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110 volt waxing iron in 220 volt country

Rich McP

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A) A device that uses an AC motor -- then 50Hz will run 5/6 as fast as 60 Hz (e.g. An electric can opener)
That's if it's a synchronous motor. Most electric motors (such as are in the drill you use to run your Rotobrush) are not. Their speed is determined by the input voltage and (provided it is within the design parameters) is independent of power frequency.
 

Lauren

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That's if it's a synchronous motor. Most electric motors (such as are in the drill you use to run your Rotobrush) are not. Their speed is determined by the input voltage and (provided it is within the design parameters) is independent of power frequency.

Induction (asynchronous) motors' speed is dependent on frequency, same as synchronous motors. It's calculated by:

Frequency (Hz) x 60 (seconds per minute) x 2) / # of poles on your motor

The difference being that the synchronous motor will always rotate at this speed, whereas an asynchronous motor will rotate at this speed with no load and slightly below this speed if it has a load attached to it. That being said, the voltage is important as well. Motors are rated for a certain voltage, and you should abide by that rating to not damage the motor. But the speed is independent of the voltage.

And the outlet at your seat is not 400Hz. It is 60 Hz.

That's correct.
 

Henry

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Ah...an induction motor cannot rotate at synchronous speed. If it doesn't slip, it doesn't induce field currents. A, say, 2 pole 60 hz induction motor can't rotate at 3,600 rpm. With only parasitic load it might turn close to that--windage, bearing drag, fan.

Small universal AC motors (the ones with brushes) have their speed regulated by the current in the armature and the magnetic field around the armature. This, of course, relates to voltage.

I've operated dual voltage 400v 50 hz 3 phase and 460v 60hz 3 phase motors that were built and labeled for that. Don't try it unless it is on the nameplate.

2-phase power? The generators at Niagara Falls' 1895 power station were 2-phase. It might still be in some antique buildings. (AC power is represented by a sine curve. Draw another sine curve 90° out of phase alongside the first curve and you have represented 2-phase power. 3 sine curves 120° apart represents 3-phase power.) Everything for a very long time has been single phase or 3-phase.
 

crgildart

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hbear

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As posted, 100% just buy a 220v iron.
Way easier to manage and much lighter (same weight as regular 110v iron) than dragging a giant transformer brick with you (they are heavy and you need a lot of capacity to handle the load of an iron).

I bought a 220v version of the regular iron I use here in North America and take that when we travel. Also do the same with my snow glide and picked up the 220v power supply.
 

Uncle-A

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It's a big resistor that was designed to NEVER see 220v. The thermostat is designed/placed to monitor that large thermal mass that is the iron's base. The heating element will have long ago fried before the iron gets hot enough to cycle the stat...probably.

As an interesting note, 50hz and 60hz matter also. If you have a device that was designed to work on 60hz and not on 50hz, you might well end up with a useless pile of metal and stuff if you use it in the wrong country/region. And yes, I know this for a fact.
Yes, I second this, you do have to know the difference between 50 hz and 60 hz when traveling to other countries because it is not only voltage you have to worry about.
 

Henry

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Deadscroll

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Hmm, that is a pretty damn great question actually. I am not really sure as I am not an electrician or a welder, however I think that RNZ has got a good point. I think that using a dual voltage waxing iron and a plug adapter has to work out. It has been a while since I have last waxed my skis actually, as during the last year, due to the pandemic, I was not able to get to the mountains. Oh man, I just remembered myself a situation, it happened a couple of years ago. So, a neighbor tried to use his 110 volt waxing iron despite the fact that we are living in a 220 volt country :D. He caused a massive power outage, the guy had to call for the services of gordonpowers.com.au as they are the best electricians in the area. Thankfully, the guys fixed all that mess.
 
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John Webb

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I took a German made Braun shaver to England (both 220V) from the US (120v). The label says it autosenses any voltage from 12V to 240V.
I plugged it in and it died . . Grrr
 

James

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Some Dual voltage irons below. Not sure any of them are worth it. If you’re going through the hassle of bringing an iron, might as well get a decent unit. Meaning dedicated voltage.

Clunk master-

Might go with the green one if forced. Never heard of Demon-

 

Saintsman

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I took a German made Braun shaver to England (both 220V) from the US (120v). The label says it autosenses any voltage from 12V to 240V.
I plugged it in and it died . . Grrr
I've travelled all over the place with various electric shavers and beard trimmers. Never had a problem with any UK purchased kit in the US or Canada. I did think Brazil had managed to kill one device but it came back to life in the UK.

As a kid I remember my parents had a high end stereo system they'd brought back from their time living in California (mid 70s) - they had a brick that was nearly the same size(and about 3 times the weight) that accompanied it to make it work
 

James

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The best bootdryer for travel was the Hotronic Snap Dry with 110/220 switch.
They did stop making it though.
 

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