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Northern Rockies/Alberta Banff-Lake Louise
+1 on the Fairmont Chateau in LL (it really is an exceptional location, setting and building) and if you can swing it....splurge for a lakeside room - well worth it. Even if you aren't staying there try to go on a "rest day" from skiing... for the high tea, a drink/snack/hang out in the Lakeview Lounge. Go walk around the lake...go ice skating or snowshoe or cross country ski around the lake or get a horse drawn carriage ride around the lake....go for drink at the outdoor ice bar etc. There is a free public parking lot just down from the Chateau so you don't have to pay for that. Bring your own gear or rent from the hotel...
At the other end of the spectrum, the hostel in LL is probably one of the nicest hostels around and they have some private rooms including private bathroom. Also other hotels in-between that range. The restaurants in the chateau are nice..some more spendy than others (ie: Fairview Room) but food and service is very very good. (in general good service...especially "white linen" service is difficult to get in Alberta) The restaurant in the Deer Lodge (just down the hill from the Chateau is also excellent. The duck there is my favorite...The Post is also a good hotel and the bar/lounge there is nice for après drink and eats...
Banff - plenty to see and do and accommodations in all ranges. On the upper end Fairmont Banff Springs is nice (prefer the Chateau LL tho)...Also have several hostels in town as well. Tons of hotels in-between. Stop in at the Park Distillery for exceptional cocktails and food (they are a local craft distillery...with tours too..). We went there for an evening out during last year's "Great White North Pugski Gathering" Great mixologists... Try the espresso vodka martini and my favorite: the "Observation Peak" (they fire char a cedar plank and place it over the over drink to infuse the cocktail - killer! For a traditional pub experience try the Rose and Crown or St. James Gate both longtime Banff institutions...
Both LL and SS got hit with about 9" of snow last couple days and have opened more terrain up - still early season but shaping up nicely.
Here's some beta/info about SS and LL: (Keep in mind first week in Dec is still early season so crowds are going to be less and some areas may not be fully open)
Logistics:
Try to get your tix and rental if needed before hand. If you are in Banff there are locations to get tix (ski big 3)…and rentals etc.
There are buses to both LL and SS from Banff.
If you are driving and want to avoid crowds:
LL: Get there early (by 8:00 or so) so you can park close to the lodge is. Parking lots are right across/adjacent to ski hill. Lifts spin at 9:00 (although sometimes they will open a bit early)
SS: You have to take a 20 min gondola ride up to the ski hill so make sure you have everything with you as it’s a bit of a pain to come back down to your car. Or gear up at the car...or you can gear up in the second floor area by customer service in the Creekside building (up the stairs next to the gondola loading platform) ..and then put gear back in car and head up the gondola. Or take your gear up the gondola to the main baselodge area and gear up there.
In main/peak season -on weekends if going to sunshine by car you definitely want to get there early…ie: ideally in parking lot by 8:00-8:15 am as you want to be somewhat close to the front or middle area where you will load the gondola. (If you want to be in the very front row plan on being there by 7:30). Having the buses run ppl from Banff this year may change the parking dynamic so this is based on previous year's experience so YMMV..
Gear up:
Lake Louise:
You can boot up in any of the 2 lodges. Whiskyjack (WJ) is lodge on left as you come in from parking lot…Lodge of 10 peaks is lodge on your right side….(fancy high ceiling/big stone wood burning fireplace) There is an area with racks where you can leave your gear (at your own risk) in the WJ lodge…to your immediate left as you enter the WJ lodge.
Sunshine: you can gear up at the main lodge …there is the same type of free rack storage at the main lodge area.
Food:
TIP both Sunshine and LL have microwaves/hot water dispensers in the day lodges so its easy to bring your own lunch and save $$.
Lake Louise:
Last year LL was promoting a new $7 lunch menu at the cafeterias…it was pretty good - hopefully it'll be back this season
Frontside: will be busier in both daylodges but you'll find a place.
OR go to the Whitehorn bistro is ½ up on front side of mountain is a great place to eat lunch if you are OK with spending a bit…great food! TIP: phone that morning and make a reservation for lunch…but be there on time as they only hold your table for 10 min.
Backside:Temple lodge which is the only lodge on the back side of the hill is a good place to eat lunch. Avoid the 12-1:00 pm time. Go early or later. Eat upstairs it’s generally quieter.
Sunshine:
You can eat at either the main daylodge or at goatseye. More selection at the main lodge. You can also eat/grab breaky/après etc. at the gondola base in Creekside as well.
Ski advice:
Both SS and LL have free tours of the mountain usually twice a day…once in the morning and once after lunch. Look for the “Ski Friends/snow hosts/free tours” Ask at the ticket windows or guest services…it may also be mentioned on the trail map. It lists that info on each hills website too. They are grouped according to ability. Highly recommended! You are welcome to go to both am and pm sessions.
Lake Louise:
On weekends the front side will be busy. Backside less so. Obviously you’ll want to ski the parts of the hill that has the best conditions...but in general to avoid crowds ski the backside first then move to the front. If you are on the front and you want to stay frontside for the morning then I'd ski the higher chairs (Top of the World) and avoid coming down to the base and the crowds.
Front side:
Grizzly gully/gulch is the run under the top of the world chair (T.O.W) …it will be busy and compressed since it’s in a gully…it can get really skied off so be aware. It can be fun if there is no one there and the snow is good. The sides/slopes of this gully area are great IF there is enough snow cover and they haven't been skied off. Coverage was pretty good a week ago and with the new snow i think they are definitely worth doing just be aware this is still early season and there are a few "surprises" under there. While riding the top of the world chair near the top look to your right. All that area is great and will funnel down to the bottom of the TOW chair - just dont go lower than the blue #50 Lower flight run or you'll have to go to the base.)
Summit platter/poma style lift might be challenging unless you area competent black skier (very steep and can be icy…and I’m talking about the lift line/pull going up…not the runs) If so then take the summit platter lift and hit those runs/lap the lift -but not if it's crappy vis or windy and then popover from the top and hit the backside runs.
Gondola…take it and get a great view of the area…especially if it’s a clear day. Lots of run choice for all abilities off top
Backside:
Paradise bowl…give it a try it before you try the platter. If you are ok there then you’ll be fine on the platter. This area is generally single and double blacks. It can be a bit moguly but if there is fresh snow then they will be easier. It’s a bit intimidating for some riding that chair…but it’s kind of cool to see it….and it looks worse from the chair than it actually is. Great view from the top of the chair as well. The main drop into that bowl is not super steep. There are adjacent runs (L and R) that funnel into that bowl that are more challenging/steeper. (fenceline/swedes/cornice/big 7 etc.
Ptarmigan: lots of tree runs of varying steepness.
Larch: some great blue runs: Wolverine/Larch/ if there's enuf snow do Rock Garden for fun.
Sunshine:
If it’s really crowded…. You can ski Goatseye in morning then come back to the main lodge area in afternoon. (This is opposite of what everyone does so you’ll have fewer crowds but doing this is condition dependent) Goats eye has some of the tougher terrain so it’ll depend on your legs/ability.
Main area:
Strawberry has short runs but good for warmups and green/blue skiers...just be careful as you near the base area (even if you are coming from the high mountain chairs down to the base area too.) there are several high traffic/compression areas where people funneled in and it can get crowded.
Runs of Standish are fun if there is good snow (short but worth it). Standish is also great chair if you'd like to try some challenging runs but don't want them to be too long as there are a few short but steep/tight runs. (Look the right as you ride the chair near the bottom and you'll see them). Big and little bunkers can be great/mellower too.
Wawa: is also worth doing if it has not been skied off…lots of shorter blue/black runs.
Divide Express chair: If it's clear and not windy head up and see the view from top. Depending on ability pick your run: skiers right -north divide or center/center left- south divide...far left hits Bye Bye Bowl which is great..just watch the flat spots (keep some speed up or work your way skiers right) near the bottom so you don't end up having to pole/skate/ski out.
Lots of challenging runs off Angel and Teepee Chairs areas are worth doing but watch the wind as it can get cold up there. Teepee is a heated bubble chair with heated seats so it’s worth doing just to day you’ve been on it.
Goats eye area: My fave, lots of doubles there. Can get wind scoured and rocky up there. Hell's kitchen: medium to tight trees and depending on line choice -steep. Freefall: hard or easier lines-steep. Any of the South Side chutes are great - steepish at around 50 degrees ish at some entrances but mellowing to 40-30 degrees depending on the run...but with great run outs (if you are in the south chutes look skiers left at the other mountain side- at Delirium Dive: Great double black runs. need avy beacon/gear/partner for access. steep. some high consequence terrain - dependent on area/line choice. Access to easiest bowl/entrance via descending metal stairs is hinky...There are handholds/rails but you do feel exposed on that knife ridge...makes the rest feel "easy"!
FYI: SS has lots of “flat spots” if you have boarders you’ll need to watch ppl around you to so if they are “pinning it”…..it’s likely cause they know there are some flattiies coming up.
Enjoy!
At the other end of the spectrum, the hostel in LL is probably one of the nicest hostels around and they have some private rooms including private bathroom. Also other hotels in-between that range. The restaurants in the chateau are nice..some more spendy than others (ie: Fairview Room) but food and service is very very good. (in general good service...especially "white linen" service is difficult to get in Alberta) The restaurant in the Deer Lodge (just down the hill from the Chateau is also excellent. The duck there is my favorite...The Post is also a good hotel and the bar/lounge there is nice for après drink and eats...
Banff - plenty to see and do and accommodations in all ranges. On the upper end Fairmont Banff Springs is nice (prefer the Chateau LL tho)...Also have several hostels in town as well. Tons of hotels in-between. Stop in at the Park Distillery for exceptional cocktails and food (they are a local craft distillery...with tours too..). We went there for an evening out during last year's "Great White North Pugski Gathering" Great mixologists... Try the espresso vodka martini and my favorite: the "Observation Peak" (they fire char a cedar plank and place it over the over drink to infuse the cocktail - killer! For a traditional pub experience try the Rose and Crown or St. James Gate both longtime Banff institutions...
Both LL and SS got hit with about 9" of snow last couple days and have opened more terrain up - still early season but shaping up nicely.
Here's some beta/info about SS and LL: (Keep in mind first week in Dec is still early season so crowds are going to be less and some areas may not be fully open)
Logistics:
Try to get your tix and rental if needed before hand. If you are in Banff there are locations to get tix (ski big 3)…and rentals etc.
There are buses to both LL and SS from Banff.
If you are driving and want to avoid crowds:
LL: Get there early (by 8:00 or so) so you can park close to the lodge is. Parking lots are right across/adjacent to ski hill. Lifts spin at 9:00 (although sometimes they will open a bit early)
SS: You have to take a 20 min gondola ride up to the ski hill so make sure you have everything with you as it’s a bit of a pain to come back down to your car. Or gear up at the car...or you can gear up in the second floor area by customer service in the Creekside building (up the stairs next to the gondola loading platform) ..and then put gear back in car and head up the gondola. Or take your gear up the gondola to the main baselodge area and gear up there.
In main/peak season -on weekends if going to sunshine by car you definitely want to get there early…ie: ideally in parking lot by 8:00-8:15 am as you want to be somewhat close to the front or middle area where you will load the gondola. (If you want to be in the very front row plan on being there by 7:30). Having the buses run ppl from Banff this year may change the parking dynamic so this is based on previous year's experience so YMMV..
Gear up:
Lake Louise:
You can boot up in any of the 2 lodges. Whiskyjack (WJ) is lodge on left as you come in from parking lot…Lodge of 10 peaks is lodge on your right side….(fancy high ceiling/big stone wood burning fireplace) There is an area with racks where you can leave your gear (at your own risk) in the WJ lodge…to your immediate left as you enter the WJ lodge.
Sunshine: you can gear up at the main lodge …there is the same type of free rack storage at the main lodge area.
Food:
TIP both Sunshine and LL have microwaves/hot water dispensers in the day lodges so its easy to bring your own lunch and save $$.
Lake Louise:
Last year LL was promoting a new $7 lunch menu at the cafeterias…it was pretty good - hopefully it'll be back this season
Frontside: will be busier in both daylodges but you'll find a place.
OR go to the Whitehorn bistro is ½ up on front side of mountain is a great place to eat lunch if you are OK with spending a bit…great food! TIP: phone that morning and make a reservation for lunch…but be there on time as they only hold your table for 10 min.
Backside:Temple lodge which is the only lodge on the back side of the hill is a good place to eat lunch. Avoid the 12-1:00 pm time. Go early or later. Eat upstairs it’s generally quieter.
Sunshine:
You can eat at either the main daylodge or at goatseye. More selection at the main lodge. You can also eat/grab breaky/après etc. at the gondola base in Creekside as well.
Ski advice:
Both SS and LL have free tours of the mountain usually twice a day…once in the morning and once after lunch. Look for the “Ski Friends/snow hosts/free tours” Ask at the ticket windows or guest services…it may also be mentioned on the trail map. It lists that info on each hills website too. They are grouped according to ability. Highly recommended! You are welcome to go to both am and pm sessions.
Lake Louise:
On weekends the front side will be busy. Backside less so. Obviously you’ll want to ski the parts of the hill that has the best conditions...but in general to avoid crowds ski the backside first then move to the front. If you are on the front and you want to stay frontside for the morning then I'd ski the higher chairs (Top of the World) and avoid coming down to the base and the crowds.
Front side:
Grizzly gully/gulch is the run under the top of the world chair (T.O.W) …it will be busy and compressed since it’s in a gully…it can get really skied off so be aware. It can be fun if there is no one there and the snow is good. The sides/slopes of this gully area are great IF there is enough snow cover and they haven't been skied off. Coverage was pretty good a week ago and with the new snow i think they are definitely worth doing just be aware this is still early season and there are a few "surprises" under there. While riding the top of the world chair near the top look to your right. All that area is great and will funnel down to the bottom of the TOW chair - just dont go lower than the blue #50 Lower flight run or you'll have to go to the base.)
Summit platter/poma style lift might be challenging unless you area competent black skier (very steep and can be icy…and I’m talking about the lift line/pull going up…not the runs) If so then take the summit platter lift and hit those runs/lap the lift -but not if it's crappy vis or windy and then popover from the top and hit the backside runs.
Gondola…take it and get a great view of the area…especially if it’s a clear day. Lots of run choice for all abilities off top
Backside:
Paradise bowl…give it a try it before you try the platter. If you are ok there then you’ll be fine on the platter. This area is generally single and double blacks. It can be a bit moguly but if there is fresh snow then they will be easier. It’s a bit intimidating for some riding that chair…but it’s kind of cool to see it….and it looks worse from the chair than it actually is. Great view from the top of the chair as well. The main drop into that bowl is not super steep. There are adjacent runs (L and R) that funnel into that bowl that are more challenging/steeper. (fenceline/swedes/cornice/big 7 etc.
Ptarmigan: lots of tree runs of varying steepness.
Larch: some great blue runs: Wolverine/Larch/ if there's enuf snow do Rock Garden for fun.
Sunshine:
If it’s really crowded…. You can ski Goatseye in morning then come back to the main lodge area in afternoon. (This is opposite of what everyone does so you’ll have fewer crowds but doing this is condition dependent) Goats eye has some of the tougher terrain so it’ll depend on your legs/ability.
Main area:
Strawberry has short runs but good for warmups and green/blue skiers...just be careful as you near the base area (even if you are coming from the high mountain chairs down to the base area too.) there are several high traffic/compression areas where people funneled in and it can get crowded.
Runs of Standish are fun if there is good snow (short but worth it). Standish is also great chair if you'd like to try some challenging runs but don't want them to be too long as there are a few short but steep/tight runs. (Look the right as you ride the chair near the bottom and you'll see them). Big and little bunkers can be great/mellower too.
Wawa: is also worth doing if it has not been skied off…lots of shorter blue/black runs.
Divide Express chair: If it's clear and not windy head up and see the view from top. Depending on ability pick your run: skiers right -north divide or center/center left- south divide...far left hits Bye Bye Bowl which is great..just watch the flat spots (keep some speed up or work your way skiers right) near the bottom so you don't end up having to pole/skate/ski out.
Lots of challenging runs off Angel and Teepee Chairs areas are worth doing but watch the wind as it can get cold up there. Teepee is a heated bubble chair with heated seats so it’s worth doing just to day you’ve been on it.
Goats eye area: My fave, lots of doubles there. Can get wind scoured and rocky up there. Hell's kitchen: medium to tight trees and depending on line choice -steep. Freefall: hard or easier lines-steep. Any of the South Side chutes are great - steepish at around 50 degrees ish at some entrances but mellowing to 40-30 degrees depending on the run...but with great run outs (if you are in the south chutes look skiers left at the other mountain side- at Delirium Dive: Great double black runs. need avy beacon/gear/partner for access. steep. some high consequence terrain - dependent on area/line choice. Access to easiest bowl/entrance via descending metal stairs is hinky...There are handholds/rails but you do feel exposed on that knife ridge...makes the rest feel "easy"!
FYI: SS has lots of “flat spots” if you have boarders you’ll need to watch ppl around you to so if they are “pinning it”…..it’s likely cause they know there are some flattiies coming up.
Enjoy!
Liz has stayed there. She like it! The spa is man-made though.
Thread Starter
TS
We are heading up the Revelstoke and Lake Louise shortly. How's things looking up there?
Revy is having a very good snow year, I don't know about Louise but it is not known as a powder mountain.
If you are flying into/out of Calgary then head straight thru Rogers Pass to Revy and ski Banff on the way back. If you are flying into/out of Kelowna then reverse the itinerary. This is because there are frequent road closures on Rogers Pass (east of Revelstoke) and you want the travel flexibility so you don't get caught on the wrong side of a closure and then end up missing a flight.
Thread Starter
TS
Thanks I will give a report when I get there.
Anybody been up to Lake Louise or Sunshine?
Anybody been up to Lake Louise or Sunshine?
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2015
- Posts
- 601
I was at SSV yesterday with my kids - conditions there are really good overall this season. They’ve had a lot of frequent small snowfalls, so lots of coverage. I was on Standish, Divide, Goats Eye, and Teepee mostly, and everything was soft snow. My son was in the Southside Chutes and said they were great - still lots of soft snow. He’s been in there most weeks this season and said they’re in great condition overall. My daughter was on the Shoulder and said it was similar.
Not my thing, but they also have the Wild West open as of yesterday - like the dive, you have to have avy gear & a partner, but it opens much less frequently than the dive. Accessed off of Goats Eye.
Not my thing, but they also have the Wild West open as of yesterday - like the dive, you have to have avy gear & a partner, but it opens much less frequently than the dive. Accessed off of Goats Eye.
Thread Starter
TS
Great! Thanks for the report.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2018
- Posts
- 88
Asking for a friend: she plans to be in SSV/LL/Norquay 1st wk of April, does not have Ikon or MCP, is there any lift ticket deal for LL / SSV / Norquay? Aware of SkiBig3 website, wondering if there is any promo/specials outside of SkiBig3. Thanks in advance.
Costco has discounted tickets.
For a week long trip, it might make sense to choose sunshine or louise and buy a spring pass.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2018
- Posts
- 88
Thanks Mike.
We will arrive on Sat. evening and plan to drive to Banff the following morning. Is there a Costco on the way from Calgary airport to Banff?
I have not seen spring pass info posted on skibig3 website. In past seasons, do you know when it starts and how much it costs approx?
Did you try online for costco tickets? I know Tremblant is on their website.
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2018
- Posts
- 88
Checked. Not on Costco Canada website.
In the past the spring Banff pass has started in March.
What I found out that Mt Norquay is the only resort of the Big3 that offers night skiing on Fridays and Saturdays. Good for those who arrives in the afternoon of those days! The first night shuttle from Banff to Norquay seems to be departing at about 5 pm depending on the boarding spot. The last shuttle from Norquay to Banff is scheduled at 22:30 
And the Big3 app is great to check the shuttles schedule, weather, etc.
And the Big3 app is great to check the shuttles schedule, weather, etc.
May be at Sunshine on Thurs (due to upgraded Teepee Town chair since I was last there - my only day there when I borrowed beeper from snow host and skied the Dive, and Wild West being open - friend I'm meeting at YYC has avy gear for me), although Lake Louise also possible. Staying in Banff Wed night and Revy Thurs night.
Will probably ski a few hours at Revy on Fri before heading to cat ski pickup. It's my 5th year at Mustang Powder and to add to the challenge I have not skied since 1/24 and have/had a nasty chest cold/cough for almost two weeks. And it's been in the 70s a lot of afternoons here.
Will probably ski a few hours at Revy on Fri before heading to cat ski pickup. It's my 5th year at Mustang Powder and to add to the challenge I have not skied since 1/24 and have/had a nasty chest cold/cough for almost two weeks. And it's been in the 70s a lot of afternoons here.
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