I will just leave this here...the better and smoother I become as a skier, the lower I can keep my bindings set.
We will do that, knowing that a) most people don't have a P-3 driver and b) they know their needs better than we do. When we do race skis, knowing that they'll be turned up higher, we will test skis to a Skier Type III+ with all other information being accurate (height, weight, age, BSL). Sometimes that means we can't pass a binding because the initial DIN would be below what the binding can be set for. In that case we don't pass the binding based on what it should be, but we do test the binding presuming an initial DIN setting that would be legit for a larger person. That way we all know the binding is functioning properly but we also know that the racer will adjust the DIN to a setting they consider appropriate.I have seen a shop hand a screwdriver to a guy that was over 50 and wanted his bindings higher than the chart. Seems like a good compromise to me. The chart says I'm an 8.5 so that is what I set them at. Apparently if over 50 that would put me at 7.
Incorrect forward pressure will totally make a binding behave like the DIN is set too low. Definitely double check that before touching anything else!
If only .....Much more frequently bad technique is the issue. Again a screwdriver won't fix that.
I will just leave this here...the better and smoother I become as a skier, the lower I can keep my bindings set.
Obviously, those people are using the wrong screwdriver. This one fixes all that bad technique, at least in your mind. Everyone else skis better too!Much more frequently bad technique is the issue. Again a screwdriver won't fix that.
I will just leave this here...the better and smoother I become as a skier, the lower I can keep my bindings set.
Setting your DIN above what Skier Type III+ setting would require is quite risky. Generally properly adjusted bindings release properly and don't pre-release as much as people would like to think. Often ice or snow on the boot will create a problem and should not be compensated for with a screwdriver. Much more frequently bad technique is the issue. Again a screwdriver won't fix that.
Generally properly adjusted bindings release properly and don't pre-release as much as people would like to think. Often ice or snow on the boot will create a problem and should not be compensated for with a screwdriver. Much more frequently bad technique is the issue. Again a screwdriver won't fix that.
Good advise. Since I've lost 25% of my body mass, it should take less force to keep me in the bindings.40+ lbs of weight loss is significant, especially if you were not overweight to begin with and you have mentioned some health issues in another thread. So while I can't answer your bone density question, I will suggest that at your lighter weight, you may not now be skiing as fast or as aggressively as in the past.
Imo, you should at the very least revisit the DIN Chart, plugging in your new weight to see what number comes up.
Make sure you can twist out of the toes and pop up the heels without too much aingst when running a little above the recommended setting. Pretty sure you're strong enough to do that but best to be sure.Good advise. Since I've lost 25% of my body mass, it should take less force to keep me in the bindings.
Marker internet chart for old folks at 3+puts me at 5.5, if I have guessed/remembered my boot sole length correctly. I think I'll try 7.5. No point in risking injury when extra force is not needed. 5.5 would work if I skied like an old man, instead of landing jumps in a 1.5 g turn so I can hit the jump meant for the merging trail.
If you land jumps in 1.5g turns 7.5 will not keep you in your bindingsGood advise. Since I've lost 25% of my body mass, it should take less force to keep me in the bindings.
Marker internet chart for old folks at 3+puts me at 5.5, if I have guessed/remembered my boot sole length correctly. I think I'll try 7.5. No point in risking injury when extra force is not needed. 5.5 would work if I skied like an old man, instead of landing jumps in a 1.5 g turn so I can hit the jump meant for the merging trail.
This would be way too low.Make sure you can twist out of the toes and pop up the heels without too much aingst when running a little above the recommended setting. Pretty sure you're strong enough to do that but best to be sure.
Make sure you can twist out of the toes and pop up the heels without too much aingst when running a little above the recommended setting. Pretty sure you're strong enough to do that but best to be sure.
Weird. I've never run my din higher than I could twist out of even when competing USSA Freestyle bumps. 100000% disagree with you there.This would be way too low.
Only recommending if you opt out of the recommended settings and decide to go higher. 100% agree that old folks running chart DIN don't need to worry about that. If higher, be sure your leg and knee are up to the challenge.Testing a binding by trying to twist out puts your knees at risk of injury. Been there, done that in my younger days (knee pain but not injured). Older, weaker, wiser, now.