/skimender-rp360-base-repair-pistol-kit-120-volt/

 

[crgildart]

Looks deep enough to take a ptex fill to me..

 

[Doug Briggs]

I've only taken a quick look with my phone at your pictures. If they are in fact core shots, the ought to be repaired. Gouges along the edge put the edge at risk and ought to be filled. None of this is urgent, but waxing them before they are repaired makes performing a good repair harder to do.

 

[DanoT]

The shop will have something like this:
http://www.tognar.com/skimender-rp360-base-repair-pistol-kit-120-volt/

A friend who once owned a ski shop mostly used a drip P-Tex candle because it sticks better than the slightly different gun P-Tex. Same goes for the guys at Falline Tuning at Sun Peaks--they like the drip candle better than the gun.

I wonder what other Pugski ski tuners think about the P-Tex gun and their use?

 

[Wade]

A friend who once owned a ski shop mostly used a drip P-Tex candle because it sticks better than the slightly different gun P-Tex. Same goes for the guys at Falline Tuning at Sun Peaks--they like the drip candle better than the gun.

I wonder what other Pugski ski tuners think about the P-Tex gun and their use?

I’ve used candles and guns. Neither are great.

In my opinion, far and away the best way to perform a base repair is by base welding.